MichaelR32GTR
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Posts posted by MichaelR32GTR
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Hi all,
ive just installed a Bosch temperature and pressure sensor on my rb26 running a g4+ fury
temperature is wired to Temp3
pressure is wired to ANV8
is there calibrations available for these sensors ?
thanks
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Perfect Thankyou
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If I want to remove some timing from when it makes full boost which is mid to high 5000rpm to redline 9500rpm
and from gate pressure 24psi up to full boost 35psi
can I lower the values in this box see link below)
but still have a slight gradual increase as it approaches redline ?
hoping to remove between 2 and 4 degrees where possible
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-8i87avyPNqCQbtEOaXp7BQb1hb8VzzA/view?usp=drivesdk
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Is it possible to take 2 degrees timing out from peak boost (6000rpm) to redline (9500rpm)
do I need to post my tune file or anything else ?
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On 3/13/2020 at 10:09 AM, Edmund T said:
HI Simon, I found this from Haltech https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038001-nissan-attesa-4wd-tps-adaptor/. Would this be the same purpose?
I use this in my r32 gtr with link fury with great success
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my bad,,,
should be ok now
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y5jJv939ybvyZako4nvtsJ8pUwd34qRo/view?usp=sharing
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Sorry not sure if that worked or I need to also attach my tune file as well as log file
thanks
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hello
could someone please tell me what ignition timing I'm running from 6000rpm (max boost) to redline 9000+ rpm,
should be running around 32-34psi boost or so
thanks
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y5jJv939ybvyZako4nvtsJ8pUwd34qRo/view?usp=sharing
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Perfect will look into it
cheers
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Removed Plug B - pin 2 (injector 7)
turn ignition on and off and still back feeding.....
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Ok thanks
I will de-pin injector 7 from plug B, pin 2 and test again
cheers
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I turned the car on and off multiple times and it did it once back feeding out of say 8 times
I will keep an eye on it
I have Digital input - ignition switch OFF
and injector 7 - eccs relay - OFF
should I disconnect injector 7 wire that goes to engine harness pin 16 completely as I think that’s what u meant in the reply below
or just turn them off in the ecu settings
On 5/13/2020 at 10:20 AM, Adamw said:The new relay:
Pin 85 to ground.
Pin 86 to ignition switched +12V (you can use the original ecu wire that goes to pin 45)
Pin 30 to ground.
Pin 87 to original ECU pin 16 (ECCS relay control).
The Link ECU ecu hold power output should be turned off and Inj 7 disconnected from pin 16. The "ign switch" DI is also not needed.
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Done and problem sorted
thanks again Adam
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Ok perfect
I will splice into pin16 wire and leave the factory eccs wire as is wired up in the background.
thanks !
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On 5/13/2020 at 10:20 AM, Adamw said:
The new relay:
Pin 85 to ground.
Pin 86 to ignition switched +12V (you can use the original ecu wire that goes to pin 45)
Pin 30 to ground.
Pin 87 to original ECU pin 16 (ECCS relay control).
The Link ECU ecu hold power output should be turned off and Inj 7 disconnected from pin 16. The "ign switch" DI is also not needed.
Been busy sorting out other things but almost 100% done now
I will be wiring the new relay this week/weekend
in regards to the new relay pin 87 to original ecu pin 16 (eccs relay control)
should I splice into it or run a new wire from pin 16 to relay 87 thus bypassing the factory eccs relay completely (or do we still need the factory eccs relay wired up and running aswell as the new relay)
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Just found the ngk racing plugs I need in resistor type
will be here in afew days and will report back
also ecu logging is off
my fingers are crossed
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Worth a shot !
just need to find a cross reference for the same plug but in resistor
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Just checked and they are non resistor NGK racing plugs
NGK R5671A-10
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Sorry he wasn’t running his it was just a spare ecu
Ok I went to “Logging setup” - “ecu logging” and unticked the “enabled” box
i will test car in afew hours and report back
Thanks
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abit hard to read as I had to upload it small
“lambda error 2” according to lambda sensor control error values still showing it’s an “internal control issue and no user actions can be taken to correct”
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The o2 sensor is wired directly to ecu and I don’t have any other sensor issues only with onboard wideband controller
all the earths from engine wiring harness mount to a bolt at the back of head on the engine, and also my ignition coils (r35 gtr coil kit) earth at the same point, could this be an issue sharing an earth point with ignition ?funny that one ecu drops out at idle and cruise and the other doesn’t
but both do at high rpm ?!
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Hello
got an update on this,
I sent logs to link technical and they agreed my link fury showing “lambda error2” needs to go back for repairs.
while it was getting repaired, my mate had a link fury ecu I could borrow, loaded my map and afrs still dropped out on boost/high rpm, but it didn’t drop out while cruising or at idle like mine did
i got my ecu back on Friday from link and tried it today, still drops out at idle randomly, and at high rpm and shows “lambda error2” again
so both ecus are doing the same thing, my friends one though won’t drop afrs at idle or cruising like my original one does
before I sent the ecu to link I have tried different power source for the lsu4.9 sensor
and 2 different sensors
does anyone know what this could be ?
im about to forget about it all and run an aftermarket digital wideband controller and be done
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Haven’t had a chance to test this yet
i will load the tune over the weekend and give it a test, log, and report back
thanks!
Bosch temp/pressure sensor calibration
in G4+
Posted
Thankyou !!