Electredge
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Posts posted by Electredge
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it doesn't really matter as long as its not one of motec's logic switches. all of the others will work
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10 hours ago, Adamw said:
In that case your setup will be working correctly as is and needs no changes. Except I'm not sure how you assigned an analog input to lambda 5.
FYI, the exhaust pressure compensation is done inside the CAN lambda devices. The ECU sends calibrated pressure to the CAN lambda, they take it into account in their O2 calculation and send compensated Lambda back to the ECU. The AFR500 does not have any of this functionality so will always assume exhaust pressure is at sea level atmoshpere.
I didn't know that was being done inside the CAN Lambda
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need a log, but your charge temp table isn't setup which could swing the trims a bit under different weather conditions... I doubt this is the starting problem but it will probably cause problems when engine is hot.
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3 hours ago, Wildt267 said:
I'm trying to trouble shoot poor fuel economy on my 06 Sti with the 104x box. I have been using an injector timing value determined via a tutorial from an online tuning course utilizing numbers from my cam card. I ended up with 353 btdc end of injection. I looked at the link basemap for my application and it is 470. I was hoping an engineer could give me some more insight in this matter before i spend hours tweaking the settings. Other relevant info is: aem series wideband wired in via can. Lambda mode set to auto. Afr's track target map pretty closely at 11:1afr past 15psi MGP. On previous aftermarket ecu same mechanical configuration yielded 15-16 mpg. Currently getting 9 mpg under less load.
Thank you for your time.
afr in boost is not really relevant to MPG unless your always in boost... just post up a log of at least 10-15 min of normal driving conditions with the current map.
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39 minutes ago, Adamw said:
The under shoot is mostly idle base position. The base position is the position that the idle valve moves to when you are outside of idle conditions - the starting point from where closed loop takes over when idle conditions are met. If you look at the pic below with it idling at the correct RPM when warm in closed loop the idle valve is sitting at 75%. Yet in your map the base position table for that temp only had 65% in it - so when the idle meets all the lockout conditions the valve is too closed. I have tweaked that base position table a bit.
I think the "hang" or slow return to idle after a blip is just a bit too much advance around the 1500-2500RPM range in the main ign table. So even with the throttle closed and the idle valve closed more than it should be, the engine is still making more torque than it needs. I have dropped that back a bit in the attached map. Increasing the idle base position may make this effect worse so we will just have to see.
I have made a few other small changes. You can see what I have changed by using the file compare function.
For the Fans running all the time - the log shows all fan statuses as off so that suggests one of our active state settings is probably wrong. Go to the engine fan settings and try changing the Aux 1 and Ign 4 active state settings to the opposite and see if one of those switches the fan/s off. In my evo one aux is set to high and one is set to low - but mine is using a wire-in ECU so I dont remember how that compares to the plug-in.
I didn't have a chance to screenshot this but the way he has the stepper reset counter isn't how I normally see it done, and if its changed to reset on the off ignition then the ecu hold settings need to be adjusted to keep power while it counts down.... this one thing could be causing the differing idle settings as well as the no start if he is just cranking it up immediately like 95% of the ppl do
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3 hours ago, mattj said:
It’s not just that. It still crashes while I’m driving around logging data. No monitor changes RE there. Must be related to loading layout files. I’ll try it without loading a layout file and see what happens.
your loading different layouts while tuning?
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14 minutes ago, k4nnon said:
Hey thanks! i loaded that base and it didnt start at first. I had to raise the stepper values at current engine temp to keep the car running. Once those were changed car idles a lot better now so something you changed for me worked well. Ill have to confirm the next time i try to start the car if it has idle issues because of the values i changed. Ill post up the file so you can see exactly what i had to change. If idle stays good ill consider that one step done,, Still noticed the slow rev fall issue. not sure if that was something you changed also or if it was just idle related. either way thanks again. progress!!..
post up the log
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2 hours ago, k4nnon said:
Hey guys finally got a chance to take another log if you wanna look at it and see if you notice anything i need to change to correct my issue. Iv simplified and went to open loop idle control, this is only temporary and im not even sure its correct but its working for the time being. I still believe my stepper adjustments are probably incorrect or that an actual mechanical adjustment may be needed at the throttle stop screw. Either way thats why im on the forum, i hope to learn all this stuff with time but all help and guidance is appreciated.. This log is engine at temp. some slower throttle blips and then some faster throttle blips. Ill attatch a cope of te base tune as well. thankyou!!
Warm engine throttle blips hang issue..llgx 1.48 MB · 2 downloads Base Cal 4..pclx 461.56 kB · 1 download
try this
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1 minute ago, GTO Assassin said:
I have a 2020 MacBook Pro.... Before the M1 came out....
if you get parallels it will work flawlessly
I unfortunately upgraded to an M1 and will be waiting for a while I'm sure
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16 minutes ago, GTO Assassin said:
It's 2022. Any chance this ever happened?
Scotty
do you have an M1 or an Intel? It works well in parallels with the intel chip
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7 hours ago, Oksanen said:
Hello! Got my FuryX running and retired my Vipec V88 this week. Everything went smooth, just been adjusting fuel map on the streets.
