Scottw Posted September 13, 2021 Report Share Posted September 13, 2021 HI All, first time posting and sure not to be the last.... Just completing a 2.3 Na Ford Duratec, (Non VVT) (same as Mazda MZR minus the VVT) in a Westfield Kit car. No issue with wiring (yet) but really want to have the satisfaction of starting the engine after the build, not looking to run the car hard just a start to ensure no loud knocks before it goes off to the professionals. Does anyone have a base / start map. Apricate the pin outs will be different but that side of things is not a issue, it is the fuelling side that has my eyes rolling. Go easy on me :-)... I'm new at this and come from the spanner / distributor and Carburettor era. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 13, 2021 Report Share Posted September 13, 2021 Its not a real common platform so I dont think I have much to offer. I should be able to knock something up that isnt far off. Attach your map once you have the basic IO assigned and leave some detail about the engine - size of injectors, fuel press, compression ratio etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted September 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2021 Hi Adam, appreciate the response :-) No doubt I'm a few weeks away but will drop out soon. Thanks again Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted September 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2021 HI Adam, Have attached the Base map, pretty much everything is working, though for some reason get -40 on my ECT which i'm trying to solve. basic engine info 2310 CC 9.7 to 1 Comp ratio 330cc injectors using standard intake manifold (ford unit) using a high set of exhaust manifold with a wideband Direct spark Fuel Pressure set at 40 Psi set the firing order already much appreciate your help, no rush so please no stress. Cheers Scott First try.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted September 19, 2021 Report Share Posted September 19, 2021 your basemap shows 4.93V on An Temp 1 so check your wiring, it looks like the wire from the ECU is not connected to the sensor or the sensor isn't grounded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted September 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2021 Many thanks Vaughan, did not have chance last night to dig a little deeper on the An Volt 1, sure my issue :-) Vaughan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted September 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2021 HI Vaughan - took a while but narrowed it down to a faulty ECT sensor (brand New) - changed over with the Oil temp sensor and worked just fine on An Temp 1.. just to check put the ECT sensor on the oil Temp and it showed the same voltage... Last thing a newbe needs is faulty sensors to ruin my day :-) Vaughan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 21, 2021 Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 Im just taking a look at your map now. Has it got an E-throttle? And do you have an idle valve as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted September 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 Hi Adam, sorry for the slow reply. Yes I have an idle control valve and also running an E-throttle (I'm at work at the moment, when I get home later I will send over pin out's for these - sorry thought they were already listed on the file i sent over :-( ) Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 22, 2021 Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 They are already both assigned, just it is odd to use an idle valve with E-throttle. It should still work, just I have never used both together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted September 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 thanks Adam, again newbee at this - I was originally going to use an ITB set up with an E throttle but was steered to use the original Ford intake manifold to get the car through emissions testing before I start playing with new Cams and ITB's..... with the standard manifold having the idle valve I just "blindly" wired up :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted October 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2021 Hi Adam, Question on the Dash - Link MXG Strada I've connected up to Can 2 and data is flowing no issue between the ECU and Dash - issue i'm trying to figure out is that every time I turn off the ecu and start again it does not appear to be saving the Can2 configuration, even though when I set up and save it confirms the changes have been saved. I've not set up the Can2 on the Base Map I sent over to you, just wondering if there is anything obvious other than just saving changes that I should be doing? Many thanks for your help Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 1, 2021 Report Share Posted October 1, 2021 Are you doing a store? “Save” only saves the changes to a file on your laptop. “Store” writes the changes into the ecu permanent memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted October 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2021 Thanks for the quick reply as ever Adam :-).... I'm learning and yes I was using save not store. as mentioned in no rush just wondering if you had any joy on the base map? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 1, 2021 Report Share Posted October 1, 2021 Sorry I forgot to finish it off after the question about the idle valve came up. Note you didnt originally have an E-throttle relay assigned, so I have set it to aux 6 for now. If you dont actually have one then just leave it like that, if you do have one then you will need to assign the correct output. It is a good extra safety device to have (cuts power to E-throttle if something goes wrong). Pedal and E-throttle calibrations will need to be done, confirm all sensors are reading correct, base timing will need to be checked. Scottw Duratec 2.3.