Dean

Thanks. I'll give my wiring a go!

Oh. So I should stick with the path of the pull-down resistor method? And is my 8V supplied 1.1-2.262V range good for the Fury DI?

Could I get someone’s confirmation that the Motec DMC-D will work for my situation before I get it? I think I’ll trust it more than my wiring. 370Z speed sensors, Link G4+ wire in. (No ABS unit) cheers!

I'm also thinking that the Motec DMC-D might be my best option, if that's the kind of this that will work for sure. (and be simpler to wire)=

I'm testing this on the bench (using a G4X 8V and sensor GND) and can only get it to oscillate between the two values by tapping the sensor on a magnet. Is that ok? Results: 8V supply 160R pull down: 1.1V - 2.262V 200R pull down: 1.375V - 2.831V.

I just did a quick test with a battery I had laying around. 330ohm pull down resistor. Can get it to oscillate 2.24-4.62V - is it bad that I’m using a magnet to trigger it? It’s the only way I can get it to switch. I’ll give it a go with the 8V but does it look like I’m on the right path? I’m aiming for below 1.2 and above 1.8 eventually right? Cheers. I'll try that when I'm with the car next. 200ohm pull down still?

The final position on the trim pot read 00.4 on the 200ohm setting (I rounded down). Would that have saved the sensor? Before using a 5v supply i bench tested it with a 12v battery (with a 330ohm pull up) and could get it to oscillate around 8.4-8.8v. If I use a 12v supply on the car I would need to find a stable source right? Otherwise speed will fluctuate with battery voltage change?

Yes, there is that option and I do have some spare sensors that will work for the rear. I really do need the front one to work though, so if I can get it to work I'll use standard 370Z sensors front and rear.

Did you find a solution to this at all? I’m currently going through the issue of getting 370Z speed sensors to work with a Fury. (Complete rewire, no ABS unit or CAN) I’ve gone through that Motec help file that’s linked on HPA. I’ve used the 5V reference with a potentiometer to get it near that 1.2-1.5v range, but can’t get the sensor to oscillate. The DI on the link reacts (displays ACTIVE and shows a random frequency) when I get the voltage around 2V. Here’s my table of voltages using a 12 position rotary knob.

Update: The car went on the dyno and made a respectable 545kw at the wheels (1.5JZ GT3582R Gen II, E85), the relay issue didn’t effect the tune luckily. I looked closer at the Link wiring diagram and noticed the 12V supply for ‘control solenoids’ and ‘relay coils’ didn’t have a relay mentioned. My wiring had the ECU relay triggering another relay to supply 12V to both solenoids and relay coils. I bypassed this relay and it seems to have solved my problem. I’ll put a small fuse on the ign switch to make sure it’s not drawing too much current. I’m assuming items like boost controller, Flex Fuel sensor, o2 sensor, alternator 12v sense and relay coils won’t draw much current?

I did that and it traced back to the solenoid supply relay. It supplies 12v to: MAC valve, O2 sensor, ethanol sensor, power steering solenoid, alternator, 3x fuel pump relays, and accumulator relay. From there I traced it back to the MAC valve, but then the problem got worse and started to doing it without the valve connected. I need to go back and remove everything again because I ran out of time and it’s heading in for a tune. I appreciate the help from everyone. I won’t get a chance to see the car again until the new year...

IGN off - ECU off , no power to any relays except for the constant 12v to pin 87 I probe the ECU aux output with 12v (hope that doesn’t wreck it) and all the relays turn on and stay on. This is with the MAC valve unplugged as well.

I’ll go through every circuit to see if I’ve made a mistake somewhere. The car runs and drives normally, and also turns off normally if I press the stop button before ign off. I’ll attach my relay panel if any one can spot anything and might also do a video of the issue when I get a chance.

The 10 main relays are OEX (non fused picture attached) 3 fuel pump relays are the fused ones. wired as follows - 87 - all 12v constant 30 - all load 85 - ign switched 12v 86 - ecu ground or earth I’ve tried 2 sets of relays for the 10 main ones. Different brands. Same problem.

That's what I assumed too. Do you have any hints for what I can try with my issue? Should I check all of my wiring in case I accidentally have voltage going into an aux?

