Confused

If you're talking about Master Fuel, then you must still be in "Traditional" mode, so this is where you'd use the Master Fuel value to bump up/down everything in a course manner. So if your Master Fuel is currently at 20, for example, with the new injectors, I'd try 10. This should get you in the ballpark where it's close enough to then continue again.

You should check base timing and trigger offset - it's probably close from the basemap, but every car does vary. Then all the other tests - check that it's sparking on all 4, injectors are pulsing on all 4 etc.

Facebook is terrible for anyone coming later (even an hour later and you can struggle to find a post you know you've seen before!) - forums are definitely where it's at. The Help within the PC Link application is also utterly fantastic - it doesn't just only tell you what the buttons are, but it actually also explains a lot of the theory and why, you will learn a lot from that, plus browsing this forum.

Don't forget the massive amount of help you can get from here. For the basics, you could start with any base map, if you've got good injector data, then you could use the Monsoon sample for the basic shape of the fuel table and an ignition table. The Trigger Scope can be used to help pick the correct triggering settings, and all other inputs and outputs are down to how you wire it up. Once you have it basically running, any half competent tuner should be able to do the rest.

The Link CAN Lambda module can drive the heater in the sensor very accurately and quickly, and this can draw a large amount of current. Some people have found that re-using stock wiring isn't sufficient for the requirements, and have various power-related run-time errors with it. Adding the capacitor at the point of installation can assist with these periods of high power draw, without requiring time and effort to troubleshoot and rectify later. Ideally you'd want an ignition switched power source, the cigarette lighter is usually designed to turn off during cranking - potentially the module will be OK with losing power briefly during cranking, but something also to watch out for.

In addition to the suggestion above about dwell times, also leading/trailing edge settings could be incorrect, so worth checking.

You're going to need to supply more information than a blurry photo and a tiny screenshot. Please upload a copy of your tune (File -> Save As), if you have a log file that covers this error, share that too. Please also perform a Trigger Scope, and share the resulting log of that. Also share details of any other modifications you may have.

I would say that your power supply to the Can Lambda module isn't up to scratch. Might help adding the capacitor as shown in the alternative wiring diagram.

The configuration supplied is only supposed to get you basically up and running - tweak the Master Fuel value until it's closer to 14.7 at idle, this should allow you to drive it onto a trailer/transporter, off the other end, and onto your tuner's dyno.

The advantage to the Fury is inbuilt Lambda, so you don't need any extra device(s). The advantage to the Xtreme is 2 extra analog inputs (10 & 11) and two extra Ignition outputs (7 & 8). Other than that, the features of the two ECUs are identical. If those analogue inputs or aux/Ign outputs are required for what you want to do, then the Xtreme might be the better option, but if you're not going to be running out of inputs/outputs with the Fury... I wouldn't use analog input for lambda with either option!

A video pointing the camera out of the door doesn't help us diagnose anything. Supplying a copy of your tune, plus a log file which shows the issue, as Adam asked, will allow us to help.

I'd expect the thermostat to be around the 82-88 degree C point, which is then the minimum you should ever be able to get to, even driving at high road speed/low load, no matter how big your radiator is. Unless you do truly have a ~70 degree C thermostat, which would be unusual, I'd suggest that there's actually a mechanical problem here to sort out.

This is where you use the Multiplier from the ECU, for example you multiply Lambda by 1000, transmit it as an integer, then once you've got the integer in the Arduino, divide it by 1000 again. So lambda 1.25 gets converted & sent as 1250

Please also share your tune/configuration - the pclx file. If it's a repeatable 15 seconds, it sounds like it could be some kind of cold start fuelling value which is decaying over/after this period.

This would be a really nice, hopefully relatively simple Quality Of Life update to include in G4+

The Evo 1-3 has circuitry on the board that's linked to Ignition 4 and Digital Input 1 for the ECU Hold Power. It's not possible to go fully sequential ignition on this ECU.

Happy that you've found too that the Help has been useful! I'm sure if you'd have asked we could have helped guide you through getting the AEM UEGO up and running! However, yes, the Link CAN Lambda module should be a much better choice, as it has bi-directional communication with the ECU, so should help extend sensor life. The main thing to watch out with the Link CAN Lambda is that you get the power supply wiring right - its a good idea to use the 22uF capacitor as mentioned in the "Alternative wiring" across the power and ground.

I think you've got your polarity round the wrong way. Aux 9 should be connected to the +ve for the throttle body motor, and Aux 10 should be connected to the -ve for the motor.

G4X has a Virtual Fuel Tank, and one of the parameters is Accumulated Distance. If you set this to not reset, and you don't use the "per tank" fuel filling options, then this might give you what you're after?

The G4X supports 10kHz on its inputs, so you can just use the ABS sensors as they are. It's only the G4+, with its slower processor, which can struggle with input frequency when the processor is very busy (8 cylinders, fully sequential fuel & ignition, 4x VVT etc)

If it was previously wasted spark, you might need to change your Trigger Offset by 360 degrees - you may now be trying to fire on the exhaust stroke.

If you look closely, you'll see the top-most track has a break in it (at about 1 o'clock), and the right-most side is connected right around the outside to VC - this is for, in this instance, an Idle Switch (some use this principle for a Wide Open Throttle switch), as opposed to a dual tracking one. Dual tracking often have 6 pins, doubling up on 5v and ground inputs.

I think that the Engine Fan functionality possibly doesn't enable the output until the engine has been started. But if you set up the same set of PWM tables not defined as an Engine Fan, this applies as soon as the ECU powers up.

I'm using a couple of the cheap 10" universal reversible jobs from eBay/China. So most likely brushed.

I'm essentially using a SSR for mine, here's some details of how I've set mine up. I don't use the Engine Fan functionality, but just a GP PWM output with the table axis set up with whatever parameters - mine is ECT and road speed, based upon what my stock engine ECU did.