Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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What model is the car & tacho? Have you tried changing tacho duty cycle already? - if not try it at 25% & 75% to see if that helps.
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But are you sure im suppose to check it on the leading and not the trailing spark? The oem is at 20 degree after Tdc
The Leading spark is the important one that does 95% of the work, all the commanded timing tables in the ECU refer to Leading so it easiest to use leading for setting the offset. You can check trailing as well though if you like: With your split table is set at 15°, lock timing to -5°. Adjust offset so that timing light on #1 leading reads 5ADTC, then put timing light on #1 trailing, you should now see 20ATDC.
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You can use any of the pins you have mentioned above. If there is no wire in those positions then you can either go to your local "u-pull-it", "pick-a-part", etc and take a couple from some other '90s toyota, or you can buy the bare terminals and make your own. The terminal is a sumitomo 040: https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/109_110/products_id/1784?osCsid=bnpq8ed9ptu2nj24lf1d8fblr1
Fuel pump speed control, purge solenoid and AC clutch are other aux's that you may not need and might be able to re-purpose.
Note depending on how old your PNP is, it might also have an aux out available on the second expansion connector, see this post: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/1964-supra-plug-and-play-ecu/&do=findComment&comment=39067
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If you are talking about the video gauge adapter then yes, it works with the G4. It looks like it uses the "generic dash" CAN stream which is common between the G4 & G4+. You will need the link CANPCB cable to access the CAN connector on your PnP.
It's also been posted on facebook so it must be true...
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Hi Ken,
Have you double checked that your timing mark is actually correct? Even though the timing light should have been on leading #1 as Scott has suggested, I think that would only have made 15° difference and you have much more error than that. The only logical explanation that I can come up with for what you are observing is that the timing mark must be wrong? I don't know all variations of these engines well but I do know on some you can get the pulley fitted 90° out. A quick test is to remove the centre bolt so you can see the eccentric shaft keyway underneath, that should pointing "West" or "9 o'clock" when #1 is at TDC.
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Possibly bigger battery cables, bigger battery or a LiFE battery might help?
If spare trigger wheels/flywheels were available and not too expensive, another thing I would try would be grinding off an extra 1 or 2 teeth to make it 36-3 or 36-4. My logic here is with a bigger differentiation between the normal teeth and the gap it should help the ECU detect the gap.
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Although it would be possible to do this, it would be much easier to invest in an ecu that can do it natively. The trouble with piggy backing the OEM ecu is keeping the original ECU happy and error free once you have taken ignition and injection control away from it. I have never done it myself but I can foresee many hours of trail and error will be involved and unless you have all the right test gear and experience it will probably end up in tears.
There used to be a external Ethrottle module availible to allow the G4 Strom to do ethrottle directly but those are obsolete now. If you found one of those it would make things easier - Dealer Brad Burnett mentioned he had some in this thread a couple of days ago: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6493-sti-v4-plugin-and-e-throttle/&do=findComment&comment=46454
The other options would be convert to a cable throttle or an standalone DBW controller such as:
https://ozmoengineering.com/product/standalone-dbw-2tb-controller/
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You dont need to delete anything, the ecu should just overwrite the oldest data should the memory get full.
Try this: With engine running and logging conditions met, hit F12 to open up the runtimes window, go to the ecu status tab and take a look at the "ecu logging" status, that should give you some clues.
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One for traction control. On DBW cars like mine, it would also be awesome to use one of the 3 DBW tables as an overlay with referencing slip to control it even better using spark, and throttle
I havent played with many turbo cars to speak from experience but I have heard a few very experienced tuners say on a reasonably powerful turbo car, using DBW for slip control doesnt work well. I suspect because you have to close the throttle a long way to get a relatively small torque reduction it becomes a big lazy control loop. I know some that have incorporated popping open the BOV (usually with CO2) to get a quick torque reduction.
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Integrale8V, One suggestion is to try your trigger 2 on rising edge since its falling edge clashes with the gap on trigger 1. Also, I know you have already stated that you tried playing with arming voltages, but im curious if you tried something like the screen shot below;
The reason I ask is I think with the way you have the arming voltage set up now @ 0.2V, that little hump that you have in the middle of the "gap" looks like it is high enough to potentially arm and cause a false tooth. Maybe a long shot, but worth trying just to eliminate that.