Yes, the ground trigger isn't activated but the 12v to the boost valve is always there with key on. And roughly 5.6V is staying on my relays with key off. Is my wiring above satisfactory?

I should also mention the problem only occurs after the car has started and I turn off IGN. I can flick the IGN on and off otherwise without issue. Won’t it always power down at the same time as the ECU if I kill the car with the ignition switch? Unless the MACs own relay is switched to constant 12v (which would make it run when ECU is off because the AUXs go to ground), or I put it on its own physical switch. eg. if I trigger the MAC relay by RPM > 250rpm, that sorts out turning it on. But when I turn off the IGN, all of the relays and ECU will power down at the same time. At the moment I can press the stop button, and then turn off the IGN. That’s one way to power the ECU down last, but there are times when you just need to flick the IGN off. (NB: I don’t have this problem with another car that’s wired almost identically)

Thanks for the tips! UPDATE: Removing the MAC valve solves the problem. It behaved the same way with another MAC valve too so I must be facing the issue in the wiring you mention loca5790. (I am getting audible clicks from the MAC now too) It has at least stopped the fuel pumps from running after IGN off, but I have a feeling a couple of relays are still staying on. Should I also check the other devices on the same 12v just in case? Ethanol sensor, p/s solenoid.

I just had a thought. This issue wasn’t there during all of the basic circuit testing (when only the pumps, ignition, injection, triggers were connected). Mac valve was one of the last circuits I completed, and testing that was kind of weird. The valve wasn’t clicking loudly (should it?). It was very very soft and only possible to hear if I cranked it up to 400hz or so where you could just hear it hum if you put your ear close to it. I don’t have the car with me, but I’m guessing I’ll need to disconnect all of the aux’s until I find the one backfeeding?

G4+ Fury 370Z - 1.5JZ engine 6x Bosch injectors 6x Yaris coils 350Z throttle body Mac valve boost controller Astra electric power steering Standard in-tank pump, 2x Bosch 044 external accusump and IC spray not installed but wiring is in place Falcon thermos Flex fuel sensor Speed sensor 1x front 1x rear DI switches controlling - start, launch, traction, boost, logging Oil, water, air temp MAP, Oil, fuel pressures I wired the whole car (body, dash, ecu/engine), it’s basically identical to my car which i also wired and have been using in competition for 4 years. PROBLEM: The car starts and runs fine, currently untuned. If I press the ‘START/STOP’ button to kill the car it stops like normal. If I kill the motor with the ignition switch, the engine turns off but there’s still roughly 5.6v going to the relays, and the pumps etc continue to run. All of the relay switch powers (86) are provided by one main relay. I was hoping when that relay was off, they’d all be off. I hope ive just missed something really simple. Thank you!

Main ECU relay continues to hold roughly 5.6V after key off. This keeps the other relays on. I haven’t checked for an Aux back feed yet. Before I draw up my wiring diagram, can I first ask if it’s bad for the relays to have 12v to pin 87, and the load to pin 30? (I’ve noticed I’ve done them all this way, if it’s not a problem it means I don’t have to wire them all again) Resistor protected relays Cheers.

Yes, I did notice that. I offset the few that need to go negative (temps and MGP) in the Link CAN setup, and the rest (kpa -> psi etc) in the AIM custom CAN. It's been a good journey to really get to know the software back to front!

Just had a thought. I'm using a modified version of the custom CAN setup from my G4+ (to communicate with the AIM dash), and I replaced a few of the original Knock Level spots with my digital outputs (logging, traction, launch, boost). Could the CAN setup be messing with labels?

Thanks for the response. Yeah, the only way I could get it to show up normally is the Virtual Aux/GP Input method. I'll give that a try for a bit. Weird that it keeps getting stuck on the knock table.

I've just finished the migration from Fury G4+ to G4X. Traction control was working normally on the previous ECU. When I set the Disable DI to DI 6 it keeps showing up as Knock Table 5 Level and I can't seem to get it to work properly. My DI 6 switch is providing 12V to the pin. Photo and tune file attached. Any help would be appreciated! Cheers. Dean G4X 081220 Updated Firmware.pclx