ecu swap nothing working

[max]

hello ive just swapped ecu from a vipec v44 to a link fury now on cranking the injectors and ignition channels are staying off and obviously the car isnt starting.

cant get the electric throttle working sometimes it will let me calibrate the throttle position sensor other times not. keeps throwing error codes but there changing all the time regarding the e throttle.

the pedal seems to be working correctly but even that throws error codes relating to its channels the throttle body doesnt seem to be doing nothing  when looking in the runtime values.

and last but not least i cant get the can to out put to my plex usdm it worked perfect on the vipec but no its not receiving anything from the ecu.

thanks in advance

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Brad Burnett]

Have you input the unlock code for the new ecu?

[max]

yes

[Adamw]

Need a copy of the map and a log of it cranking:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

From your screenshots the TP hasnt been calibrated (TP main shows 0%, TP sub shows 77%) so the E-throttle limit is active.  You also have errors saying analog inputs are above their error settings so you need to check your error settings.

 

[max]

the tp is erratic sometimes it let's you calibrate it others it won't but either way it never works would that cause both the injectors and ignition channels not to fire

[max]

just tried to calibrate it again and caught  what it was doing but as i say sometimes it will let you calibrate it but still doesn't work.

no start map.pclr no start.llg

[Brad Burnett]

I have had issues in the past trying to calibrate the TP.  Ive had success in those times by just manually entering the values that I would achieve without doing the auto cal.

 

[Adamw]

You have something wrong with your wiring.  When you start cranking the 5V output gets overloaded/shorted to ground and the TP main input is seeing more than 5v at all times.  Unplug the throttle body and see if the 5v out then returns to stable, if it does then it probably means you have the throttle pinout wrong.

[max]

it will let you calibrate it sometimes but it still doesn't work when calibrated I've got another throttle body coming to see if that's at fault. I just don't understand why it now doesn't even try to start

8 minutes ago, Adamw said:

You have something wrong with your wiring.  When you start cranking the 5V output gets overloaded/shorted to ground and the TP main input is seeing more than 5v at all times.  Unplug the throttle body and see if the 5v out then returns to stable, if it does then it probably means you have the throttle pinout wrong.

will try in the morning would that also cause the injectors and ignition not to fire

[max]

this is the throttle body diagram i followed but will double check it in the morning its the Bosch 0280 750 036 one

 

 

[Richard Hill]

That dta pinout sheet is wrong, almost caught me out before! 

[max]

that would be my problem then i dont suppose you know the correct pin out

[Richard Hill]

I have just checked my data sheet for that throttle body and it matches the DTA sheet.  I think it was a pedal position sensor that was wrong previously.

 

 

[max]

ive had another play with it and its still no good still on cranking i get no ignition or injectors both the air tem sensor and the water temp sensor readings are jumping about.

tp main and sub and ap main and sub both work fine untill you crank the engine then the tp main and sub go in apposite directions then stops working. 

but whats making the injectors and ignition to remain off

 

 

it wont let upload logs now for some reason

[Brad Burnett]

Can you plug the V44 back in and get everything back to working?

[max]

yes but would mean messing with pedals and throttle boy and cables

[Adamw]

Like I already said yesterday your 5v output is shorted so no 5v sensors will work correctly.  MAP, temps and TPS will be wrong.  The TPS go in opposite directions because 0V means fully open on one and fully closed on the other.

Why do you think ignition isn’t working? How are you testing this?  If you are looking at the aux outputs runtimes screen, then just like the V44 they will say “off” unless they are set up as an aux output function.  

Does your 5v remain ok if you crank with the throttle body unplugged?

[max]

im not getting the same 5v problem now ive swapped the 5v and sensor ground on the throttle body so it goes from low to high same as the pedal.

im getting error 74 and i think it was 72 but im putting that down to low battrey voltage dropping the 5v during cranking.

and regarding me thinking the injectors and ignition not working i just assumed that as you say because the run time values were saying off and not changing to on they wasnt working if that is correct it will be a simple matter of the denso plugs will have gotten flooded and are now dead.

i have a log of the throttle and pedal all calibrated and working and under cranking dieing but it wont let me post for some reason

[Adamw]

16 minutes ago, max said:

but im putting that down to low battrey voltage dropping the 5v during cranking.

The 5v output should be dead stable between 4.99 and 5.01 at all times, you can view this on the runtimes screen, ecu status or misc tab from memory.  Check that it is showing 5v while cranking.

[max]

20 hours ago, Adamw said:

You have something wrong with your wiring.  When you start cranking the 5V output gets overloaded/shorted to ground and the TP main input is seeing more than 5v at all times.  Unplug the throttle body and see if the 5v out then returns to stable, if it does then it probably means you have the throttle pinout wrong.

 

everything is dropping volt wise on cranking temp sensor map sensor 5 volt ecu voltage I will start unplugging a component at a time to see what it is

[Brad Burnett]

1 hour ago, max said:

 

everything is dropping volt wise on cranking temp sensor map sensor 5 volt ecu voltage I will start unplugging a component at a time to see what it is

I would disconnect all sensors then check what your 5 volt looks like

then crank the car as you attach each one back.

[max]

1 hour ago, Brad Burnett said:

I would disconnect all sensors then check what your 5 volt looks like

then crank the car as you attach each one back.

ok will do and report back tomorrow thanks all for the help so far

[max]

all sorted the internal wideband was hooked up to the 5v instead of 12v thanks for the help