Expanding on Simon's comments, why is the cranking speed so variable on this engine - is it highly modified or perhaps bad battery/starter/wiring? This engine I am not familiar with but some similar jetskis I have played with crank much higher - like 300RPM. I have found 36-2 is usually quite immune to cranking issues so I would have thought it should work ok with the right settings.
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Does the Link G4 Storm have provision for adjusting crankpin offset, or does it just assume that a twin cylinder two stroke would have crankpins at 180 degrees which is the normal arrangement.
Can I call my engine a twin cylinder two stroke with zero crankpin offset and running in sequential mode I would then have a separate ignition output for each cylinder and a separate injector output for each cylinder.
John
John,
The link does have the capability to set "custom TDC's". I have never used this function so I dont know for sure if it will like us commanding 2 cylinders to fire at the same time, but screenshot below is how I think it should be set up. Scott might be nice enough to run that setup on his sim to confirm it behaves as expected, otherwise you can just try it and see. Set engine as 2 stroke, 2cyl, injection mode to sequential, ignition mode to direct spark, rest of config as below;
If the above method doesnt work there are a couple of other ways you could do it. One is setting it up as a single cylinder as you have suggested above and driving both coils and both injectors from the Cyl #1 drivers. Another way you could do it is set it up as a 4cyl, 2 strokke, coil & injector for cyl #1 goes to ECU #1 drivers, coil & injector for cylinder #2 goes to ECU #4 drivers. Drivers 2&3 dont get connected.
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There was a hint dropped on the forum by the Link techs a couple of days ago that suggested a new external Ethrottle controller was in the works. Maybe this was what they were proposing to you?
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Yes gauge art make a Link compatible vga adapter.
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I reckon you have a faulty injector or 3. EGT #4 goes colder in most of the areas that is showing lean. #5 & 6 are not as bad but also suspect. The pic below I think gives the biggest clue. In this screenshot, RPM, MAP, and pulsewidths are constant, nearly flat lines, yet look at the lambda, it pegs from full rich to full lean twice in a matter of seconds. There are a few scenarios that could explain this but I think most likely those lean humps are where an injector(s) doesnt open. Although I agree with Dobson that your injectors are working outside there linear range, you still have funny things going on even at higher pulsewidths so I feel there is more to it than just "too big" injectors.
Edit: I just had another thought... Maybe try swapping injectors 1,2,3 over with 4,5,6, then if egt's 1,2,3 run cold I think that would confirm an injector issue. If the problem remains on the same cylinders then you could have a bad connection somewhere.
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I was just going to say upload your map too... You definitely have something very odd going on. Some of it looks like it might be caused by a hole in your fuel map because commanded PW is very short near the misfires but there are also a few other confusing clues.
I have a couple of questions too;
What is your lambda device? - it seems to "bottom out" around 0.72. which is a very odd rich limit. How much confidence do you have that the logged lambda values are realistic?
In your other log the IAT is reading 5°C at 300KPa MAP which seems optimistic. Obviously this is not part of the problem, but is there an explanation for this? Ice intercooler?
What injectors do you have?
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John, thanks for confirming. I'm fairly certain in this case my suggestion from last night will work for you; Set engine type to 2 stroke, set injection mode to sequential. You will then have fully programmable injector timing (every 360deg), you wont need to mess with trigger offset and/or shifting the trigger wheel and you wont need the cam sensor. The only thing you will need to be careful of is don't use fuel cut for any engine limiters as you could possibly get a situation where it cuts one injection event (which would be half your fuel so you could get a lean cycle), if you use ignition cut instead it should be fine.
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I havent thought this through in great detail and dont fully understand what John is trying to achieve - but I think John might be able to get what he wants (sequential timed injection, but 2 squirts per cycle, no cam sensor), by setting engine type to "2 stroke" or even rotary?
I also have some experience with injector timing which I will share later when I have a bit more time...
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Adam has given a really good summary of the differences. One thing I want to mention is that the G4+ Xtreme, G4+ Fury, and G4+ Thunder have DBW (E-throttle) controllers onboard, but the G4+ Storm ECUs do not.
