Confused

As far as I'm aware, if you can't get the password from the original tuner, all you can do is load in a new config, overwriting everything, and you will unfortunately need to start from scratch. Before you do this, you should save off a copy of the current tune - you can't edit it, but I think you can save & reload a saved tune.

You're going to have to give us some more info then. How is the module powered? How are the CAN wires connected to the ECU? Share a copy of your .pclx configuration as it is currently. They're very simple devices, that only require 4 wires connecting, and a pretty simple configuration if you follow the well-written instructions. There's got to be something obvious that's being missed somewhere.

I use a Mitsubishi fan controller, and use a PWM output for controlling the speed. This one fails safe, so 0% duty (fully disconnected signal wire) results in 100% fan speed. I also have a chargecooler, so want airflow all the time (unless I'm sat fiddling with settings, hence the 30/31 rows to disable the fans when the engine is cold), but a varied amount.

You're going to need to provide a little more info here... but I'll assume some stuff based on what you have said... I will assume you're talking about the Link CAN Lambda sensor, and will proceed based on that... Yes, there have been some issues reported here (as you'll find reported issues somewhere about almost every single product every made), and most of them that I've seen have been to do with the installation using inadequate power supply cabling, or some kind of power-related issue. I have installed one recently, and knowing what I've seen here, I used the "alternative" wiring with a 22uF capacitor across the power & ground wires at the module's power connector, and it was detected and worked flawlessly.

With these two pin temperature sensors, it doesn't matter which way they are wired up. If connecting to a dedicated An Temp input on the ECU, nothing extra is required. If you are going to wire it to a normal Analogue Input, you will need to add a pull-up resistor to the 5v sensor rail. For more details, check the Help in the PC Link software, at Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Analog Inputs > Temperature Sensors

You've got at least one active fault code showing there. It could be a historical one from when you've not had things configured correctly, so clear the fault codes first, and see if any come back.

I don't think you've read the Help at all, there's many pages of information regarding how to set this up, even an example of a E-Throttle Target table. You're also not reading here, at least two people have asked you to upload a copy of your current configuration, and still you're only providing log files and a photograph which contains only a very small subset of the settings required for E-Throttle to function correctly. I would argue that, in fact, you do not want a 1:1 ratio, because a standard cabled throttle isn't a 1:1 ratio, and this will give you a different throttle response to what you're used to and expecting. The design & positioning of the wheel and cable mounting will have an affect on the throttle opening percentage compared to pedal position. However, it is a place to start with tuning your E-Throttle targets.

Share a copy of your pclx file too, there's probably still setup issues that we can't necessarily see from just a log.

Evans Performance Academy or High Performance Academy are the two kind of "go-to" places for this kind of thing. Are you needing to know the fundamental basics of ECUs, tuning etc too, or just the Link ECU specific things? (If you don't know the fundamentals, you may struggle with some of the more advanced "tweaking" parts...) Also - don't be afraid to just play around with the VTS software - connect to the car and save off the current configuration before you do anything else, then you've always got a working configuration you can go back to. When looking around, you can do this fully off-line with no risk of overwriting anything on the car. Or, to see the effects "live", whilst connected to the car - so long as you don't "Store" to the ECU, any changes you make whilst connected will be "reset" when you turn the car off. Also, the "Help" available in the application is fantastic, and really useful, and covers a lot.

Assuming your NTK controller outputs a 0-5 volt signal based upon Air-Fuel Ratio, this can be connected to any spare Analogue Input on the ECU. Likewise, a fuel pressure sensor can be wired to any spare Analog input, and the correct calibration values set on the ECU. Your boost solenoid would be connected to any spare Auxiliary/Fuel/Ignition output, and the other side of the solenoid to an Ignition Switched 12v feed. All of this information is in the Help accessible from within the VTS software by pressing F1.

In that case, you've got your answers above - you can use an external pull-up resistor to add an extra temperature sensor, and if you ignore the "Engine Fan" functionality completely, and set up your own GP PWM table with your new temperature sensor as one table axis, then yes, you can vary the output based upon this sensor But, you may be making it more complicated than necessary, I at least was just suggesting how an OEM has done it without a separate sensor.

Spark plugs with resistors?

The Monsoon base map will give you a good start - every single vehicle is different, even if fitted with the "same" parts, so you'll want to do a full proper tune anyway to make the most of it.

With my stock Mitsubishi ECU, and subsequently how I've copied the logic, it relies on only a temperature sensor in the engine. Once the thermostat is open, the radiator and engine are closer in temperature, and this is when the fan becomes relevant. So, I think you'll be fine without needing to add extra temperature sensors.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus The TL;DR is that it's a two-wire interface, which allows multiple devices to communicate with a standard format of message. The content of these messages can vary, and this is where different manufacturers implement things differently, so it's not just a case of "it's CANBUS, it will work". Do you have a more specific question you want to ask about CANBUS?

Absolutely no purpose of the stock O2 sensor in this case, if you have one or two working and correctly configured CAN Lambda modules in the headers. From the brief screenshots you've shared, I wouldn't think much is properly configured...

The top board will, but potentially the bottom board will need returning to Link to add the necessary connections.

Add to that, if the value the ECU is thinking it's seeing from the rubbish old AEM sensor is different to what is on its own display, then the engine isn't actually running at the lambda it thinks it is. I've just swapped one of these out on a car here for the exact same reason - the Link CAN Lambda was a breeze to install (I added the 22uF capacitor as per the alternative wiring diagram) and it's all substantially better now! I'm no longer fighting the readings on a daily basis!

DIs on the G4X can do upwards of 10000Hz. I've just picked up a G4X to swap out a G4+ in my Anglia, it's got E-Throttle too so looking forward to playing with the new features, so I'll be paying close attention to this thread too!

Yep, an existing Traditional mode fuelling table won't be much help. You could however look at one of the existing base maps, from memory the Atom base map is in Modelled Mode, this should get you a rough starting point to get you up and going.

You can use the current one via analogue input, but expect unreliable results. The newer X-Series is better with the CANBUS connection, but a Link CAN Lambda module would be much better overall. Then you can consider a CANBUS gauge if you still feel the need to see data, but you'll get more than just the lambda output.

What lambda sensor/controller do you have? A friend had an AEM, connected via analogue, and what the ECU saw compared to what the gauge itself was displaying varied massively from one minute to the next. Replaced it with a Link CAN Lambda, repeatable results all the time.

You can replace the TPS, but without calibrating it, expect various things to not work correctly. Another question this raises is that without looking at the ECU config/logs, how do you know you need to replace the TPS? And as was previously asked - do you not have any access to a laptop at all, or has your tuner locked your ECU? This is one of the simplest tasks you could possibly do with your ECU - install the software, plug in the laptop, open the software, choose the "Calibrate TPS" option in the menu, follow the on-screen instructions, Store, power off. Job. Done.

It's unlikely the voltages will match exactly. It's a 30 second task to recalibrate the new TPS, so you should definitely do it

Yeah... they weren't very balanced at all, were they! Good diagnostic work! And @Adamw with the winning cause as usual! I noticed that the 4th one you checked on the 2nd video was also still a bit low compared to the others - maybe it was just doing it single-handed whilst filming, but maybe something to double check