Confused

I'm not a Link employee, but everything you have said is based on other people abusing the functionality that is available to lock. The feature is there for a reason - potentially it's to be used in a single-model racing series, where the engines & ECU & tune are standardised across the board, and the ability to lock prevents the competitors viewing/changing things on their car to gain an advantage or figure out how to circumvent rules & limiters. Is it annoying that it's possible to get locked out of modifying the tune in your ECU - yes. Is it a big problem for "all of us". No. It is not a problem for me, because I would ensure that a tuner who I employ do so on the stipulation that they do not lock it, and have it agreed in writing - if they will not agree to that, then I will take my business elsewhere. If they do lock it during the process, after agreeing not to, I will not pay them until they have unlocked it, as per our agreement. So - how would you determine what's "allowed" and "not allowed"? Is changing a Digital Input allowed? Because changing an input from function X to function Y might muck up the tune - especially if it's some kind of parameter switching (high/low boost mode), idle switch, etc. Do you want the developers to add every potential function type to be in a big checkbox list of what the tuner can decide to lock or not - newsflash, if a tuner is going to lock away his "magic" then he'll just tick every box anyway.

Oh dear that sucks! Hopefully you've got a backup of how it was before you let that idiot loose on it - you can restore your previous backup, overwriting the current locked tune. (I think you can also save off the current locked tune as a file on your laptop and you can restore it again later) I would always recommend that one of the requirements that's asked of your tuner is that they do not lock your ECU - and if they don't agree to that (and spout some rubbish about it being their right to protect their work etc) then walk away. The ability to lock it is possibly due to some of the usage within motorsport where a set ECU & tune is developed and shared across all competitors.

I wasn't sure a few weeks ago whether my fuel pressure sensor was reading right, as it disagreed with my mechanical gauge on the regulator. "A man with one watch always knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure." So, I popped the sensor out, and T'd it into the feed to my ECU and boost gauge, then used a small regulator and my compressor and looked at all 4 together - the compressor's regulator gauge, the mechanical boost gauge, the ECU's MAP reading and the fuel pressure reading as reported via PC Link. This confirmed that the fuel sensor was reading correctly, and my fuel pressure gauge on the regulator was wrong. Swapped the fuel pressure gauge on the regulator for a new GoFastBits one, and it reads exactly the same as my fuel pressure sensor.

The TT (if I remember correctly) is a 4 cylinder vehicle, and on the Plug-In ECUs, not all functions are exposed to the end user - that's one of the design decisions that Link made and why the Plug-In ECUs vary in price, despite being fundamentally based upon an Xtreme ECU. It appears that Ignition 5 is one of the functions which is not exposed to the end user. You will likely have to use Wasted Spark using only Ignition 1-3 outputs. You also may be able to contact Link's support, and for a small fee, return the ECU to them for them to perform a modification to expose Ignition 5 for you to use.

On the Plug-in ECUs, you have to use Aux 4 and Aux 9 in the software for E-Throttle Signal 1 and E-Throttle Signal 2, but they control the physical Aux 9/10 outputs when E-Throttle is enabled. This is all explained in the Help.

With the original ECU, does your Evo's fan work as a basic on/off fan, or does it run through a fan controller module and the speed varies based upon temperature?

Attach a copy of your tune, plus a log from the PC with every parameter of what you can get it to do, even if it's just turning ignition on, starting the log, and starting out and it running for those couple of seconds. The fact that it does run at all means that fundamentally stuff is ok.

Yes, it will interpolate between columns. What you could do, though, is add one extra column before (at 7900) with your 7500 values - it will then only interpolate towards 0 between 7900 and 8000

You might not have a log - but can you share your tune?

Looking at the manual (https://www.glowshift.com/instructions/7-Color-Series/GS-702DL-WideBand-Datalogging-Gauge.pdf) it seems to be: Brown: 0-5v signal wire Black: Reference ground So - connect black to a Sensor Ground wire on the G4+, and the Brown to any spare Analog Input (in the example below, I have used AN Volt 9. For your chosen Analog Input, set the function to Lambda 1, and for Calibration, it seems to be 0v = 10.01 AFR/0.683 lambda, 4.99v = 20.00 AFR/1.365 lambda You can use the Cal 4-6 for this:

Do you have an electric water pump? If not, then all you're really doing is cooling the radiator - whilst yes, one hose is still open to the engine, the cooling effect won't really be as substantial as it would be with the coolant flowing around the engine.