Scott
Scott, I thought that was the case but what tripped me up here is if I open the G4+ Storm black base map all the ethrottle settings are visible and all the relevant inputs outputs appear to be assigned like there is a controller. Are they only there for an external controller? Do you guys even make an external controller anymore?
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Ok, there are big differences between the G4 storm and the new black G4+ storm. Here are some I remember;
- Old has 34pin connector, new has 2 x 34pin connectors, so a lot more inputs/ouputs.
- Old has 4inj and 4 ignition drivers, new has 8 of each (and any unused can be used as aux outs).
- Old has 3 or 4 analog inputs, new has 8.
- Old has 2 digital inputs, new has 8.
- Old was quite limited with 12 table allocations, new has 20.
- New has DBW built in.
- New has Knock control built in.
- New has configurable CAN and can take CAN inputs.
- New has Modelled fuel equation (i'm pretty sure old G4 didn't).
- New has much better logging.
- New has much more flexibility with virtual aux's etc.
- New will still see new features added, software improvements and bug fixes, etc.
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Yes, the Atom has CAN - it is on the main connector.
No, Innovate reliability hasnt improved.
Also what is the difference between the closed loop and open loop boost controllers? I thought that because it uses a solenoid to control the boost it can keep the wastegate shut until boost level is achieved so it makes full spool quicker.
The difference between open and closed loop is closed loop uses "feedback" and open loop doesnt. In the case of boost control the feedback would be a MAP or boost pressure sensor, so basically in closed loop when the controller see's no boost it keeps the wastegate shut, once boost increases to near the set point the the controller uses the solenoid to adjust the wastegate and control boost to the setpoint. With open loop there is no pressure sensor feedback - the controller just pulses the solenoid at a pre-programed duty cycle regardless of what the boost is doing.
Both strategies can work well when set up/tuned correctly and will control boost fine and give similar "spool up" speed. Closed loop will generally give a more consistent boost level especially in situations where environment is variable - altitude, temperature, etc but can also take more tuning time to get it right.
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Post number 3 confuses me but all the other OP's posts here refer to the G4 and not G4+. The OP would get a better answer if he could confirm which ECU models he is trying to compare. Old G4 with new G4+? Old G4 with Old G4+? Old G4+ with new G4+?
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Also your wire looks too big and the crimp doesn't look right. These superseal connectors are pretty fussy and need a round crimp (rather than a "B" crimp) on the insulation ears otherwise they wont go in.
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Anyway back to my question I am planning on buying an Innovate SCG-1 for it so I can monitor my AFR and have closed loop boost control and the SCG-1 seems to kill 2 birds with 1 stone at a very affordable price. I'm not very switched on when it comes to engine management systems so you will have to bear with me.
Note the SCG-1 is only an open loop controller - the atom can already do open loop control so no advantage using the SCG-1. Also my experience with innovate widebands is not good - I would strongly urge you to look at other options. After you have replaced the sensor many times you will wish you went for a better brand... A CAN based wideband would be good for you as it wont use any of your precious analog inputs. Link do a CAN wideband controller and the AEM X-series work well too.
What are the 2 Digital Inputs? It said "vehicle speed and logging switch" on the page, What sensor is needed to find out the vehicle speed or if I need to route the aftermarket speedo gauge through the ECU would that use one of my Auxiliary Outputs to get it to the speedometer gauge
A digital input is an input that can only sense "on or off" or pulsed type signals - not a variable (analog) voltage. Most modern cars you can splice into the VSS (speedo pick up on gear box) for vehicle speed. - it wont effect your existing speedo.
With the 3 Analog inputs I would be running a map sensor, wideband o2 sensor and for the 3rd input what would be the most useful? Throttle Position?
Yes, TPS would be the next priority. If you use a CAN wideband it will leave you another spare.
If I was to use one of the auxiliary outputs for a thermo fan switch would I need to run an additional temp sensor to the radiator as the engine temp sensor is threaded into the engine block?
No extra sensor required, it is standard practice to use the normal ECT sensor.
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Try this: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9h3aF9QxB3Cek1Lc1lyZVFzaDQ
Note most of the info is in the G4 software help file, and sometimes a little more up to date..
Multi/Missing tooth triggering + Cam sensor
in G4+
Posted
I will add a little more info just for user knowledge: