Confused

You have two choices: 1) Get the password from the tuner, and then you can make changes 2) Overwrite the entire ECU configuration with a new one. You will need to fully reconfigure and retune. Obviously option 1 is the best, but if that's not possible, then you're only left with option 2.

You must power the relay's coils from a switched 12v feed.

You just need to change the Start Position.

Unless specifically mentioned, the ECU ground switches every output, and if you're using them for other purposes, I would suggest that you use them as ground switched. I'm Nlnot sure what the ISC outputs Aux 5-8 do differently, but I suspect that's only valid when in ISC mode?

The only way it would "lose settings" is if you don't Store before removing power to the ECU.

I see quite a lot of people using the 8HP with the HTG GCU, with a Link controlling the ECU, and bi-directional communication via CANBUS.

It could be a Error High or Error Low value set incorrectly on the Analogue Input, which could be that it's actually reaching a high temp (but high enough that it's triggering the fault), or it could be an intermittent wiring issue and an actual problem. But yeah, a copy of the tune plus logs showing this will definitely aid troubleshooting.

If you've got the same function assigned to two pins things can get a bit weird when you're looking at the result. So, if you're trying to use DI8, change DI7 to a different function.

As far as I'm aware, the fault codes are created when they occur, but "read out" in this case I'm a sequential manner (hence the "staircase" which then resets and repeats) when looking at the runtime value like you are here in the log, so the "fault" you're looking at isn't "live" with the current values. For most analogue inputs for lambda that I've seen vary from 0.00v for as rich as the controller can report to 5.00v for as lean as the controller can report, so setting anything other than 0.00v for Error Low and 5.00v for Error High, would, as you've found, trigger those fault codes with normal use. (Which does make it difficult to detect an actual fault, such as a disconnected wire...) If you've got a controller that can reprogram the output, such as an Innovate, you might be able to leave yourself a bit of leeway on either extreme of the voltage range so you can see any faults...

Your screenshot(s) are telling you what you need to know. TPS Sub - An Volt 7 - is currently showing 4.21v, and you're telling it to throw an error if it's above 4.00v - which it is - you're also telling it to not throw a fault if the input goes to 0.00v, which is not good either. TO GET IT CALIBRATED ONLY - set the Error Low to 0.05v and Error High to 4.95v for all 4 sources (TPS Main, TPS Sub, APS Main, APS Sub), and then look at what the minimum and maximum voltages are (the Open and Closed voltages that are auto-populated once it's calibrated). For example, if TPS Main spans from 0.55v to 4.32v, then I would set my Error Low to something like 0.4v, and Error High to something like 4.4v - this is just outside of the range of expected movements, but if a fault does occur, it'll pick it up. I strongly suggest, if you haven't already, to read the Help within the application a bit more thoroughly - it's exceptionally well written, and unlike some other manuals/help I've seen from competitors, it's not just a reference guide that assumes you know how stuff already works, it actually explains what and why very well. It's the very best Help/Manual I've read in a very long time!

Yep, there's a huge variety of CAN gauges and dashes, you can even use an Android tablet or headunut. As said, they're configurable, they can generally all show multiple pieces of data, and react to certain conditions to show you when things are not as expected - this change/warning is substantially better than a dedicated gauge for a single parameter where nothing much changes.

Probably similar to the wideband, which DerekAE86 has indicated - the (probably) blue wire goes to a spare Analog input, and it's probably a linear calibration that 0.5v = 0psi and 4.5v = 100/150psi (depending on which version of the gauge you have). Again, this value might vary wildly from day-to-day, the analog outputs on these older AEM units are awful.

IMO, ditch the AEM stuff (i.e., sell it onto some other unsuspecting person who isn't using a modern, capable ECU and wants a selection of Check Engine Lights littering their dash that they're not really going to be paying that much attention to when driving hard), and go direct into the ECU - for oil pressure a high quality sensor wired directly, for lambda a Link CAN Lambda module. If you then feel the need to have a visual display of what's going on, add a single CANBUS gauge/dash. Let the ECU have access to the sensor first, and react to the data, and then after that have a visual indication if you wish.

Unfortunately E85 isn't available here, but every post I've seen here with multi fuel is using multiple fuel tables... One thing that I've just noticed, you mention you tuned the VE table on E10, but in the blend table you're starting from 0% ethanol with 0% blend, and at E10 (where you tuned) you're already saying to blend 8% towards the second fuel - if the value in the E0 and E10 cells is 0%, then ramping up to 100% blend at E85 might give you a closer result? As I said, unfortunately no first hand experience, but I've been reading posts here daily for 3 years now!

