Talkwrench

ID has several data sets for the 1000cc units.  Use the values for either efi live or hp tuners.  The link ecu uses the same axis break points as a GM ecu.

Some files and instructions attached.  It will be fine to connect to the same bus as the CAN Lambda provided your CAN Lambda is using the default 1Mbit bitrate. 
ECU Master 8Ch EGTtoCAN.txt
Ecumaster Egt2CAN Stream2 ID1553.lcs
Ecumaster Egt2CAN Stream1 ID1552.lcs

I notice from your first PCLR and log file that you've really only tuned below about 2000rpm, but your test run spends most of its time about 2000rpm where you have compltely untuned 70 values in most cells. Assuming your lambda sensor is set up correctly, then its running very lean (1.2 lambda) for 90% of your log, which explains it running badly. 
There are a few seconds in your log about 1:26 where you're speeding up in a tuned section of the fuel map, and while its not at your target lambda (0.85), you are at least getting a reasonable lambda number (0.95ish).
Try putting sensible guesses into the untuned part of the map, or simply using the mixture map function with a log file to roughly adjust the untuned numbers. If it still runs terribly with a roughly correct fuel map then go looking for other problems.
Have you had a look at the fuel maps in a couple of the modelled fuel base maps? They tend to look roughly flat at 90-110 for the majority of the map above 60-80kpa, drop off to 50-60 below 1500rpm or so, and slope down to 50-60 between 80kpa and 20kpa. There are a few bumps around peak torque, but they dont slope smoothly from 20 up to 100ish like a traditional map does. Google up volumetric efficiency table and have a look at the shape of them for any engine/ecu - even though the numbers may be different than what link uses. I've never tuned a rotary, but if that was a piston engine, I wouldnt expect the <2000rpm fuel table to be far off what you've go so far, so dont actually see a problem with the ~80-90 values you've got in there. Remember, this isnt directly a "how much fuel do I use" number in modelled, its a "how efficient is the engine running vs its theoretical maximum at this amount of engine load" number. so another part of the equation in the background already deals with the fact that you need more fuel at 200kpa at 6000rpm than you do at 110kpa at 3000rpm, these numbers may both be say 105 on a finished fuel map. 

Ok attached are a couple of files.  The .lcs is a configurable version of our "generic dash stream", it has been modified a bit (the 8 knock channels have been removed).  I have added DI2 status to the end of it so hopefully you can see how it is done. The .xc1 file is a matching custom CAN config for race studio 3.
The Link end I think is easy enough to work out by trial and error.  The AIM end is not quite so intuitive so I will post a couple of pics to explain the basics:
Click the custom CAN button, then import, then browse for the .xc1 file:

 
Once that is imported you can right click on it and select "open this custom can for editing" and you will get a screen like below with the whole message format showing.  If you look down at the last frame you will see the DI2 status that I have added.  If you double click on those DI2 bytes it will bring up an edit screen which is where you set the start bit, length, scaling etc.  

 
Have a play yourself, if you cant get it to work then reply here with the channels you need and I will try to set something up for you.
Configurable Generic Dash - modified with DI2.lcs
LINK_G4+ Generic + DI_@20170524_021339_007952.xc1

You can't modify the preconfigured streams, normally you have to start from scratch. I do already have a configurable version of the generic dash stream that I can post here later when I'm at work. I think I also have some modified MXS configs that you can copy from.

Cool man, sounds like you've been getting out there and enjoying the car. Isn't it funny how breaking the car miles from home opens the opportunity to meet like minded people and make new friends. Thats what I love about cars, the joy of machine and the fact it brings people together.
Quite like the idea of the K type on the brake disc, I would never have thought of that, you could always drill a small hole into the friction material of the brake pad and force the tip of the thermo in there?
I'd sat stick with the car, i've always quite liked the idea of taking a car and evolving it continously which is what you've been doing and thats always appealed to the engineer in me. You've made something unique and its truly yours, i like that.
Keep going with it buddy and next time get some on track footage 
  

My FD RX7 fitted withe a V88







:twisted: :twisted:

Oh hey! 
Havent been up to much with the car lately... I moved to the South Island to take a job in the motorsports industry, so funnily enough I actually ended up moving right near that track shown on the post above. 
It was awesome down there, but some life complications meant I needed to come back.
Some interesting stuff has happened between now and the last time I posted though I guess...

Firstly I had the windscreen smash which was fun! 



Then I competed through the time atttack series which was good fun, cut a little bit short by me moving away. But I was determined to make my "Street class" car as streetable as possible... Drove it to-from events and even used the car for camping near the events.



