Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Take a look at recent Hondas, many civics and S2000 etc have a coil that I think is just a little longer than the 350z. The only other longer ones I can think of are some VAG - I think 1.8t. Unfortunately many of the vag ones aren't highly reliable.
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Hi Serkan,
The hardware block error is usually an internal fault such as a failing solder joint. The ECU will likely need to come back to us for repair. Please send a message to tech support via http://www.linkecu.com/contact/ for info on the return process.
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Sounds like a winner then...
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Hi Scifisubi,
I've checked over the schematics and your proposed wiring looks fine. If you have the revision 1.2 bottom board you will also have Ign 7 & 8 on the expansion connector that you could use for the boost control.
I think one problem with your proposed setup will be the mix of the V1 crank trigger pattern combined with the V10/11 cam pattern will not work. I dont know these engines well but is it a possibility to change the crank trigger to the matching V10/11 style.
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Thats odd, it works perfectly fine for me without doing anything special. I just selected all cells, ctrl-C, then ctrl-V into top left cell of excel. Same worked in notepad.
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I probably cant answer this but so someone else can, can you give us a bit more info. What is your ecu, and what engine. I looked through your post history but couldnt find the "prior post" you mention.
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Further to Scott's comments, I still highly suspect triggering is most of your problem. A couple more comments: After shifting the throttle linkage you will need to re-calibrate the TP sensor. I would suggest you dont mess around with cold start maps yet, the defaults are usually close enough to run most enines. Start by making changes to just the Master fuel setting until it runs ok warm.
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Yes, that would probably be the cleanest way to do this. You could also do it using an Aux out set up as GP output and combine that together with a virtual aux to cover the extra condition.
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We have this problem before when using ECUM*****.
Always display "This device is not able to work with US Windows version!"
At that time we use laptops bought in Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, all fail.
It takes several weeks to connect ECU to laptop.Our problem is not firmware upgrade when installing ECUM*****.
ECU isnt able to connect to laptop via USB port.
Always display "This device is not able to work with US Windows version!"
This is a different and un-related problem. EMU lock their ECU's to the windows region where the ECU was originally purchased - for instance if you buy from Poland it will only work with Polish windows. Link do not do this and any ECU should be compatible with any windows region or language. My statement about region was really just to tease Dave in to "thinking outside the square" since it was starting to look like it isn't an access problem to me.
I think you have now proven there is no access problem so I hope EngineeringDave has some other ideas.
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I'm running methanol injection on my engine so I currently have the MAP limit mode set to "Ignition" since I figure if I use fuel cut, with the methanol keeps flowing the engine may experience a dangerously lean condition.
How would the fuel keep flowing if the injectors are turned off? What sort of engine do you have and are the injectors in the ports in a fairly normal position?
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some cruise switches use two wires and each switch position outputs a different resistance across the two wires
Yes, thats what I was referring to as "multiplex" above, I think that is the right term to describe this type of device?. Sometimes called MUX switches. But I dont think that is the case here, some online pics of this switch set:
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The problem is that you don't have read/write access to that folder.
Did you copy the Link G4 folder and paste it to C:\?
Dave, It almost seems like this access denied error message is bogus and perhaps not a good indication of the root cause. If the OP can install (& uninstall) PC Link then you would assume he must have write access to C:\Link G4. Could it be something seemingly unrelated like for instance windows regional/language settings that are preventing this file from being named a certain way or not allowing certain characters etc? Does that firmware file "tempqw" normally have no extension on it as shown in the error message?
Andi, another quick test you could try that might confirm if there really is any write access problem; Make a blank/empty notepad file on your desktop, name it tempqw.txt. Next, right click on it, select rename then delete the ".txt" so now you just have a blank file called "tempqw" with no extension. Copy this and try pasting it into C:\Link G4\firmware. If it pastes ok with no error message than that at least confirms your access is ok and might be another clue. Delete that file after this test.
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Are you sure that switch has only two wires? The few pics I found online show 5 wires.
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Pieter,
One other thing I just noticed that might be some of your hot start problem...
Your trigger scope posted earlier only shows about 0.16V. I dont know if that scope was taken with a hot or cold engine but reluctor type sensors will usually output less voltage with increasing temperature. The minimum value that PC Link will accept for trigger arming is 0.2V. That means the ECU will ignore any signal below 0.2V so your set up is pretty boarderline.
