Confused

Pretty much, yes, you can use it on different vehicles - you'll need to rewire to suit. That said, some plug-in boards do have some vehicle specific hardware or configurations - for example, the Evo 1-3 has the ECU Hold Power connected to DI1 and Ign4 - so these can't be used for any other purposes, meaning this particular ECU is limited to 3 ignition outputs.

You can use one of the various "cloud drive" services like Dropbox, Google Drive, Microsoft One Drive etc to share larger log files & tunes once you've used your limited allowance on forum uploads.

I added extra bolts to the front wheel, as my rear was picking up from the prop->diff bolts, so it was about 4x more resolution, which made the Slip calculations a bit iffy - in future I'd probably just do wheel bolts on both ends.

Yes both signals are analogue. You don't need to use a dedicated Temp input, but if you don't, you'll need to wire in a pull-up resistor, 1k ohm would be best. Details on how to do this are outlined in the Help within PC Link.

It's all explained in much more detail in the Help, but basically, it's the number of pulses the ECU expects to get from the speed sensor for every 100m travelled.

Please check in the Help at Wiring Information -> Output Wiring -> Auxiliary Output Wiring -> Wiring Auxiliary Outputs, and specifically the section "Avoiding Auxiliary Output Back-feeding" If you're going to be using an Aux output, it's important to ensure that one side of the relay coil is only supplied with a switched feed, not a permanent feed. 30 = fused permanent feed from battery 87 = output to device (fan, etc) 86 = SWITCHED 12v feed - this should ONLY have power when ignition/main relay etc is switched on 85 = ECU Aux Output

That's useful to know, thanks for that, @Adamw!

I use a Mitsubishi fan controller from a Legnum VR-4 on my Link ECU. The fan controller "fails safe" - if the PWM signal fails (such as with a loose connection), the fan comes on at 100%. The more Duty Cycle, the slower the fan goes - with 100% being fully off. I am actually running mine at 20Hz, and that seems to actually work OK for me - not sure what impact it would have being driven at a higher frequency? Here's an example of my PWM output table. As I have a chargecooler, I always want the fans running, unless I'm sitting with a cold engine doing some ECU configuration, etc, which is why I have the 30 and 31 degree lines to do a hard "off -> on slightly". The fan speed then also adjusts based upon road speed and temperature. Just make sure that your main 12v input to the controller is adequately fused, and is switched by a relay controlled by the ignition. (Otherwise, when the ECU switches off, the controller will see no duty on the PWM line, and run the fans at 100%!)

Have you got a copy of your tune, plus a log that shows what's happening when this occurs? For example, what are your targets? Are you trying to drive it to 100% open? Many throttle bodies don't like that, and are happier if only commanding something like 98-99%.

Don't forget to compare the Help too in both G4+ and G4X, I recently did this for an engine which uses the Mitsubishi GTO type triggering, and I replicated everything, including the Trigger settings directly, and it wouldn't start - a good few hours of head scratching later, I checked the Help, and found that they've improved the triggering on the G4X to use both Rising and Falling edge of the Crank trigger (which effectively doubles its resolution) - as soon as I changed this to match what was in the Help (not what I had in the G4+) it fired into life!

Glad you got to the bottom of it!

A copy of your tune, plus log files will help massively in trying to diagnose the issue.

And that was designed like that for the standard Porsche ECU for a standard car, where you are tied to a certain component on a certain input/output. The Link ECU has the flexibility to perform a huge number of varying functions on each pin, so the Link supports this, as explained in the manual (with, I might add, more technical reasoning about the inner workings of the ECU than they would be justified in sharing) as to why you might need to re-configure your vehicle to cater for this. At the end of the day, this isn't the fault of the Link ECU, and all the necessary information is contained within the manual. It's a shame that it seems to have somehow damaged a reasonably expensive piece of kit in the process, and for that you do have my sympathies, despite my matter-of-fact replies thus far

It's all in the documentation - relay coils, solenoids, etc that are connected to Aux inputs must be fed from a switched 12v feed, not permanent, otherwise the ECU won't shut down under some circumstances.

MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure, which starts at 0 for a total vacuum, and is only ever positive. MGP = Manifold Gauge Pressure, which starts at 0 at current atmospheric pressure, no matter where you are. Positive values are "boost", negative values are "vacuum". The MAP limit is, as you suspected, using MAP rather than MGP, so assuming you're at sea level, 0 MGP = 14.7 MAP. As you increase your altitude, the cross-over point with MAP decreases. So - for your limiters etc, you'll need to start thinking in absolutes rather than what you see on the gauge.

Nope, won't output a 12v signal from an Aux output for this purpose. You'll need to keep the ground-switched output, and use this to feed a relay which will then switch your 12v signal into your new pump controller.

There is a very weak pull up to 12v when the output is off. This is why you'll be seeing 12v on the meter. The output, when on, switches the ground signal. This is also why it's important to have most of your accessories powered via an ignition feed, rather than permanent feed.

Who do? Because what I see on the Link pages don't indicate that. Also Adam's reply above also indicates that maybe that's not the case too.

I think you're getting confused. It's a universal sensor for CW or CCW installation to a traditional cable driven throttle body which only rotates 90 degrees, not as a twin output sensor for use with E-Throttle.

Now that you know it works kind of as expected and the output is driving the gauge, you can start to fiddle with the output value, and make a note of what duty cycle gives you the desired result on the gauge. So, I would set up a basic table with no axis values (press X): And then just modify this single-cell table, and watch the gauge. Make it sit at a few different points, say 10, 20, 30. Then, once you've written down your values, you set up your table appropriately, such as: (Note, my configuration here is set up for metric, if you want your boost in PSI, modify the values accordingly if you're not already set into PSI mode)

Go to the Auxiliary Outputs -> Shift Light section in PC Link, and start configuring the output. The "Help" explains all of this really well, including some examples! You will run an ignition-switched 12v feed to one side of your light, and connect the other side to your chosen Aux Output of the ECU. If you're using an LED, don't forget to follow the instructions and add a resistor, as shown in the diagram!

PC Link requires Windows, and off the shelf head units won't be running Windows, they will mostly be Android, so you'll have to use RealDash.

Forget what the Mitsubishi manual says about 13%, that's only relevant to the original ECU, the Link reads 0-100%, and you calibrate it to your current TPS position. You could still do the Idle Position Switch way of setting the TPS (if, for some reason, you thought you might be putting the stock ECU back in), but so long as the Link sees a varying voltage from rest to 100% open, you're good.

Please also share your configuration file - this will allow checking whether things are configured correctly.