Confused

I hadn't considered that the pinout you were trying might have been wrong! Hopefully a(nother) new pedal does the trick! Would be useful to know if the 0v/error thing not updating the AP Sub %age value was desired behaviour or not - I'd have probably continue to have only been looking at the AP Sub % parameter, and not the raw analogue voltages - need to remember to also check voltages alongside the % parameter in future if this is intended behaviour

Flex Fuel sensor needs a Digital Input, DI11 is available on Expansion 2. The V11 board appears to only have a single expansion connector available - almost all the other available inputs & outputs are already used on the main header for stock functionality - on "simpler" cars there's more free inputs & outputs that aren't presented to the main header, so they sometimes have up to 2 expansion connectors.

If you navigate in the Help to the page shown in the breadcrumb at the top, then scroll down that page it shows Expansion 1-8 in the pinouts Most of the pins are already used on this, but there is An Temp 4 on Expansion 3 you could use for Oil Temp, if you're going for CAN Lambda, you won't need the stock narrowband O2 input on An7 (pin B4) so could potentially re-use that for Oil Pressure. If you're ditching the MAF, you might also have access to An8 (pin B26) if your EGT outputs a 0-5v signal. At least that's my first thoughts, looking purely at the help Hope this helps a little! I'm sure there's ways to tweak things around - if not, you can always grab a CANBUS module and pump a load of extra parameters in that way

In the original log you uploaded, all of the pedal depressions look vaguely similar to me - I am showing the AP percentage, you're showing voltages... Looking a bit closer, AP (Main) has an Error Low/High value of 0v/5.00v (which essentially disables error checking), whereas AP (Sub) has an Error Low/High value of 0.05/4.95v, and a 100% value of 4.97v - I think you're seeing 4.97v as you go to WOT, it's "erroring" to 0v a little while later, but not updating the AP (Sub) percentage I was viewing ( @Adamw @Vaughan could this be a bug, or is this desired behaviour?). As you come off throttle, it drops through ~4.94v (which is no longer an error condition, and it jumps it up back to 100%) as it goes open circuit, where it slowly decays. You've also got AP Sub 100% set to 0% too, which probably isn't correct, either! The second log does look janky to me too, so yes, that pedal potentially is knackered!! No personal experiences of these pedals, but it does seem like it's a WOT switch only in these - I wouldn't spend any more money on another!

I think you are right - this second "sensor" is nothing more than a Wide-Open-Throttle switch. I think the "slow decay" when releasing will be the voltage stabilising to 0v when the switch is disengaged and the input is floating. Unfortunately - this isn't ideal for use with E-Throttle, so the ideal thing would be to replace it with a different pedal which has two definitive sensor outputs. The slightly less risky alternative, if you can't change the pedal and must do this, and I would recommend you don't, is to take the AP (Main) signal and also connect it to Volt 2 - this will give the ECU two inputs that do roughly what is expected, and you can gain some of the safety features (it will track errors on the throttle body itself, and shut down power etc) but won't save you from a fault with the APS sensor.

Firstly, are you in Modelled fuel mode? If not, then the number in the fuel table has no relevance to VE whatsoever, and you can stop here! Secondly, what injectors? Are you sure you have the correct Flow Rate, dead times, Short Width Pulse Adder (if supplied). Thirdly, have you tuned things like injection angle, Charge Temp Approximation? There are a huge number of various parameters (all described in much better detail than I can do here in the Help) which determine the fuelling, and the number in the fuel table is affected by each and every one of these. We'll be able to help you a bit more if you provide more details, plus a copy of your current tune, as there might be something that's having an effect that you're not aware of, so don't know to share the details with us.

From to the Help file within the PC Link application: (Technical Terms and Reference > Sensor Calibrations)

Your wideband is the X-Series, which is good, because it means you can use CANBUS to connect to the ECU, which will result in more accurate fuelling than using an analogue 0-5v signal. The "Help" within the PC Link software is FANTASTIC and should answer most questions you have, and it explains things really, really well!

My module is a different one to that, it's from a Galant/Legnum VR-4, so maybe mine is less sensitive to PWM frequency than yours is. Useful to know that higher frequency works for you, and happy your issue is resolved

Happy to hear you've finally found the solution

Your manual test shows that the controller you have works as expected - the more that the signal wire is grounded, the slower the fan goes. Regarding purely the Aux 2 based config in the config you've shared, to me it looks to match pretty much with how I've got mine configured on the G4+

You've downloaded and installed the latest PCLink software from https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/, right?

