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Electredge

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Posts posted by Electredge

  1. 8 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Not presently possible for ethanol content (can do fuel temp via analog).  It was decided to omit that option some time ago as none of the analog output options I looked at the time handled the sensor error conditions properly (or at all).  Can you not splice into the digital sensor signal wire and connect it to a DI (with pull-up off)?  

    got it, thanks Adam... I just wanted to ask before splicing into the sensor directly 

  2. Customer has Innovate Ethanol Gauge Kit - It converts the ethanol sensor from the typical digital input into 2 AV 0-5v outputs for ethanol content and fuel temp. 

    I didn't see a way to select AV input for flex fuel and wanted to know if there was a way to do it. 

    Thanks

    Jon

  3. 7 hours ago, 96Evo4.5 said:

    I'm not sure, last I looked it said 2.434 for actual. i could load up my short log if you think that might shed some light? 

     

    They are high Z as far as im aware, thats what they were listed as when I bought them, off an evo 8, and yes I still have the stock resistor ballasts in place. I have my master fuel set to 4ms and its still rich, like 12:8:1 but that is much leaner from previous when it was nearing 8:1 

    you can use an ohm meter to test the injectors, if they are high impedance and you still have the stock resistor ballast in place its not going to control the injectors properly.  

  4. 5 hours ago, Santatu said:

    Good morning.
    My ecu Xtreme X was working perfectly.
    He loaded the map and everything is perfect, the signal works smoothly with the display, everything is perfect.
    I have started it again but the fuel pump does not stop always connected and the PC does not connect to the ECU.
    What is possible that is happening?

    Captura.PNG

    what version software and what firmware is in the ecu? 

  5. 1 hour ago, 96Evo4.5 said:

    I would of done that already however i didn't, cause I'm having issues with my CAN sensor being read by the ecu, so I could give you a log but you couldn't see afr. It wants to idle at 900rpm but just stalls, when I apply 4% throttle its at like 1200rpm or so? And it sounds okay, its just rich beyond its wildest dreams. 

    what is the injector PW at idle? actual and effective

  6. Just now, jrdnclrk said:

    Hey guys I'm having some issues with getting my car to start. I'm very new to the link ecu and have lots to learn. I've searched the forums for answers but its time to make a post with a cranking log.

    some more info on the set up

    ive got 1zz coils, 1000cc injectors, running the stock tps, map, crank angle, cam angle, and iat sensors. fuel pressure is at 60psi not cranking. 

    I'm looking to see if anyone else can spot what I've gone wrong as far as set up. Any advice at all is greatly appreciated.

     

    PC Datalog - 2021-04-1 9;50;28 pm.llgx 616.98 kB · 0 downloads

    need to drop the map as well 

    12 minutes ago, jrdnclrk said:

    Hey guys I'm having some issues with getting my car to start. I'm very new to the link ecu and have lots to learn. I've searched the forums for answers but its time to make a post with a cranking log.

    some more info on the set up

    ive got 1zz coils, 1000cc injectors, running the stock tps, map, crank angle, cam angle, and iat sensors. fuel pressure is at 60psi not cranking. 

    I'm looking to see if anyone else can spot what I've gone wrong as far as set up. Any advice at all is greatly appreciated.

     

    PC Datalog - 2021-04-1 9;50;28 pm.llgx 616.98 kB · 4 downloads

    1.5jzgte 333121.pclx 409.08 kB · 2 downloads

    what crank and cam setup are you using? 

  7. if the crank trigger wheel has been replaced by a 36-2 aftermarket wheel the 99-00 Miata non VVT uses 3 teeth on the cam and is not currently a supported pattern, however you can remove the valve cover and cut off 2 of the 3 teeth on the cam gear fairly easily then you can make it work without any issues. 

    @AdamwThis is the trigger setup I'm gonna get you the scope for, tons and tons of the existing miata's have already swapped out the OEM 4 tooth crank wheel for the 36-2.

    Hope that helps 

    Jon

  8. Just now, Graham BPT said:

    Haha. Thanks. I’ll get the video linked tomorrow. 
     

    it will probably be you. I’m waiting on a new engine for my car and recently got sucked into side by sides. I might have accidentally blown my sequential fund on a Motec ECU and turbo kit for my Yamaha YXZ1000R lol. Off roading this thing has been way more fun and way less expensive than racing cars. I’m just addicted to boost and can’t leave anything alone. 

    John Reed or Cody Phillips? LOL 

  9. 1 minute ago, Graham BPT said:

    Haha, no actually this is just manually shifting with a clutch. It’s a 1999 Subaru 2.5 RS with a 2007 STi engine swap and a short ratio Subaru 6 Speed gear box. I can shift it decently quick and with the right shift cut settings is very quick and smooth. I’ll upload a video tomorrow if you want to see it. The upper clutch switch is the trigger and it’s open looped timed control for the cut and resume of power. A proper sequential box would be even faster. I’m planning to eventually fit one to my 2011 STi time attack car. It’s on a Motec M1 ECU currently but I’ll likely do some Link ECU testing and development on it once they’ve got support for these models. Link’s shift cut logic seems well written so it should work very well for a sequential box I suspect. 

    that's impressive, like .5 seconds consistently too... I'd love to see the vid, and I recently did a sequential on M1 as well and wanted to see how a Link would do. :D we will see which of us gets to test it first  :lol:

  10. 5 hours ago, Graham BPT said:

    Thanks Adam!  This is why I like you guys! :)

    I appreciate the support.

    as quick as those gear shifts appeared to take place I assume this is a sequential gearbox. what kind? are you using paddles or gear shift lever?  I've been wanting to test a Link on one, still waiting on a customer to get the car ready 

    Thanks 

    Jon

  11. 7 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Your TDC angles are wrong which means your spark is ~20 retarded on every 2nd cyl.   The TDC angles you have set are evenly spaced 72 deg apart which would be an even fire engine - you would need a block with a 72deg vee for this to work.  

    The viper block is a 90deg vee, so when coupled with the shared crank pins that are 72deg evenly spaced you end up with odd firing angles 54 & 90deg apart.  

    TDC points should be as follows:

    UNnz2o1.png

    In the help section it says these Custom TDC Points need to be in the firing order. If I'm understanding that correctly I think it would look like this. 

     

    1 = 0

    2 = 630

    3 = 288

    4 = 198

    5 = 432

    6 = 342

    7 = 576

    8 = 486

    9 = 144

    10 = 54

    Sorry not on my tuning computer and don't have the software on this machine :D

    Let me know if that looks right Adam

  12. thank adam, that makes sense I was just trying to make the table smaller. for crank enrich and post start enrich it seems to have very small gaps between the temps, which makes the table very long. especially the 266 and 284 degree temps which hopefully the cars will never see :D... 

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