And lets play with the DBW idle.

[kaptainballistik]

As I like smacking my head on the tabl,,,, Like a challenge..

I've been upgrading the car (as you do once you have it working, working cars are overated you know....) and I've ended up with a High Idle.. 1800 rpm VS the 1050 it is set to target.  1800 is JUST inside the lockout threshold ( 800 Rpmlockout threshold). I believed I had a leaking Injector base seal. After replacing injector seals and Fuel rails  It appears I have a much stronger Engine Vacuum at Idle now.... so i guess I was right?

Spraying brake cleaner at things (At Injectors) doesn't seem to make any changes to the idle.. So I think there are no new airleaks.

But the car isn't seeming to wind back the DBW Throttle below 2.5%. at Warm Idle... The Base Idle position is set to 2%  at this temp . The E-Throttle Target is 2.5% however at that RPM 

Am I correct in presuming  that the Base idle position is the Hard Limit for the % Closed and the fix should be to lower this value by .25% until decides its happy? or is the E-Throttle target what i need to chase?

 

 

[Adamw]

Ethrottle target table should have zeros in the top row.  Base position determines the initial idle position before closed loop moves it to achieve target speed.  Your problem sounds more like maybe the minimum clamp.  

[kaptainballistik]

Awesome!, I zeroed out the E-throttle table and it is a lot better. (and a little out of the base Position.. I Presume that's critical to stop hunting...)

With the Minimum clamp its 18 Deg, Should I be giving the car less Timing range? (so raise that one?) That side of the car is exactly as the 107 DAVCS base map is.

 

[Adamw]

Attach the tune and a log.  Idle ign min clamp I would generally have around 0, with target at 10 and max at 35.

[kaptainballistik]

Dropping the clamp gave it a Idle 10 rpm off target , so that's sorted!!!

 

[kaptainballistik]

Summary.. which setting controls the throttle dampening when you slam the throttle shut! Or do I just set the idle opening "high" and make the car then "pull" the idle down?


Ok, so the next one.. Dealing with the overshoot when you "blip" the throttle.  The Cars not bad now, but if you blip the throttle it will overshoot (target is 1050 rpm)  down to 850, the car responds then it'll blip back to about 1200 then back to 1050.
 

What a "Factory" 2006 WRX with DBW will do is try to hold the car at 1100 rpm for a second or 2, then drop to the right idle. The  fact the car now has a dirty long intake system for the front mount probably is causing the issue.... Playing with PID gives it a nice crisp response. so otherwise its fine..... And I think the issue is partially the Throttle unit has no dampening)

Is there a particular setting to try to get the The ecu to Effectively not slam the throttle shut and add some area under the equasion curve at that point? ( Idle Target Throttle is 1.5%, The car uses around 2.5%, SO that may be it, but I'm used to ECU''s that want the minimum setting and cant adjust +ve AND -ve)

[Adamw]

Log and tune please.  Most likely the dashpot setting or idle ignition not correct.  

[Lotussuper7]

On 9/14/2021 at 10:39 PM, Adamw said:

Ethrottle target table should have zeros in the top row.  Base position determines the initial idle position before closed loop moves it to achieve target speed.  Your problem sounds more like maybe the minimum clamp.  

Just seeking some clarification on this. I was under the impression that you had your main tps opening (for idle) in the e throttle table first row (zero Aps), and the base position was mainly used to increase tps position while engine came up to temperature, tapering down to zero when the engine was warm. I originally had my car set up with zeros in the first e throttle table row, but was advised to change it by a link moderator if I remember correctly.

But this thread seems to say the opposite.

Looking at the supplied e throttle base maps in pc link, they show non zero values in the first row.

Is there a benefit to either way when it comes to Idle control and dashpot operation?

I have my car idling fine, but have had some trouble getting clean re entry to idle (rev hang). After much work it is working ok now (Getting just the right min and max clamps) but it does seem quite touchy, 

 

Any clarification welcome.

 

Kind regards

[Lotussuper7]

On 9/14/2021 at 10:39 PM, Adamw said:

Ethrottle target table should have zeros in the top row.  Base position determines the initial idle position before closed loop moves it to achieve target speed.  Your problem sounds more like maybe the minimum clamp.  

Just doing a bit of a search on this topic and I came across this old post. It wasn't the reason I had changed my approach to begin with. However, seems a bit confusing. Maybe something has changed in the firmware to necessitate  a change? Anyhow, just want to find the best approach going forward.

 

cheers 

 

Tim 

[kaptainballistik]

7 hours ago, Adamw said:

 Most likely the dashpot setting or idle ignition not correct.  

AHH! Dashpot would be what I'm after  .  Let me science that first ! That part of the setup is all basemap config. from the V10 basemaps

[Confused]

1 hour ago, Lotussuper7 said:

Just seeking some clarification on this. I was under the impression that you had your main tps opening (for idle) in the e throttle table first row (zero Aps), and the base position was mainly used to increase tps position while engine came up to temperature, tapering down to zero when the engine was warm. I originally had my car set up with zeros in the first e throttle table row, but was advised to change it by a link moderator if I remember correctly.

But this thread seems to say the opposite.

Looking at the supplied e throttle base maps in pc link, they show non zero values in the first row.

Is there a benefit to either way when it comes to Idle control and dashpot operation?

I have my car idling fine, but have had some trouble getting clean re entry to idle (rev hang). After much work it is working ok now (Getting just the right min and max clamps) but it does seem quite touchy, 

 

Any clarification welcome.

 

Kind regards

As far as I'm aware, the advice to have 0% in the top table of the E-Throttle Target table is correct for G4X, but for a G4+, this top row is where you'd have your non-zero values for idle.

[Adamw]

9 hours ago, Lotussuper7 said:

Just seeking some clarification on this. I was under the impression that you had your main tps opening (for idle) in the e throttle table first row (zero Aps), and the base position was mainly used to increase tps position while engine came up to temperature, tapering down to zero when the engine was warm. I originally had my car set up with zeros in the first e throttle table row, but was advised to change it by a link moderator if I remember correctly.

G4+ should have the bulk of the idle throttle coming from the E-throttle target table, G4X should have zeros in the top row of the E-throttle target table and use the base position table only for all idle air.

 

 

[Lotussuper7]

Thanks guys for the clarification.

Hope your days are going well.

Kind regards

 

Tim

[kaptainballistik]

15 hours ago, kaptainballistik said:

AHH! Dashpot would be what I'm after  .  Let me science that first ! That part of the setup is all basemap config. from the V10 basemaps

AAAAAND Dashpot did the trick

The car is using the Idle Timing to pull the rpm down at idle so that can wait for the dyno