Geoffp Posted August 26, 2021 Report Share Posted August 26, 2021 Hi, I am a learner at ECU's. My 1940 Ford pickup has a five litre Ford Windsor injected motor. It had been running an Autronic ECU, which I have replaced with a Link Storm Black ECU. I have managed to put the fuel and ignition tables into the Link, from the Autronic, but do not know how to add the injection data, or what it should be for this motor. The Autronic data says the information is User defined. The injectors are standard Ford 19lb/hr (195cc/min) units. It is a standard engine, not big horsepower! The Autronic data that the guy input into the Autronic used a Denso 2325050040 injector to set it up. The guy who I bought the Autronic from, and then the Link, has now retired and I am unable to find anyone in our city who is willing to come to my place, to set the Link up, so I can get the engine running. I have a problem getting the Ford to a workshop, as it is not yet finished being rebuilt. So, I think I need to know a dead time and injector pulse width in order to get the engine running. The engine is set up with the traditonal fuel equation mode. I am not sure if any of the above makes sense, but some help would be most appreciated. I live in Cairns Australia. Thanks, Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 26, 2021 Report Share Posted August 26, 2021 For deadtimes enter the values below. I took this from the 19lb Ford datasheet here: https://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/ics/m-9593-c302.pdf May not be exactly the same injector, but with such small injectors on a big engine the deadtimes arent going to be critical anyhow. Also short pulse width adder is irrelevant as you will never be commanding short pulsewidths with such a small injector. Leave the SPWA set to zero. I typically only use that above about 1000cc injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monsterbishi Posted August 26, 2021 Report Share Posted August 26, 2021 The ones I have for my '94 Mustang GT are: 3.698 2.85 2.003 1.687 1.01 0.82 0.71 0.58 0.49 0.35 I've attached my map, is for the single coil system with the rising edge electronic dizzy setup. Mustang 27-8-21 startup.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffp Posted August 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2021 Hi there, Adamw and Monsterbishi,thanks very much for the replies. My engine is out of a 95 Mustang, so it should be the same as Monsterbishi's 94. The TFI for this model has a separate module (not mounted on the distributor). I have a Bosch 124 dumb module and a Falcon E coil, with the factory distributor. In the next couple of days, given time, I will enter the data into the Link. Cheers, Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monsterbishi Posted August 28, 2021 Report Share Posted August 28, 2021 Mine has the external TFI as well, and almost completely stock so it should get yours up and running nicely, mine is setup with a link CAN-Lambda, uses the onboard MAP sensor and has a aftermarket intake, that's about it really - makes 180.7 whp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffp Posted August 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 On the Ignition setup, I am using a Bosch 124 "dumb" module, with the Ford distributor. Adamw can you confirm this will be set up with a falling spark edge? The installation previously had an Autronic sm4 fitted. It was set up with "negative edge dwell". I believe this is the same as the falling spark edge? Regarding the trigger setup, I guess I will still use the Ford TFI Trigger mode? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 Yes, falling spark edge for a 124 ignitor. Ford TFI trigger mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffp Posted September 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 Thanks Adam, I am working through a couple of other problems. The MAP sensor does not appear to be operating. I have a Delphi PS10075. It is not in the list of MAP sensors, so I have tried nearly all the sensors in the list, with no luck. "MAP sensor calibration command failed". If I make the "error low" value 0.00, as with the Link 1.15 sensor, the engine wont start. (it did run with the value set at 0.05, but still no MAP reading.) The runtime BAP shows 101.5 and the MAP shows 0. There is no doubt a simple answer! With the ign key ON, the sensor shows the following; (multimeter at Signal and sensor Gnd, using a vac pump); 0 vacuum, 4.82v; 15"vac,2.56v; 20"vac,1.88v; 24.5"vac,0.84v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 If ANVolt 2 is showing 0V, then ecu isn't seeing anything. wiring issue maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffp Posted September 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 I have checked the wiring from the sensor to the ECU "A" plug. There is continuity and volts there. The TPS uses the same Ground and 5 volt wiring. I have another type of sensor I tried, with the same problem. Perhaps I need to change the signal wire to another input. It is a Storm Black ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 If the ecu is showing 0V then there is zero volt. If you are sure there is voltage at the ecu plug, then you either have it connected to the wrong pin, or the terminal is not pushed all the way home or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffp Posted September 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 I think the sensor needs to be set up with another calibration, not the Link one? I am not sure where I would get the data for the Delphi PS10075 sensor. Changing the error value to 100 made the MAP read the same as the BAP. Changing error low to 0.00v, analog data voltage is 0.00, analog status AN2 voltage says OK and goes from red to green. The multimeter shows changing voltage with varying vacuum, but analog data voltage stays at 0.00. Ah well tomorrow is another day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffp Posted September 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 I will do a Adam suggested and have a good check of the pins engagement and will also try another pin number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 The calibration will only change the reported kpa - the volts will stay the same. Set the error low to 0 and error high to 5.0 for now while you are diagnosing as that will prevent the fault system from overwriting the displayed values. The reported voltage will then always show what is on the pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffp Posted September 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2021 Well, it starts! I had ECU data voltage set up at Analog volt 2, but had wired it to volt 3. Reset the input to volt 3 and it works. The idle is very high at present. 1600rpm. Now it is "only" a matter of getting the tuning good enough to get it down to the tuner. Thanks very much for the advice, Adamw and Monsterbishi. I feel sure that I will be on again soon, with more questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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