I read the help file a lot cause I have a little confusion about the Vanos. Intake cam reaches maximum ~29degrees on the logs, my request is way more (46).
Is the vvt angles shown in the logs in cam degrees or crank degrees? My M54B30 has max 60 crank degrees of movement on camshafts. That ~29 is just half of that, so I need confirmation that the cam stops moving because of mechanical limits. Vanos has been rebuild, cams are schrick cams. From the logs I could tell that the system is trying to drive the vanos solenoid still with full DC when moving stops on that ~29.
you need to do a cam angle test... it will retard and advance the cam and insert the offset data which will zero it out.
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1 hour ago, HCT said:
Hi Adam
After 4 months this week my AIM PDM arrived.
I have drawn up how all the parts need too be connected.
Is this the correct way?
Thanks
I don't think there is a specific right or wrong, however I think the keypad CAN bus can not be shared with other devices. So I'm pretty sure you will just need to use CAN 3 for those other AIM devices.
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6 minutes ago, k4nnon said:
Hey thanks for chyming in on the topic. Newbie with the pclink stuff so ill actually have to figure out how to go about attatching a copy of the tune. Or is it just a copy of the saved file.. Car is barely tuned to a running state right now. Enough to cruise around, Most of the map is still the evo 9 Base map provided by link. The rest is set up for my specifics like injector data, stuff like that. Always appreciate the information and so bare with me while im a newbie in this process. Let me know any specific information you would like to see or know and ill try my best to provide...Thanks again.
top left - file -> save as..... name it and upload that
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7 hours ago, k4nnon said:
Hey thanks, I took a small log, not sure if any of the logged information is what you would like to see but it may get me in the right direction. I havent set up any specific logging functions yet so just going off what is set up to log by default. Vehicle idles decent, drives decent, been using the self tune feature and cruisng AFR is decent. I have not messed with trying to set up idle with ac on or any of that yet either.. Just trying t get this basic stuff correct one step at a time. Thanks for any information.
Warm Throttle blips. Stepper set up...llgx 675.92 kB · 1 download
need to post a copy of the map/tune as well... only thing obvious I see currently is the idle status is not active at idle... MAP HOLD...
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as soon as any of the tech ppl respond they will want a log and map posted.... but i'd potentially check the dashpot in the idle settings
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what resolution are you using? and how much ram do your laptops have? have you tried a new page with just the time plot running? if so does it do the same thing?
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1 minute ago, Tomas said:
Hi All,
I'm in the process of wiring up my Xtreme ecu. My plan was to replace the factory Knock sensor with new link sensor. Is the 2nd knock input for another knock sensor? Is there a benefit to having two sensor?
1 for each bank for your application
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5 hours ago, Fwdmn said:
That is good to know, thank you!
Is it still ok to power the ECU, injectors, coils, two solenoids and the three CAS and CAM hall sensors from the Main Relay or is this too much tacked on to one thing?
depends on the type of coils and injectors but often yes it would be no problem. its all about amperage draw.
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6 hours ago, Fwdmn said:
If anyone else finds this while searching, I randomly stumbled onto a MoTec document listing 6A at 12v with 2.5ms dwell for the K20 coil, the same should apply to the very similar Toyota coils
what kind of wire are you going to be using? regular txl? or /16 or /32?
all of those wire sizes should be fine, injectors will need to be high impedance.
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On 1/20/2022 at 9:12 PM, Adamw said:
Yeah I have done a few over the years when Im interested enough but dont usually keep the spectrogram. That one above was more recent so I still had the files on my laptop. Mostly odd engines that not many would be interested in anyhow. But one example I do remember is my Evo 7 (86mm bore) was similar to above, they have a resonant frequency type sensor standard (centered around ~13KHz), but the best frequency for knock detection according to the spectrogram was about 7.5K. I think calculated frequency was about 6.6KHz but ended up working nice at 8.
I would be very interested in your EVO one if you find a pic of it. I just did some tuning on an EVO 9 and wanted to dial in the knock control.
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3 hours ago, Adamw said:
7K narrow will see that.
However, just for your interest, I rarely find the calculated frequency is ideal. Below is a pic from me doing some testing on our EJ207. The calculated frequency based on the 92mm bore size for the engine would be about 6.2KHz.
Frequency is on the Y axis of this pic. If you look at 6.2K, there is so much noise it is hard to really see any difference between knock and no knock. If you look at the 2nd harmonic of this at about 12.4K, it is not really any better. In fact about 8-9KHz has the best signal to noise ratio for determining knock in this case.
But what Im getting at is the bands are usually quite wide - +/-0.5KHz is not going to make much difference.
very interesting... have you done this test with any other motor?
The A / F becomes lean after restarting.
in Engine Tuning
Posted
where is the IAT located? still in the intake plenum? and what does the IAT read when you go to restart it? It is common for this to occur on warm restart as the IAT temp sensor reading has gone up but not the actual air temp and takes a little bit of time to come back into normal operation as temp sensors move fairly slow at idle. are you using charge temp table? is this tuned in modeled mode or traditional?