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted October 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2021 hi Adam, really appreciate this, will let you know over the coming week how i get on. I had a play last week at calibrating the E-throttle which all seemed to go fine so should have no issue with updating this one. thanks again scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted October 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2021 Hi Adam, Had a go at firing for the first time with no luck. Aside from a TMAP error that I have narrowed down to a faulty sensor (unplugged for now and in fault) i was am getting fuel pressure on the rail, sparking ok it does not appear to have any fuelling. Removed plugs and cylinder dry, Error log on cranking showing Fuel Calculation "Error Low"... Attached is the file - would it be as simple as the TMAP disconnected that would cause this? many thanks in advance Scott 790416129_ScottwDuratec2.3 first run.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 12, 2021 Report Share Posted October 12, 2021 A log would be better to see what is going on - but you certainly wont have any fuel with the MAP reading zero. Zero MAP means you are in a total vaccum - i.e. no air, so the ecu is not going to add any fuel. You could set your MAP error value to say 100kpa so that it gives a somewhat plausable signal when disconnected. It may then fire but wont run well with no map. Those TMAP sensors rarely fail - are you sure you have the pinout correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted October 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2021 hi Adam, The Map/ IAT working as you said it was the pin out!! Engine started, be it was prob only on 2 cylinder and of course running very rich. I've attached a Trigger scope be it looks very odd, also attached a log file for the short run which i hope helps, as ever it is the first time I have done a log file so hopefully i have captured enough data. Really appreciate your help :-). Scott log file try.llgx scott trigger scope.llgx TriggerScopeLog.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 13, 2021 Report Share Posted October 13, 2021 Can you do a PC log rather than the ecu log as there is not enough info captured in that log. To do a PC Log, click on the "PC Log = Off" at the top of the screen to start recording, then click it again to stop, then go to >logging>save log file The throttle is bouncing around a lot for some reason so that is adding lots of accel fuel which is probably explains why it is rich but I dont see the reason as there is no E-throttle related stuff logged. Alternator is not working. For the triggerscope you need to click the capture button only when the engine is already cranking, it looks like you have clicked it while the engine was stopped. The short bit of scope that is there looks ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted October 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2021 many thanks Adam, will have a go tonight. Ya, I noticed the Alt was not charging, dropping that back to the shop is it was a recon unit and after testing rectifier not playing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted October 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2021 Hi Adam, Attached 3 files. 2 PC log files under the same conditions on a short 15-second run, starts ok but very rough as you would expect with the rich running. (lots of black smoke once it stalls and when plugs are taken out you can see the unburnt fuel in cylinders ) Also attached a trigger file that is a lot cleaner than the other one. once again, many thanks - the intend was just to start and move before I send off to the tuners later in the year :-) Cheers, Scott PC Datalog - 2021-10-14 6;31;16 pm.llgx PC Datalog - 2021-10-14 6;41;02 pm.llgx Trigger scope 2.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 14, 2021 Report Share Posted October 14, 2021 Ok, something is not right with the cam sensor. A reluctor sensor signal is typically symmetrical in that its voltage falls below zero by about the same amount as it rised above zero - something like pic below. But yours only shows a small positive bump with little negative. I suspect it may be wired back to front, and possibly way too much air gap? Normal reluctor waveform: Yours: Something is definitely not happy with the throttle too, can you attach your tune also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottw Posted October 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2021 As ever many thanks Adam, I will change over the wiring tonight and to be honest I did get an oscilloscope on the cam and crank before I wired them but suspect I still managed to get the wrong way round, it is a standard Ford sensor placed in the original location. Attached the base map, no changes from the original one you helped me out with :-) 790416129_ScottwDuratec2.3 first run.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 15, 2021 Report Share Posted October 15, 2021 What is the throttle body on it? The settings look kind of expected ballpark, but it is very hyperactive. Can you set the PID recorder setup to E-throttle 1 and do a log of some throttle movements. Set the E-throttle to "run throttle" when stalled and you wont need the engine running to do the log. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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