When you run multiple fuels, you need to tune first with your lowest ethanol content you'll run, then again tune a second table, which will be with your maximum ethanol content you'll run. Then, the two tables will be blended together based on your current ethanol content (determined with the sensor). This is all explained in great detail in the Help under the Multi Fuel tuning section.

"Hedgehog" is the colloquial name we give to the fan controller on a Legnum VR-4 (as it looks a bit like a hedgehog with spikes on it for keeping cool), I understand there's a similar fan controller on Evos of a similar era. Looks like maybe the Evo 8 one is smoother plastic/metal casing. On mine, this is a solid state relay, and uses PWM to control the fan speed - but if it doesn't see this signal, it defaults to full speed. This would explain why you're getting full speed on the fans as soon as it gets power.

Does your car have a "hedgehog" near the engine fans? If so, this is a variable speed controller for the fans, and if this doesn't see a signal, it fail-safes to run at full fan speed. As for the others, the list of fault codes gives you a clue - for E-Throttle it's telling you that there's not a Relay assigned. It's often a good idea too to clear the fault codes and see which ones come back too, once you start fixing them, as they don't always automatically go away, and this gives you a refreshed list of what is still an issue. I would strongly suggest you have a good read of the Help, as almost all of this is covered there in great detail.

You don't have to connect up an output from the sensor to the ECU if you don't wish to. I have a combined sensor in my fuel pressure regulator, but I'm only using the Pressure side, so I have connected 5v, sensor ground, and the pressure output to the ECU. So, yes, that's correct

The actual voltage on the input is 0.00-0.01 (it flickers between the two) for position 0, and 0.07-0.08v for position 1. The runtime value for GP Analog 1 is absolutely spot on, and follows exactly. I forgot to add that < 1 as the condition also shows Active for positions 0 and 1, then Disabled for positions 2 and above.

I'm trying to set up a 11 position (0-10) rotary switch for adjusting the amount of slip allowed for Traction Control, but it doesn't have a linear output, so I believe I am needing to use the GP Analog function rather than GP Rotary functions. I've got a calibration table all set up, and the Runtime value correctly reflects the currently selected switch position. I would like to have position 0 as "Disable Traction" (0 being "no assistance", 10 being "maximum assistance"), so am then using a GP Output with a single condition to determine the dial position, and then use that GP Output as the Traction Disable input. However, I think I've come across something weird, where it seems to be adding or subtracting one from the value when performing the comparison for the GP Output condition. I am using PC Link 6.23.15 and firmware 6.23.6 If I use >= 2, for example, values 0, 1, 2 will all show as "Inactive" and then 3 will show as "Active" If I use > 0, it will always show Active, even if the current value is 0. If I use /= 1, it will show Active for a value of 2. If I use = 0, it will show Active for values of 0 and 1. I can probably get round this in the short term by inverting my "preference" (and Target Slip table), and have 10 = "no assist" and 0 be "maximum assist", in which case I can use = 10 for my logic, which does give the expected Active state for the output. Hope this helps explain the issue enough to try to track it down!

Perfect, thanks @Adamw for your quick response as always! Out comes the smaller drill bit to install 4 rivnuts instead

Hey all, Got a couple of CAN Lambda modules arriving tomorrow, and the "best" place I can find to put them at the moment (without drilling massive holes for the Bosch 6 pin connectors to bring them into the cabin) is under the car, near the gearbox... Are they waterproof enough to survive this? I do try to avoid going out in the rain much, but occasionally I may have to. If not... I'll get out the big stepped drill bit and try to find a bigger grommet than the one I was planning on using for the wires only

The most expensive option is usually to "try and use this because I've got it" Don't cheap out on ECU, it is the one thing that makes all your hard work and effort work nicely together. (The other thing to not cheap out on is injectors) You're going to spend less time and money overall by starting out with something new and modern than trying to re-use something old. Trust us, we've been there, we've done it, and that's why we're telling you not to, as it's a pain we don't want others to have to go through!

A number of pin functions can be changed through software, but not Injectors and Ignition drivers that are being used for Injection and Ignition. So, Injectors must be pinned to Injector 1-X outputs, and Ignition must be pinned to Ignition 1-X outputs, and you can't skip over any (i.e. you can't use Ignition 1-3, then 5-7, you must use Ignition 1-6) Whenever you use a vehicle specific ECU in a different vehicle, it's your responsibility to match the car's wiring to the ECU.

It's power ground, so a regular ground to the chassis.