I'd try the free option of moving it into the airflow to keep it cool, before spending any more money - as by default in the VR-4 at least, it drives two large OEM fans just fine. Can't comment on driving two controllers from a single PWM output, I'm afraid.

Have you positioned the controller in the airflow? On the Galant/Legnum VR-4 I took mine from, it was mounted behind the fans, which I guess is to help with preventing the thermal shutdown with the higher load. I'm running 2x 10" cheap aftermarket fans, so probably not as high current as OEM or higher quality fans, but haven't had any overheating issues.

I'm using a Mitsubishi fan controller and it's working really well. I think maybe your "issue" could be that you've got Switch Conditions enabled - you probably don't need them, and can rely purely on the 2d PWM table of ECT/RPM. I have a chargecooler, so want the fan always running to maintain airflow over the chargecooler radiator, but when sitting with a cold engine, making configuration changes etc, I have the top row to keep the fans off. You could do something similar with your top row at 69 degrees, for example, and that'll keep it off until the ECT reaches 70. You could do the same with the leftmost column for RPM.

You can Load the Generic Dash stream into PC Link to one of your CAN streams, and it will show you all of the multipliers, dividers etc.

Certainly upgrading the firmware on the Evo3 board won't hurt - never a bad idea to keep it up to date (or at least in sync if you've got multiple vehicles!) Are you sure you've got an adequate power supply in the Evo 3 - a good, thick, fused cable direct to battery etc.

You don't want to be starting a cold engine with a pre-heated lambda sensor - that's the quickest way to kill them - trust me, I've killed a few that way... and that's why the Link CAN Lambda module doesn't power up until the engine has been running for a while. With cold start, I wouldn't worry much about the actual lambda values - tune it by ear as to what sounds & performs the best. That said - it *is* possible to do so, with a custom CAN stream to fool the CAN Lambda module, but I would strongly advise against it unless you want to start destroying lambda sensors.

My understanding is that TEST (ON) just turns the output on fully, essentially 100% PWM. At lower duty cycles, you're likely not allowing the pump enough time to power on and actually build up any pressure. You could maybe try a higher frequency for the PWM, to give a shorter time between the on/off pulses, which might allow the pump to continue to spin?

That looks pretty much like the one I have. It should have ignition switched 12v (Brown), ground (Blue), and a signal out (Black), which goes to a Digital Input on the ECU.

If everything else was correct (deadtimes, flow rate, fuel table etc) then you should simply be able to increase the pressure, and it should actually recalculate correctly. However, if you're not finding that, then one or more of your other settings was incorrect, so you've got some of that incorrect value baked into your fuel table, and you'll going to have to retune.

You can probably sell on the gauges/sensors you've got to someone who hasn't figured out that direct to the ECU is best

Once you have accurate wideband O2 sensors - you have no need for the narrowband sensors. Adam was talking about using a Flex fuel sensor directly - this requires only a single Digital Input. It does turn on/off - multiple times per second - and the way it does this is able to encode both ethanol percentage and temperature together. You're talking about throwing a random extra bit of hardware which takes this lovely, pure, digital signal from the sensor, and converts it to a couple of horrible 0-5v analog outputs! (Much like the wideband gauges/controllers you're using are doing).

The ECUMaster CAN Switchpad has 8 analog inputs, 8 digital inputs, and 4 digital outputs. There's a company I've seen who are using this as a basis for a nice little module - https://rkde-automotive.co.uk/store/RKDE-Canbus-I-O-expansion-unit-p347885147?options=1,1 However, to free a couple up initially, I'd strongly recommend you upgrade your lambda controllers to the Link CAN Lambda. This ensures that the lambda reading is fully digital, and no potential errors due to voltage offsets between the controller and ECU.

Can you attach your whole tune file - there may be other settings which are affecting it, which aren't visible in your screenshot, and it also allows the log files to be viewed in conjunction with the context of the rest of the configuration.

Share a copy of your tune, and a log file which shows this behaviour, as well as "normal" behaviour.