art leong Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 I've been running a customized 20 tooth trigger wheel (60-2 with 2 of 3 teeth removed). A few years back when we were setting the car up we tried the 60-2 wheel as it was. but the car would not run over 4,000 rpms under load. The guy that was installing the V44 ground off the other teweth to make it 20 tooth. It worked fine. But I have broken (cracked) 2 trigger wheels. I need to replace it now. And would like to know if the upgrades will allow me to run the wheel without grinding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsh Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 60-2 works very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
art leong Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Do I set up the 2 blank spots just after tdc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsh Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 I dont know what is the "correct" placement, but in other standalones they recommend about 60-90 degrees btdc. Seems like the Vi-PEC handles it anyway. Normally the 60-2 cars I do, have the triggerwheels from factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Good morning, You can put gap in the crank trigger wheel almost anywhere, the only thing you need to be aware of is making sure the tooth after the gap does not line up with your sync signal. For example, if your sync pulse occurs at TDC #1 then you do NOT want the tooth after the gap (in your crankshaft trigger wheel) to occur at TDC #1. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
art leong Posted April 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Good morning, You can put gap in the crank trigger wheel almost anywhere, the only thing you need to be aware of is making sure the tooth after the gap does not line up with your sync signal. For example, if your sync pulse occurs at TDC #1 then you do NOT want the tooth after the gap (in your crankshaft trigger wheel) to occur at TDC #1. Scott Thanks Scott. My cam sync signal is about 25 camshaft degrees before number 1 TDC firing It uses a hall effect signal. Is there any advantage to running a 60-2 wheel over a 20 tooth wheel?. It seems I'm going to have to get some machining done anyway The wheels that are available are undrilled. Some I can have them t6ake the extra teeth off at the same time. I've been taking them off with a grinder, and possibly weakening the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 The risk with a 60-2 wheel is that it can limit the RPM as you have seen. This is due to some sensors nor responding correctly when the gap goes past. Causing a tooth to be missed. If you have the option of a machined wheel I would go for a wheel with 24 teeth all even spaced and no gap. If going for the 60-2 having the gap part filled like in the link below will help. http://www.linkecu.com/products/Install ... mage_large Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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