At one of the events I had one of the outer injectors in my staged injection setup fail - due to a rusty fuel tank and blocked up fuel filter which obviously let some debris through. 
So I had to roadside retune the car back to primary injectors only, then set a new fastest lap once the engine was running right. 
Since then I switched to a Seimens 850cc "shorty" injector, this gives me more clearance to the bonnet which was needed.
I made up some MSpaint style stickers for the numbers that I needed for the race series, also at the event furthest from home (about 6-7 hours drive) I ended up having the front universal joint in my driveshaft explode which sucked! 



Ended up getting towed all of the way home by some friends who unloaded their car off the trailer so I could get home. Which was much appreciated.

On the ECU side of things, I've got a few changes to plan coming up. 
I have just been working through populating the table to run my tacho as a combined tacho and fuel economy meter, using virtual aux conditions to switch between them automatically depending on what the car is doing. 
So currently I am thinking that when RPM is between 2000 and 4000, rate of acceleration below (something) and speed is above say 60kph the tacho switches over to the fuel economy meter. 
I dont see a way to achieve this apart from wiring two auxiliary outputs to the same tacho input, and switching between them using virtual aux. But I've got some left over so that's fine. 
I also want to setup something using CAN, I have been meaning to double check the accuracy of my analog wideband input so I might kill two birds with one stone and buy the link Can wideband module some time soon.
I've got a lot of DIs left over so will be looking at setting up wheel speed sensors as well, it will be interesting to see how much my LSD is slipping or locking under different circumstances.
It will be interesting to have a play with the traction control system when this is setup, not that a car with this power level particularly needs it. Might come in handy on wet trackdays though! 

I saw a cool idea where someone was using a K type thermocouple dragging against a brake disc to measure brake temperatures. I've been meaning to get some temperature paint or similar to find out how hot the front gets, as I wear out brake pads quite quickly. 
So for sake of interest I might do something similar while I'm setting up wheel speed sensors. Or maybe even a K type just sitting against the brake pad, I guess that's really what you're trying to measure and prevent from overheating.

It might also be fun to setup 4x EGT or 4x wideband, one for each runner but would look at doing this with a CAN based solution.

Apart from that not much else going on, just driving the car and enjoying it.
I like having the car NA and fairly simple but realistically for the time attack stuff I've been doing this means my car is mid pack at best. 
It's heeaapppss of fun though, with some great people and I still wince at the extra engine bay complication of forced induction. As the whole point of this car is to keep things simple. 

I have been having some thoughts lately about starting a new build using maybe a Suzuki cappucino or a Honda Beat. 
Just because they are awesome, and I like the gimmick of tiny cars. Both options will most likely be slower than my existing car haha.
Maybe a Toyota MR-S or similar would be a more sensible starting point.
(Or just go on holidays to Fiji etc instead and enjoy the car I've got!) 

Keep coming back here to check for updates, what you been up to man?

You are free to use any trigger mode you like with the plugin ecu.  36-1 or the RX8 options would both be good choices.  The downside of changing to a hall sensor is you will have to run a new power wire to it.

Thanks! 
I've been tinkering with a few other things, however for the better part, the car is now running great. 
I am going to enter a series here called "Superlap" which is a time attack sort of contest that goes around to a few different tracks around the country.
One of them is based in Cromwell, which is a 21 hour trip each way for me:

 
Which is where cruise control just really shines! This is one of my favourite features so far, and one that I wasnt expecting to be available when I initially purchased the ECU. (I didnt have E-throttle initially either)
I setup an injector test bench and used the advanced injector test function to work out accurate deadtimes and short pulsewdith adder tables for both sets of my injectors:


Which made the staged injection work much much much better with changing temps etc. Also switched over to modelled fuel which works well.
So just fine tuning things, because my outer injectors are 1000cc and spray at a reasonably low pulsewidth, injector timing is something worth spending time getting right. 
I tested this out and found that at lower rpm (when mainly using inner injectors) it's best to spray very early, onto the back of hot valves and let it vapourize the fuel.
But as RPM goes up and switches over to outer injectors, it prefers the injection timing to occur as the valves are open and air is flowing into the cylinder. Which makes sense!

I tested this by statically settting the injection timing to one setting across the whole rpm range, datalogging a run, then incrementing the timing forward, and testing again.
Whereever the AFR shows as richest, that's where the best injection timing exists, as it's more efficiently mixing air/fuel so there's more fuel left over on the way out.

The below graph shows degrees before TDC combustion on the left hand side, and RPM across the top, and the air fuel ratio in each of the boxes. Yellow highlights the best AFR acheived for each RPM range, it's pretty clear to see the trend where it starts transitioning after 5500rpm from 450BTDC down to 250BTDC.



 

Hi Andy,
'Shield/Gnd' and 'Gnd Out' pins should be used to provide ground to sensors and switches.
The connections for CAN 1 and CAN 2 are on the D connector of the Thunder.
Scott

Hey David, Just read through this thread, I admire your incremental approach to tuning your car. I'll take away the use of dropbox for managing logs from the comfort of my arm chair when my project is running. 
Keep the updates coming