AE86 4A-GE initial start issue

[AE86Steve]

Looking for some support with the initial start of my 4a-ge. Car is turning over but not starting at all.

Things I've checked/know:
Running an Atom X ECU
Engine cranks over
Fuel pump primes 
Ignition/injector tests carried out and all work correctly
Ignition/injector set as sequential firing
Base ignition timing has been set with timing light 10BTDC (75BTDC offset)
Car is running COP conversion (MRP kit, distributor blanked)
Car is running Flo's crank trigger kit (36-1)

Car is only running a TPS (calibrated), no MAP, as using ITB's

Any support would be greatly appreciated.

[Adamw]

Did you try the offset at -285?  You could just be 360 out, sparking on the exhaust stroke.

Otherwise, do us a short log of it cranking and attach that and a copy of your map.

[AE86Steve]

Thanks for getting back to me Adam. 

Have tried with -285 as well but no sign of life.  I've attached the base map and log.  Map may be way off, first timer here. 

AE86 self start map.pclx First start error log.llgx

[Adamw]

Looking at you map it has sync set to none which wont work for sequential or direct spark.  Have you removed the distributor altogether or is it still there as a cam sensor only?

[AE86Steve]

Hi Adam, distributor has been removed altogether and blanked. However, I do still have the dizzy if required. No way of making it work sequentially just with a crank trigger?

Or can I run a wasted spark setup instead without adding the dizzy/CAS sensor?

[dx4picco]

on g4+ you cannot run sequential without cam signal.

On g4x you could do it with an extra map sensor on one intake runner.

You can run wasted spark with only crank trigger.

[Adamw]

Your options are:

1. Leave hardware as-is, Change inj mode to multipoint group and ign mode to wasted spark, coil wiring will need to be changed a little.
2. Put the distributor base back in, use the 1 tooth wheel connected to trigger 2 for the cam sync. You can get a billet cover etc so you dont need the old dizzy cap.  This will alllow sequential/direct spark.
3. Fit a MAP sensor (wire to AN Volt 1), connect its hose to a single manifold runner, and use the "MAP" level sync option.  This will alllow sequential/direct spark.

[AE86Steve]

Hi Adam, thanks for getting back to me.

All 3 are viable options. Would rather not go for option 1. Already have the dizzy base and billet cap you speak of to go for option 2 (pictured). I have the original MAP sensor and individual take-offs on the ITB manifold for option 3 too.

What would be the best option out of 2 or 3? Is one more accurate than the other/favoured by tuners? 
 

Thanks.

[Adamw]

The distributor cam sync is possibly slightly easier in terms of set up to make it work.  Two shielded wires to connect, set sync to cam pulse and away you go.  Possibly not as aesthetically pleasing so that may be a consideration.  

The MAP sync option will require three wires, and maybe a little more faffing around with triggerscope etc to get it set up right, but again not onerous.  I can guide you through the setup.

In terms of accuracy etc, there is no preference - all the ecu does is checks if a cam pulse or map pulse was received in the previous crank revolution.  All the timing and important stuff is done by the crank wheel.

[AE86Steve]

Thanks Adam.

I’ll go for the cam sync option. Will fit today and test. Where do the 2 shielded wires need to go to on the ECU?

[Adamw]

From memory those distributors have either 3 wires, the white is ground, connect this to any sensor ground - typically we connect to ECU pin 7 (next to trig 1 pin).   Then I think they have either a blue or green wire that goes to the top sensor, connect this to the trig 2 pin.  The shield should also be connected to ground at the ecu end - doesnt matter if it is chassis ground or ecu ground or sensor ground - any will do.  In the Link looms the shield and the trigger grounds all get spliced together near the ecu and connected to pin 7.

[AE86Steve]

Thanks!

Does the dizzy/sensor need to be timed? Can confirm it has 3 wires, white, red and blue.

[Adamw]

8 hours ago, AE86Steve said:

Does the dizzy/sensor need to be timed?

Not really, the only important thing is you dont want the dizzy tooth to pass its sensor at the same time the missing tooth on the crank is passing the crank sensor.  So anywhere else is fine.