Dean

I noticed the TPS Setup has 2.698V Closed and 0v Open (which seems a little unusual). Then the TP(Main) is set up with error low of 0.05V. Cause for concern?

I can’t imagine a little washer bottle motor would like PWM? I just have my sprayer turn on when the IAT gets to a set temp (with it set to be on for 5secs, off for 5secs above that temp).

https://linkecu.com/software-support/ecu-fault-codes/ 49 - An Temperature 3 above error high value

Changed to a different CAS then switched to an AEM 24+1 disc (multitooth setting) and still had the issue. I noticed when I changed to multitooth for the AEM disc, it had trigger 1 set to ‘crank’. I changed it to ‘cam’ and it’s fixed the issue. I found it hard to get info on what settings to use for a 24+1 disc but it looks like it’s holding 150rpm steady at cranking and both Trig 1/Trig 2 are staying on.

I just realised I haven't checked the software version. It’s a new G4X Fury, powered up for the first time. I'll do that first. The engine harness is also brand new, I built it. CAS is wired with Tefzel twin core and 22AWG power/ground. Everything else has gone smoothly so far, just the CAS issue. I'll also try another CAS to rule that out.

With the PDM now attached to the battery, voltage is just lower than before while cranking (10v). RPM is doing the same thing. I should double check while I’m here about CAS wiring. The ground wire is to the cylinder head, because everywhere I searched said chassis ground. (My mind says it should be to sensor ground) 12v is unregulated, same supply as the solenoids. Could either of these be an issue?

I put a multimeter on the CAS plug while cranking and it has a steady 12.5V. I’m currently powering the ecu with an external device, and the starter is being controlled with the cars key. I’ll quickly wire the ecu to the cars battery to see if it changes anything.

I did notice that dip in Trig1 and thought the wheel might be damaged, but it looks fine. ECU Log attached. Voltage looks ok.Tyson Log 1.llgx

Hi everyone. Could someone please check this scope out for me? I did the Nissan Opto Widest Slot setup - counted 16 Trig 1 in the space of the biggest Trig 2. Trig 1 doesn't look stable, though so the ECU recognises RPM for a few revolutions, then stops and repeats. Cheers Tyson Scope 1.llgx Tune fileTyson SR20DET.pclx

Yes, it will be Aux 7 and E throttle Setup Mode is allowing me to set it as high side. Thank you!

Fury G4X ECU - I'm building a custom loom for a friend at the moment and I had the E throttle relay being enabled by the main relay output (along with the coil relay). From what I've read, this is ok, and I can trick the ECU by assigning a spare AUX out for the E throttle to work. I've had a change of heart and want to have the safety of an ECU controlled relay. Problem - my relays are ground bussed (Bussman fuse/relay box) and I'm triggering everything on the high side. Will I run into back-feeding problems (or safety problems) by high side triggering the E throttle relay? (I'm also high triggering the starter relay) Should I just return the wiring to how I had it and trick the ECU? Thank you!

I could get it to go into limp mode. We helped it a bit by putting a math average filter on the APS signal, but that seems like a bandaid.

Thanks for the response Adam. I can get the error to accumulate when the car isn't running. (I have a charger attached to keep voltage happy) I also have other logs at high RPM/WOT for prolonged periods where the errors only accumulate on gear shifts. The throttle table is set to close at high rpm too (which hasn't been perfected with the new throttle), and it does confuse the throttle body a bit up in that area, especially during drift events when throttle input is hectic.

Fury G4X For a few years I have been using a 350Z e-throttle without too much issue but have recently changed to a Bosch 76mm e-throttle. Problems have started since then. I've been chasing the issue over the past few events with the Target Error increasing and then putting the throttle in limp mode (causing me to crash a couple of times). We've been adjusting the PID but I'm still not comfortable with the error rate. We ended up putting a math filter on the APS to stop any rapid pedal movement making it worse. I also notice on my logs that the DC% maxes out, which seems to be what is causing the error. I've attached a quick PC log and Tune. Cheers! Ethrottle Error.llgx 5.4 Declan Good Math Throttle.pclx Here's a log from an actual driving lap where the target error accumulates during fairly normal pedal usage. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AmMaA3GenynygZUrWv4xYoTURO4o9w?e=JdujnI

I finally got around to measuring this. I hope I’m doing it right. I removed the relay put the multimeter on the 30 and 87 slots. PS pump started up, but it barely read any load, like almost nothing (I tried all of the Amp settings) I guess that’s a good sign?

Hi everyone, I've done a bunch of Astra pumps before, all being triggered via a relay. No problems doing it this way. 12V High current directly from alternator (fused) GND to chassis 12V IGN 12V ECU/relay trigger above 300rpm I'm just about to begin a loom on another car and am trying to limit the amount of relays. Am i able to trigger the PS pump directly from the AUX output high side driver? How do I work out how much current the PS pump switch draws to make sure it's within the ECU limit? Cheers!

I've had good results using Parallels on my Mac. It's also good for quickly switching between the two operating systems.

It has been better since doing the firmware update. I was hesitant to do the update because it needed the timing to be confirmed and I was already heading to the race track. I've developed a couple of other mechanical issues since then but the ECU -> PC connection seems to be ok. Thanks koracing!

I have a sudden issue, hopefully it's an easy fix. As soon as the USB cable is connected it shows up in Device Manager as being good. When I click connect to the ECU in PCLink the program freezes until I pull the USB cable out. I can't get anything done to my file while this is happening. Error 1005 shows up when I unplug. PCLink 6.20.40 LinkFury Firmware - Unsure. Updated a couple of months ago. Thank you!

Yes. Like this.. I don't think my type of sensor has the odd lower voltage pulses, it just oscillated between the two voltages. I just kept trying different voltage supplies (5V, 8V) and resistors in both pull up and pull down configuration until I got the result that worked. I lost confidence along the way but glad I persisted. A little resistor and some wiring is way cheaper than redoing the whole speed sensor setup.

I went through a similar process with a 370Z ABS sensor (active speed sensor) and used this document to help -- https://www.motec.com.au/filedownload.php/CTN0007 Magneto Resistive Sensors.pdf?docid=3634 I used the standard ABS sensor with 8V going to the positive side, and a 150R pulldown resistor in the ground. This got me a voltage oscillation range of 1.02-2.11V which the Link ECU can read through a digital input. The G4X is capable of receiving a higher frequency than the G4+, so using an ABS speed sensor seems to work well. I’ve previously used ABS sensors on a Fury G4+ up to 260kph without a problem

It works! It's nice and sensitive, even down to 1km/h turning by hand. 8V supply, 150R pulldown, oscillating between 1.02-2.11V. Do you think I should still try to get it below 1V or because it works now, it will be fine?

Thanks, I'll give it a go. Should I be using a specific wattage resistor? I think I've been using 0.5W.

Fury G4+

I have the sensor on the car now. 8V supply, 160R pull down resistor. This video is with the positive probe on the signal wire, negative to ground. I’m gently turning the wheel and can get it to react with the multimeter (1.1-2.2V) Nothing shows up on the DI input though. I’ve tried spinning the wheel as fast as possible, and also changing the ECU pull-up resistor and rising/falling settings. I can get the DI to say ACTIVE if I disconnect and connect the signal wire (it also shows a speed if I do it quickly) I feel like I’m close to getting it working! Is there anything else I can try to get it to work? Cheers! It’s actually 1.09 - 2.25V when I use the sensor ground.