Typically you set arming threshold to 1/3 to 1/2 of the normal trigger output voltage. So for reliable triggering you really want your trigger output voltage to be higher - at least above 0.2V, but closer to 0.4V would be ideal. I would try reducing the sensor air gap a little and do another triggerscope.
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Andi, sorry I have no further ideas. Hopefully link techs have seen this one before and will have a solution. I don't have an old G4 to try myself.
I suggest you use the "contact us" page to send a support request with a link to this thread for the fastest response. Its Sunday here in NZ right now so Simon will be back tomorrow morning.
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The PC shows the ECU is connected,
What do you mean by this statement? Do you mean you see it in windows device manager or somewhere else? Does this car perhaps have a motorsport dash like AIM?/Racepak/Motec etc?
May this be caused by software version or would VTS told me so?
Its been a long time since I used the VTS software but I'm fairly sure it used to give a error message if firmware was too old? The Link Techs might have to confirm that when they are back on Monday. You can also try putting connection mode to manual and hit F3 key to connect.
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For cruise control, you need a minimum of 3 switches/buttons: Cruise enable, cruise set & brake pedal. A further 2 switches are optional; Cruise cancel and cruise resume. You will also need a driven wheel speed connected and working. Can you confirm you have 2 spare digital inputs + a working brake switch and wheel speed?
It seems odd that your switch has only two wires unless it is some type of multiplex, does it look like below?
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What Windows version should be used? 7, 8, 10? 32 or 64 bit?
If I had a choice I would probably say Win 7 would be the most reliable to try first - I cant remember if I have ever used it on win 10 but since the G4 software hasnt been updated since 2014, its drivers may not be well tested in win 10.
""Re-install latest version"
http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink V4.10.2.1784 Setup.exe
Is it the latest version?
Yes.
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Ok, Even though you say you have tried different locations already, all of your screen shots above are showing the same wrong directory so I want to confirm if you get the same error message when the normal directory is used.. So one last suggestion...
Uninstall PC Link. Delete any related folders/files that the uninstall does not remove. Delete whole C:\Link G4 directory. Delete whole C:\Program files\Link G4 directory. (if you have maps or datalogs saved in these then make a copy somewhere first).
Re-install latest version in default C:\Link G4 directory. Try firmware update again and if it fails please post a screen shot of the error.
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Normally PCLink is installed in location C:\Link G4. It appears from the error message you have installed in a non-standard location? C:\program files\Link G4\PCLink G4...? Have you tried it installed in default location?
Below is the default install:
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Im not sure if this is your only problem, since I havent personally seen this problem before, but the error messages in your screenshots suggest it may be a windows privilege issue.
Is the windows user logged in with full Administration rights? If you have admin rights then the only other suggestion I can make would be to start PCLink using the "Run as Administrator" command: To do this, right click on the PCLink desktop icon, then choose "Run as Administrator" from the context menu. Try the firmware update again. If the update succeeds and you get to the "power cycle ECU" message then I suggest you not only turn ignition off but also completely unplug ecu connector (or disconnect battery) for a few seconds.
P.S. it also might be a good idea to turn off any antivirus before starting update.
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With this configuration I cannot get anything to display on the Racepak. Another side note is that when the dash is connected to the CAN wiring I lose communication with the Xseries wideband that is currently running on the CAN system.
AEM uses a bit rate of 500Kbit/s, the Dash uses 1Mbit/s, you cannot have different bit rate devices on the same CAN bus. You will have to run these on separate buses provided your ECU has two.
Try it again without the AEM connected.
ViPEC v44 Trigger Calibration
in ViPEC V Series
Posted · Edited by Adamw
If you have the ignition timing locked to 10degrees like the image above, then you must adjust the offset number until your timing light shows spark is occurring at 10 deg. If you think it is about 180deg out then try adding or subtracting 180 from the offset number initially. Once you have the offset set correctly so that the engine is idling at 10deg, try revving the engine while watching the mark with a timing light to check that timing does not drift. If it does move with rpm then you adjust the delay number until it is stationary. Most of the time about 50 or 75 microseconds is about right