I have a Subaru throttle body on mine, and the TP tracks AP with the tiniest of delays. It looks like from the log that you're not actually driving the throttle home. It's almost as though you've one of the throttle's "Motor" pins connected to ground, rather than the Aux output on the ECU?

Once you've got a reliable sensor sending data into the ECU, and all the right protection strategies set up, you don't need a gauge, as the ECU will be monitoring and reacting to it much better than you could ever react to a gauge - especially if you're pressing on and concentrating on the road.

Have you tried disconnecting everything from the ECU other than main power, main ground, your An Temp input and sensor ground? Remove all other possibilities from the equation. If that's all good, then start adding back things one at a time, and you'll probably find a fault with something else.

CANBUS is definitely the way to go. AEM wideband controllers are notorious for having pretty terrible analogue outputs, so if you can avoid that by using CANBUS, do it every time!

The Help indicates that all Digital Inputs are capable of over 10000Hz

Ok, so 4x4.08 = 16.32 pulses per revolution from the driven wheels. As far as I'm aware, the Traction Control system in the Link requires the Slip calculation between driven and non-driven wheels - you're getting 16 updates per wheel revolution from the rear, ideally you want 16 from the front too. However, as I'm not totally sure, no doubt Adam will be along soon to correct me! :p Maybe it's possible with the new Math Blocks in the G4X?

Picking up on the diff/prop bolts gives you 4x your diff ratio pulses per wheel revolution. Assuming your S15 has the same 3.691 ratio as my S14 diff, for the same size tyres front and rear you need 15.84 pulses on the front wheel to be equal. (If your tyres are different sizes, that obviously changes based on circumference) Whilst 500Hz is often quoted as the maximum frequency input, a post by Adam here clarified that that's on a really busy ECU - V8, direct spark, 4 VVT channels, 8 knock channels etc - if it's a "less busy" ECU then you can get higher frequency reads on the inputs. I found that the "slip" seems to be calculated each time either wheel sensor gets an update, so when I only had 4 pulses per revolution on the front wheel, but 16 on the rears, the slip percentage would "step up" with the 4 updates of the rear, before being "reset" with the pulse from the front. Now I've added extra pulses to the front, it calculates and tracks much better, and my traction setup works much better - I have a twin turbo V6 with about 360hp, weighing 1000kg and 185/60/13 tyres... so grip is a bit of an issue! Oh, just realised you said driveshaft, I misread it... in which case it might not be quite as I said above! If you did mean driveshaft, doesn't it have either 3x2 or 5x1 bolts holding the inner CV joint to the diff? Or do you mean propshaft to diff?

If you're spending money on a new wideband controller, don't use analogue for lambda, use CANBUS. Preferably via a Link CAN Lambda, or an X-Series AEM, or a Haltech etc.

If it's the Evo 1-3, then, no, you can't use sequential ignition, because of the ECU Hold Power circuitry tied directly to Ignition 4 output and Digital Input 1.

On a Plug-in, Aux 4/9 in software are mapped to Aux 9/10 hardware outputs when configured for E-Throttle mode. I *think* you can also get away with using a Virtual Aux for the E-Throttle Relay, as the power to the E-Throttle drivers is "hardwired", but I'm sure Adam or Vaughan can confirm if you can't find the details in the manual.

So... did changing those areas of the fuel table improve the situation? You've still not answered that yet If not, can you provide a new copy of your tune and a log, so that the next step of diagnosis can be made.

Have you actually done what Adam suggested? Because that was the last piece of advice given, then you've come back and have complained that no one is helping, even though you've not said whether you've tried the last suggestion or not. If your goal is to drive it to a tuner, then you should be disabling all boost control, being extremely careful on the throttle pedal, and if you want, set up a MAP limit to limit you going too far into boost if for some reason you can't control yourself. With this, almost any tune that will run the car will get you there. Or, you hire the equipment or employ someone to transport it to the tuner for you. You've been given some help from the manufacturer, there is also the best Help/documentation I've ever seen for any product, ever, right there in the PC Link application, just by pressing the F1 button.

Ideally you don't want this, it should sit bang on 0.0% at idle. Perform another TPS calibration and hopefully that'll sort it.