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Everything posted by Confused

  1. Link provides a small amount of storage space per user. As you upload images, logs, tunes etc, this space is used, and what you have left gets smaller. You can always use something like Dropbox, Google Drive, OneDrive etc to upload your files/images to, and link them here if you run out of the freely provided storage space.
  2. I was about ready to bin my Delco sensors, as I misread the graph incorrectly first time round! Then I took a closer look, and realised that actually, it's not all that bad in comparison! I then looked at the price of different sensors, and decided I was definitely sticking with the Delco ones!
  3. That's for a Narrowband O2 sensor, which doesn't have a controller. If you have a habit of sitting with the ignition on and engine off, your best bet is to power the LC-1 via a Relay, which is controlled by the ECU (relay coil has ignition power one side, ECU output the other), so that it only powers up the LC-1 controller after the engine has been running for a few seconds.
  4. I've seen PC Link "freeze" when making "big" changes like switching current active fuelling table, because it's got to refresh all the the "current" data on screen. Can you try doing the same test without PC Link running and connected? This would help narrow it down as to whether it's due to PC Link refreshing the data, or something else. Can you also post up a copy of your tune, and a log that has this occurring within it? This will allow the tech guys to try to replicate the issue, and to check settings to make sure it's not a configuration oddity that's causing this to occur.
  5. "+2%" in that dialog is asking it to "add 2% to the existing value in the table cell", and as you had 0 there, 2% of 0 is still 0. Your values in the 2nd screenshot will be closer to correct.
  6. If you've got a G4x ECU, as it says under your name, then it has on board knock hardware. All you need is a knock sensor wired up to it https://dealers.linkecu.com/Knock-Sensor-with-Loom-KNSB The G4x has a new "Normalised Knock" feature which, from what I can understand, takes a lot of the existing configuration and fine-tuning of knock control away, and gives you something that is much easier to set up.
  7. No, and yes. For setup and tuning, you must use PCLink, which is not supported on Android, you must have a computer running a full version of Windows. If you purely want display of data (and basic "dashboard" style button presses, such as to switch between different target boost values), then you could use RealDash
  8. Multiple boost targets can be selected using a Digital Input to switch between two, or even use a rotary dial and an Analog Input, and you could select between many, like using this AEM one https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/sensors-connectors-accessories/12-position-trim-pot Displaying current boost, yes, you'd need some kind of additional display - this could be as simple as a mechanical boost gauge, a 52mm configurable CANBUS guage (one example would be http://www.btigauges.com/link--vipec.html) or you could go for a tablet or digital dash. The possibilities are endless, really!
  9. I think that is one of the limitations, it uses a GP table which has lower resolution than the main fuel/ignition tables. So in theory, from what I've read in the thread I linked above, yes, you could set up the LTT table to cater for the area of the main fuel table you wish to capture now, and once you've got it closer, there's nothing stopping you changing the LTT table axis to pick up other areas to continue to refine.
  10. I believe so, if you want to use the LTT to refine your fuel table - which does sound like a good idea! I wish I could make use of it, but I'm still on a G4+!
  11. Is there a reason why you're using an external boost controller, and not letting the ECU control boost? The ECU has all the necessary information to know what's going on with the engine, and can lower boost as one of its protection strategies. I wonder if the tuner introduced the MAP limit to try to work around the limitations of not having boost controlled by the ECU?
  12. Take a look here. The Long Term Trims are stored across power cycles, so these are the corrections you'd apply to your fuel table.
  13. If I've interpreted other recent discussions here on the forum correctly, on the G4x, if you set the CLL and main fuel table to have the same axis breakpoints, your CLL table is essentially your fixed fuelling table. So, rather than using Mixture Map, you can use the stored CLL values to iteratively improve your fuel table, much like you would have done with Mixture Map.
  14. It will read 0kpa to 400kpa. 0kpa is total vacuum, 100kpa is atmospheric at sea level, 300kpa is 3 bar (44psi) boost.
  15. Under Chassis and Body -> Gear Detection, I use "Gear Detection Type" of "User Defined", then in the Gear Ratio Table, I put the value that shows up in the Runtime Values window (F12, go to the "Misc" tab, and look for the "Gear Ratio Calc" value) for the current gear. Repeat this process for the rest of your gears. I find this much more reliable, and quicker to set up, than trying to get it to automatically detect the gear ratios.
  16. You'll need to change E-Throttle table 2 axis from TP Main to AP Main.
  17. Thank you @Adamw for your assistance. I managed to get the Aux out working, by using the parameter of "AN V8 < 1". I tried hooking up Aux 6 to DI1, and all I got was DI1 toggling between On and Off. Setting Pullup or Active State High/Low made no difference. Have been able to successfully resolve it by sending Virtual Aux 5 out via CANBUS. Will need to do some CANBUS rewiring and reconfiguration to utilise both CAN channels on the ECU.
  18. Confused

