Confused

MOT emissions test for your vehicle is likely to be at most a basic Cat test - it'll be checking for stoich at idle and free revving at ~2500rpm, and less than 200ppm H/C. You might be lucky and not even need the basic cat test, in which case it's basically a visible smoke test, so again, roughly stoich at 2500 will be fine - the Link ECU can definitely do that, plus cruising, plus power from a single tune.

Link's own CAN-Lambda would be the obvious choice. It'll give you accurate fuelling via CANBUS directly into the ECU, without the possibilities of analogue voltage offsets between the two units, plus it employs strategies to prolong sensor life, such as only powering up the sensor once the engine is running. Installation should be very straightforward, it requires only 4 wires - power, ground, plus 2x CANBUS wires.

In some ECUs, like my Evo 1-3, it's used to initially power the ECU on, before the ECU Hold Power output takes over and switches the main engine control relay on. Once it goes off, it starts the shut-down hold power timer, to reset idle speed stepper motors, for example, so that it's ready to go for cold start next time you turn the power on.

Firstly... F3 is "Connect/Disconnect"! F2 is "Save to file", Ctrl+S is Store.

You need to disconnect the first, and only have the 2nd connected. You can then go into the CANBUS setup, and modify this to be Lambda 2. Then you can plug the first back in. Out of the box, they are all set up for use singularly, as Lambda 1.

If you look on the left side of the bottom board, it should say exactly what it's for!

The power supply to the relay coil must come from an ignition switched feed. It is then grounded via the ECU to turn the relay on. Aux outputs are grounded when the ECU is powered down. I'm guessing that your relay coil is permanently powered directly from the battery, hence the fan comes on when you switch off the key.

If there's a suitable number of teeth to be able to evenly divide it by, then possibly. An example where it won't work - Mitsubishi ABS rings, where there are 43 teeth per revolution. This is a prime number, so there is no way to remove any combination of teeth and be left with an equally spaced set of remaining teeth. Or, you could use a frequency divider circuit, there's examples been posted elsewhere here on the forum before.

How did you solve the issue?

The G4x is the latest, and current, platform. It will be getting new features and bug fixes - G4+ will not. So, I guess you've now decided on the G4x. Next up is the various models. The ECU comparison chart gives you a pretty good idea of the differences - you'll probably want to consider one of the "Plug-In" versions, as this will, pretty much, just plug straight into your existing wiring loom, replacing the guts of your current ECU. The Plug-Ins are based on the Xtreme, so you get (mostly) the full benefits of that model - the only limitation is that a small number of the inputs and outputs aren't available to you - so if you're planning lots of analog/digital inputs, and using all the possible outputs, you will need to check carefully the Pinouts and what is available on the Expansion Connectors on the board - if you download the PCLink G4x software and install it on your computer, you can access the excellent Help file, which is one of the best sets of documentation I've ever seen. From memory, there's about 4 different variations of Subaru plug-in versions, so check which one is most appropriate for you, as wiring and triggering modes change between the different versions. Otherwise, you've got one of the Wire-In versions - these will need you to fully wire in the ECU into your car, but gives you the most flexibility and access to every pin you wish. Unlike some ECUs, once you buy one, you get all features available to that model, including any new enhancements, without any extra licencing fees. The ECU can be locked, preventing you from seeing the tune, and some tuners do lock ECUs after tuning, so be sure to ask the question of your tuner before accepting their service if that's going to be a problem for you - and if they will not agree to leave the ECU unlocked, find another tuner who will. There are a lot of "Sample Maps" provided too for a number of cars, these have the basic configuration done (things like triggering modes, cylinder count, firing order etc), and has a basic fuelling/ignition table that should, hopefully, allow you to start the car, get it up to temperature to check for leaks, and drive it under its own power on/off a trailer, so you can get it to a dyno for tuning - but don't expect any more from the Sample Map. It's not a fully tuned example, don't expect to turn the key and go driving the car merrily down the road!

I use a hall-effect sensor (this one to be exact) that picks up on the heads of the 4 bolts that attach the propshaft to the diff, which only requires a small bracket to be fabricated to hold it to the diff carrier. The same company also have a nice "period looking" electronic speedo, which doesn't look out of place in my 1967 Ford Anglia 105E.

I would treat these "base" maps as nothing more than a basis that will allow you to start the car, get it up to temperature to check for leaks etc, and to drive it on/off a trailer so you can get it to a tuner. IMO, they really should rename all references to these as "start-up" maps (or something similar)

On a G4+ Xtreme, the ABS rings will probably have too many teeth to give you working value at higher speeds. What you may be able to do, though, is pick up on the back of the brake disc/hub on the wheel studs, for example. This is the little bracket I made for my front wheel to pick up on the back of the wheel studs:

You may need to mess with the Master Fuel value to get it running roughly right (all of which is explained in the Help), but it should be enough to allow you to move it on/off a trailer, and then onto a dyno, under its own power.

Simplest way is to set up one of the Aux outputs (or a spare Ign/Fuel output) as Tacho.

If you are going to continue using the Evo 1-3 Plugin, you will need to go back to Wasted Spark. It's disconnecting 2 wires (that currently go into IGN3 and IGN4) and combining them with the wires that go into IGN1 and IGN2. It took me longer to write this post than it'll take you to change the wiring.

Upload to Google Drive or Microsoft OneDrive or DropBox etc, and share the link to the log.

Upload it to Google Drive, OneDrive etc and share the link here. Usually when people try to condense a log they manage to strip out the bit that's actually relevant, because they think it's not.

Your log file doesn't contain DI3 or Driven Wheel Speed parameters... However, to set the right values, open up the Runtime Values window (F12), then go to the Misc tab, and look at the value "Gear Ratio Calc". Drive the car at a steady speed in each gear, and copy the values you see in this window into your Gear Ratio Table. Here's an example of mine (the values in the table will vary for you based on number of pulses per revolution you're getting from your speed input) (Oh, and I think some functions, such as idle, run from the 'Non Driven Wheel Speed' - so you can set that to LF Wheel Speed too)

This has already been fixed, you need firmware version 5.6.8.3671, which is included in the most recent PC Link download. The firmware update within the application doesn't see differences in the final set of digits in the firmware update screen, so you'll need to manually select the latter version.

You're going to need to provide a little more information - your post doesn't really tell us what's going on. To help you best, you should upload a copy of your tune saved out of PCLink, plus a log file recorded by PCLink with every parameter logged, which contains the issue you are experiencing.

Following on from @Adamw's comments, could you potentially set up 2 different E-Throttle target tables, the 2nd of which is activated when the clutch pedal is depressed? That said, what problem is it that you are actually trying to solve that has brought you to the conclusion that you need to do what you're asking about?

Either your controller has CANBUS output, which connects to the Link's CANBUS, or it has a 0-5v analog output which connects to any spare Analog input. What make/model is your current wideband controller?

You can set a non-driven wheel speed lockout - so traction control won't activate if your non-driven wheel speed is below this value. However, this might cut power as the wheel is lifting (and slowing, therefore increasing slip). I believe you may be able to use one of the positions on the trim pot and a Virtual Aux to act as a Traction Disable "switch" (in this example, I've used position 1) by switching to a 2nd Slip table. Inspiration for this idea taken from this thread - I've not actually tested this though! But otherwise, yes, I think that adding an extra wheel speed sensor to the rear of the car so you've always got a valid non-driven wheel speed would probably be the better option.

Excellent, glad to hear it's all working The daily visits to this forum and reading every thread is finally starting to pay off!