Confused

Is there a reason why you're using an external boost controller, and not letting the ECU control boost? The ECU has all the necessary information to know what's going on with the engine, and can lower boost as one of its protection strategies. I wonder if the tuner introduced the MAP limit to try to work around the limitations of not having boost controlled by the ECU?

Take a look here. The Long Term Trims are stored across power cycles, so these are the corrections you'd apply to your fuel table.

If I've interpreted other recent discussions here on the forum correctly, on the G4x, if you set the CLL and main fuel table to have the same axis breakpoints, your CLL table is essentially your fixed fuelling table. So, rather than using Mixture Map, you can use the stored CLL values to iteratively improve your fuel table, much like you would have done with Mixture Map.

It will read 0kpa to 400kpa. 0kpa is total vacuum, 100kpa is atmospheric at sea level, 300kpa is 3 bar (44psi) boost.

Under Chassis and Body -> Gear Detection, I use "Gear Detection Type" of "User Defined", then in the Gear Ratio Table, I put the value that shows up in the Runtime Values window (F12, go to the "Misc" tab, and look for the "Gear Ratio Calc" value) for the current gear. Repeat this process for the rest of your gears. I find this much more reliable, and quicker to set up, than trying to get it to automatically detect the gear ratios.

You'll need to change E-Throttle table 2 axis from TP Main to AP Main.

Thank you @Adamw for your assistance. I managed to get the Aux out working, by using the parameter of "AN V8 < 1". I tried hooking up Aux 6 to DI1, and all I got was DI1 toggling between On and Off. Setting Pullup or Active State High/Low made no difference. Have been able to successfully resolve it by sending Virtual Aux 5 out via CANBUS. Will need to do some CANBUS rewiring and reconfiguration to utilise both CAN channels on the ECU.

If you've got E-Throttle, then you can get easily make use of the Cruise Control feature! All you need is a set of cruise buttons - either one that has multiple individual outputs (and the corresponding number of Digital Inputs free), or one that uses a 5v feed and only needs a single Analogue Input, and a brake switch wired to a Digital Input. I've used a Mitsubishi cruise control switch on my 1967 Ford Anglia 105E, which is of the type that only needs an analogue input. This functions just like cruise in an OEM car, you can set, cancel, resume, increase and decrease set speed, and using the brake also disengages. Take a look in the Help in PC Link at the Cruise Control feature to see more details!

Same here! I feel special now!

The G4+ Plug-in was based on the G4+ Xtreme. The G4x plug-in is based on the G4x Xtreme. There's no differences in the underlying processors, as far as I'm aware. With the Monsoon you get fewer features than the plugin. However - the Plugins don't always have all the inputs and outputs available, so if you're concerned over number of I/O, the lesser wire in might be better than the plugin, at similar price points. Having had a plugin, next time I'll be saving up for an extra month and getting a Wire-In Xtreme or higher.

That seems to be by design. From the help file: Gear/Drive Corrections Being in Gear or in Drive can add extra load to an engine causing a noticeable dip in the idle speed and so it is often preferable to increase the amount of air provided to the engine through the idle actuator when this occurs. ·Gear/Drive Offset - Specifies the amount of offset to add to the idle actuator base position while the Neutral/Park Switch is inactive. ·Gear/Drive Idle Up - Specifies how much to increase the RPM target by while the Neutral/Park Switch is inactive. Only used in Closed Loop Idle Speed Control.

You have no PID, your min/max clamp settings look wrong, your E-Throttle target table is mostly full of 0s, and your log has almost no data in it. In future, please always provide a PC Log with every parameter added - what you think is relevant is often not actually relevant, and it's parameters you didn't log which can tell the rest of the story. I suggest you have a good read of the Help file, and fill in this missing data, and you may find that it begins to function a bit better.

Thanks Adam for confirming my thoughts, will give it a try!

Hi there! I've installed an 11 way potentiometer, and bought a dial for it which has the numbers 0-10 on it. I'm going to use this to adjust the amount of Traction Control, and thought it'd be nice to have one of the positions as "no traction control whatsoever", rather than use up my rapidly disappearing free DI inputs. The rest of my table might look something like this. (I think 0 in the table will allow no slip whatsoever, rather than disable it, and that the maximum value is 50) Short of wiring up an Aux output and DI to one another, how could I disable traction? Could I maybe send & receive a CANBUS message to fake it, based upon it being at position 0?

