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Adamw

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Posts posted by Adamw

  1. It is not a Link product either so not sure how the cost of an electrical connector in a UK webstore is even relevant to this forum.  It shows NZD$23 for me which doesnt seem out of this world. 

    You will possibly be able to get them cheaper from a wholesaler in smaller qty's now if you are not in a hurry, but 2 years ago when that was posted, those were very hard to find, if you did actually find a wholesaler with any stock, then you would have had to buy something like 1000 housings and a full reel of terminals.  

  2. 49 minutes ago, OnegreatGuy said:

    I believe the Ignition coil is grounded using the same ground location as the ecu, which I think may cause some issues, but my knowledge of electrical interference is very low.

    With an old school 2 wire coil the "secondary ground" is connected internally to the positive post of the coil, a "condenser" is needed to provide a path for the spark voltage that has just jumped the spark plug gap to return back to the coil.  Without a filter (or with a not working filter) then the spark voltage has to travel through the whole electrical system to get back to the coil via the ignition switch to the positive post.  Andy Wyatt explains the basic idea starting around 8:25 in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1HfbXyYzSM

    There are a couple of variations of suppressors on early toyota's, search part numbers 90980-05179 or 90980-04084 to get an idea what they look like.  They connect between the coil positive and ground, usually very close to the coil. 

     

    IpXxrZC.png

  3. You have injection mode set to sequential but the injectors in a GTR/GTX are only wired in two groups.  Inj 3 is the fuel pump relay.  Aux 3 is the low speed resistor bypass.

    Correct setup should be something like below for this car with stock wiring.

    tfd55x5.png

  4. MR2's with distributors seem to be a bit of a problem child, probably the most common car I see comms issues reported on by far. 

    From the few users I have helped with the issue I havent yet seen a common trend.  The first one I looked at closely I found his comms issues mostly occurred at idle or when coming down to idle, turning off idle ignition control solved it so I assumed the large swing in ign timing was more than the rotor phasing would allow so the spark was possibly jumping off the end of the rotor to something that had a more direct connection to the ecu. 

    The 2nd one had similar symptoms but turning off idle ignition control didnt solve it in that case. I got him to double check rotor phasing and that looked ok.  With most other common stuff like resistor spark plugs and leads etc checking out ok I asked him to look at the ignitor and how it was grounded etc, he found there was a lot of corrosion where the ignitor or bracket mounted and also found the factory noise suppressor was open circuit at the same time (possibly the bad ground fizzed the suppressor?).  He fixed both those at the same time and they solved his issue so Im not sure which one was the main culprit.

    Then the 3rd one was a bit different, it would lose coms at high load and sometimes a trigger issue would occur at the same time, we checked through most common stuff as above and couldn't find anything obvious.  I dont remember if we actually checked the suppressor in that car - or maybe he said it didnt have one.  Anyhow he wanted to change to coil on plug anyway so rather than spend more time diagnosing he just did that and both the comms issue and trigger error disappeared.  That was still using the dizzy for the trigger.

    So my first suggestion is if you have idle ign control enabled then try with idle ign off.  Check the ignitor ground and suppressor (most multimeters have a capacitor test) and confirm the other common causes such as HT leads, distributor cap/button etc.     

     

  5. Yes you can do this.  I thought I had already given you examples of how to set this up a couple of times in the past.  Attach a copy of your tune and I will set up an example.    

  6. 4 hours ago, Japtastic141 said:

    It should read bar so that’s what you are seeing in the logs. I’ll adjust it in Link to display correctly but I don’t think too important at the moment.

    You have a fuel pressure problem that you want to solve, so I wouldn't dismiss the sensor calibration straight away, especially when it is obviously out by a factor of at least 100.  The units in PC Link are Kpa, not bar.  Even if you think it is just a "decimal point" issue, you have 100X less resolution than you should have and the differential fuel pressure calculation wont work with it set as it is. 

    Where did you get the greedy calibration data from?  Most Greddy products to use proprietary calibrations and they dont normally make the data available.  If it were me I would replace it with a sensor that has known accurate data.   

  7. No, the '340 sensor as with 99.9% of all bosch NTC's definitely uses the standard bosch calibration, 2500ohms at 20°C.  

    The 0280130017 is a rare calibration, the only application I know of is a cyl head temp sensor that was only used for a couple of years in the seventies on VW engines with d-jetronic.  Air cooled cyl head and 12V pull-up, hence the unusual calibration  

      

  8. I have used that same booster with other toyota's successfully.  From memory it has a pull-up built in on the input side anyway but Im not sure why the 10K worked, but not the 1K, either should be fine and I wouldnt expect those to change the signal that the booster sees at all.  

    Unfortunately hard to diagnose without a scope connected to confirm waveforms etc.  You could possibly use the triggerscope as a tool by running a jumper wire from the tacho into trigger 1.

    Did you try larger duty cycle in the tacho settings?

  9. Your fuel pressure sensor calibration is wrong, it should be more like 350Kpa, not 3.0.  What pressure sensor and regulator do you have?  

    Whenever I find a fuel supply issue I do a quick return flow test to confirm where the issue is - something like below;

    Use a mityvac or air compressor etc to apply desired boost to the FPR reference.  Pull the return line off, hang it in a bucket/bottle.  Set the fuel pump prime time to 25sec, store, then power cycle ign.  Measure how much fuel you have in the bucket after the 25sec prime.  Multiply by 2.4 to get your approx pump flow per minute.  For petrol you want a minimum of about 600cc/min per 100HP.   

     

  10. You need to confirm fuel pressure is correct and constant.  Your MAP and Injector PW is reasonably stable when your AFR is erratic, so the variation is not coming from anything the ecu is commanding, fuel pressure would be the main external variable that can affect AFR so this needs to be confirmed first. 

     

    7 hours ago, CodySoFine said:

    I've set base timing and it has 15 degrees of timing during cranking but I have no way of checking timing while the car is running but even so the idle is so high I don't think it would be accurate anyway.

      How did you check base timing?  

  11. See if this document helps:  https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/mx_series/FAQ_Sensors_MXx12_StradaSpieIcone_100_eng.pdf

    Connection is described on page 3, and software set up on page 10 & 11.  

    Another doc with slightly more detail of software setup:  https://www.aimsports.com/webinars/Documents/FAQ_RS3_Fuel_level_101_eng.pdf

     

    If anything is not clear to you after following these documents then reply here and I will try to give more specific help.

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