    Speed limiter

    If you've got E-Throttle, then you can get easily make use of the Cruise Control feature! All you need is a set of cruise buttons - either one that has multiple individual outputs (and the corresponding number of Digital Inputs free), or one that uses a 5v feed and only needs a single Analogue Input, and a brake switch wired to a Digital Input. I've used a Mitsubishi cruise control switch on my 1967 Ford Anglia 105E, which is of the type that only needs an analogue input. This functions just like cruise in an OEM car, you can set, cancel, resume, increase and decrease set speed, and using the brake also disengages. Take a look in the Help in PC Link at the Cruise Control feature to see more details!
  19. Same here! I feel special now!
  20. Confused

    Base maps

    The G4+ Plug-in was based on the G4+ Xtreme. The G4x plug-in is based on the G4x Xtreme. There's no differences in the underlying processors, as far as I'm aware. With the Monsoon you get fewer features than the plugin. However - the Plugins don't always have all the inputs and outputs available, so if you're concerned over number of I/O, the lesser wire in might be better than the plugin, at similar price points. Having had a plugin, next time I'll be saving up for an extra month and getting a Wire-In Xtreme or higher.
  21. That seems to be by design. From the help file: Gear/Drive Corrections Being in Gear or in Drive can add extra load to an engine causing a noticeable dip in the idle speed and so it is often preferable to increase the amount of air provided to the engine through the idle actuator when this occurs. ·Gear/Drive Offset - Specifies the amount of offset to add to the idle actuator base position while the Neutral/Park Switch is inactive. ·Gear/Drive Idle Up - Specifies how much to increase the RPM target by while the Neutral/Park Switch is inactive. Only used in Closed Loop Idle Speed Control.
  22. You have no PID, your min/max clamp settings look wrong, your E-Throttle target table is mostly full of 0s, and your log has almost no data in it. In future, please always provide a PC Log with every parameter added - what you think is relevant is often not actually relevant, and it's parameters you didn't log which can tell the rest of the story. I suggest you have a good read of the Help file, and fill in this missing data, and you may find that it begins to function a bit better.
  23. Thanks Adam for confirming my thoughts, will give it a try!
  24. Hi there! I've installed an 11 way potentiometer, and bought a dial for it which has the numbers 0-10 on it. I'm going to use this to adjust the amount of Traction Control, and thought it'd be nice to have one of the positions as "no traction control whatsoever", rather than use up my rapidly disappearing free DI inputs. The rest of my table might look something like this. (I think 0 in the table will allow no slip whatsoever, rather than disable it, and that the maximum value is 50) Short of wiring up an Aux output and DI to one another, how could I disable traction? Could I maybe send & receive a CANBUS message to fake it, based upon it being at position 0?
  25. If you want to change from wasted spark with 2 coils to to sequential ignition with 4 coils, then you must use Ignition drivers 1-4. These are wired to Cylinders 1-4 in cylinder order. (AI1 to cylinder 1, AI2 to cylinder 2, AI3 to cylinder 3, AI4 to cylinder 4). Therefore, you will need to re-wire what is currently using IA3 and IA4 to outputs which are currently free - ie IA6, IA7 or AI8. If you want to stick with wasted spark, then you only set AI1 and AI2 to Ignition, and set the spark mode to Wasted, and it will deal with it accordingly. This frees up AI6 and AI7 for other functions.
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