If you want to change from wasted spark with 2 coils to to sequential ignition with 4 coils, then you must use Ignition drivers 1-4. These are wired to Cylinders 1-4 in cylinder order. (AI1 to cylinder 1, AI2 to cylinder 2, AI3 to cylinder 3, AI4 to cylinder 4). Therefore, you will need to re-wire what is currently using IA3 and IA4 to outputs which are currently free - ie IA6, IA7 or AI8. If you want to stick with wasted spark, then you only set AI1 and AI2 to Ignition, and set the spark mode to Wasted, and it will deal with it accordingly. This frees up AI6 and AI7 for other functions.

You should certainly make yourself familiar with how PCLink works, the forums here can provide you a lot of support and assistance, and will save you having to go back to a tuner every time you want to make a minor change! I would also make sure that you tell the tuner up front that you want full access to the ECU's configuration/tune when they have completed their work and you do not want it locked - if they are unwilling to to do so, then respectfully tell them to cancel your appointment, and that you'll go elsewhere!

All of these are possible. I suggest you download and install PCLink (if you've not done so already), open it up, open an Evo base map, then also open the Help file, and start looking at the options and the help file. The Help file provided with these ECUs is the best sets of documentation I've ever seen - not only does it tell you how the software works, but also gives you help and advice on tuning, engine electrical systems and ECUs in general.

The "brains" (or "top board") are identical between them, essentially being an Xtreme, but the differences (and limitations) come with what is made available by the "bottom board" (which has the car-specific connector plugs). The most obvious differences I can think of off the top of my head is that the 1-3 has the "ECU Hold Power" circuitry hooked into Ign4, so you can't go fully sequential on ignition. There's no E-Throttle pins available (on the newer revisions of the bottom board on the 4-8 they're exposed via one of the Expansion connectors). You'll have to compare the pinouts of them to see the other minute differences, but really for me it comes down to how many inputs & outputs you're wanting.

I think I might have found an issue... I think your E-Throttle Target Table should have "APS (Main)" on the Y axis, not "TPS (Main)"

You haven't confirmed if you've tried loading the config from Adam's last post - as you've not posted the log file from that test that he's asked for.

There's an example of hysteresis using a GP Output in the Help File, under this section: "G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Auxiliary Outputs > General Purpose Output" The Help file is VERY good! I've found answers to most of my questions in there! So, assuming you've got An V3 as your pressure sensor input, I think the values you'll be wanting are something like this (not tested, but interpreting the help file, and I think you'll have to use an Aux out, not an Injector output): Switch Logic = Cond (1 AND 2) OR 3 SW Cond1 = An V3 < Sw Value1 = 650 kpa SW Cond2 = AuxValue1 = ON Sw Value2 = 8 SW Cond3 = An V3 < Sw Value3 = 550 kpa

if that's what it was, then based on Vaughan's post it's not a fault, it's a user configurable output based on a set of conditions, that just so happens to be configured to turn on the output that the CEL is also connected to - doubling up the usage of that physical output to denote multiple things.

I found exactly the same - I came from a piggyback ECU, which I'd spent a lot of time (and money) tuning, and it was kinda OK, but the first drive on the Link was mind-boggingly better! With the excellent logging and Mixture Map feature, I've got it dialled in even better with a few iterations. I'll still be visiting a dyno, but hopefully it'll just be a small tidy up and to try to hit a few load cells I've not hit on the road.

MOT emissions test for your vehicle is likely to be at most a basic Cat test - it'll be checking for stoich at idle and free revving at ~2500rpm, and less than 200ppm H/C. You might be lucky and not even need the basic cat test, in which case it's basically a visible smoke test, so again, roughly stoich at 2500 will be fine - the Link ECU can definitely do that, plus cruising, plus power from a single tune.

Link's own CAN-Lambda would be the obvious choice. It'll give you accurate fuelling via CANBUS directly into the ECU, without the possibilities of analogue voltage offsets between the two units, plus it employs strategies to prolong sensor life, such as only powering up the sensor once the engine is running. Installation should be very straightforward, it requires only 4 wires - power, ground, plus 2x CANBUS wires.