RobPhoboS Posted May 1, 2022 Report Share Posted May 1, 2022 I'm just trying and trying to get my idle working alright, so that I can continue to set up the base timing/vvt calibration on my car. Ideally without choking to death in the garage. I've pinched some settings from Timboj (similar cams etc), and generally just fumbling my way around this. I found that the idle base positions were causing non idling issues from the base map. Once it sprang to life I found myself wanting to get out ASAP as it's very strong fumes from the exhaust. Adam initially suggested changing the master fuel but it was soo strong (and made the plugs a bit wet), I took it down a hair (14ms base map, I changed it to 12ms). Strangely my widebands were working on a previous start last week but they didn't seem to spring to life today, which I guess makes it bit tricky to look at on the log. I'll try and find out why. Note, just using the stock maf - will remove it and put in a dedicated IAT and new intake tube soon. Log 2022-05-1 6;28;39 pm.llg Nissan 350Z Manual trans twin VVT G4+_v008.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 1, 2022 Report Share Posted May 1, 2022 Yeah, Lambdas not working is very odd, they are not reporting an error either. I suspect they will come back to life next power cycle. If you think it is still too rich then just lower the master further. RobPhoboS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2022 Cheers, yep will continue to adjust once I get the widebands working again! What's really odd is that ign on - I can see they're reading (after running the car for about 1 min or so) but once it fires up, they both read zero again. I made some minor changes to my map but nothing substantial, tried disconnecting them too. I saw this on the runtime page: I'm half expecting it's something to do with my battery. It's only 6 months old but even just cranking a small handful of times, I've had to go and charge it up. So I'll contact the supplier for that because I've noticed other people have that 'browning out' with similar issues. EDIT 2: Left the battery charging for the day, just came back to try again. Before starting the car - all OK in the CAN 1/2 status. As soon as it starts, those errors appear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 2, 2022 Report Share Posted May 2, 2022 Looks more like a wiring issue if you get those errors when Lambdas are plugged in and engine is running. RobPhoboS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 Really odd, I've checked (visually) the wiring, and the DT connectors - and the orientation of the wires going to the right places - all seemed ok. I'll try using the multimeter later tonight. I'd also disconnected an oil temp gauge to, just in case that was being odd (it was the main cause of a battery drain anyway, so had meant to disconnect 1 wire anyway). But yep, ign on, reads normal - fire it up, doesn't come on, back to ign, reads normally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 4, 2022 Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 Are they Link CAN lambdas or something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 6 minutes ago, Adamw said: Are they Link CAN lambdas or something else? It's the Haltech WB2 kit, which connects to the Link CANJST cable (I just put a female end on the Haltech cable). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2022 Hey Adam, or anyone else. With this cable, it appears that the power/HL isn't the same as usual Link cables? Or does it twist again inside the plastic block? Ie: on the male connector, pins 1 & 2 look like they go to the ECU for H L. And pins 3 & 4 look like power ground. Obviously that would cause me some issues if that's the case hah . This morning I've gone through the cables, recharged the battery, tightened a slightly loose negative ground from the battery terminal to the chassis. Confirmed the polarity of a 22uf capacitor (was a just in case usage). And then looked at this cable, which is the last thing I can think of. EDIT: Ignore that, apologies. Checked with a multimeter, confirmed that it's exactly like the manuals. My wiring is the same, with the right wiring from the Haltech cable to the CANJST. Same thing happens, go to start and a moment before the car starts it switches off the sensors. I'll try running a temporary cable to the battery next. I may also try the resistor just after the CAN unit too. EDIT 02: Ah ha, wire direct to the battery keeps them running! So now need to figure out how to set that up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2022 As mentioned, a wire to the battery direct solved the issue. I hit record just for a short time (I should have let the coolant get up to temp tbh but ran out of time!). So will order up some sort of fused relay thing, will hunt around on the forum to see how people do that as it's obviously something I've not done before. Thought I'd just sling these up just in case. Guessing something like this? https://youtu.be/KzB7StUNNuc Nissan 350Z Manual trans twin VVT G4+_v010.pclr Log 2022-05-7 7;12;22 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2022 I bought this, just to test it out https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TV9M1QR I wired in the fused relay yesterday, all basic stuff if nobody else has done this before (one wire to the batt terminal, another to ground, one to a switched ignition to power the relay on/off, and the main live wire to the CAN). At first I used the same ign source as before but it didn't work, hah so then I used a fuse tap from the fuse box by the battery (for the rear lights). Then it worked as expected. I'm not overly keen on using a fuse tap but if someone has a better suggestion or just to say, don't worry it's fine, I'll continue to use it. It's all a bit temporary with crimped bullet connectors largely but I just wanted to get things working. Finally I can move onto what I was originally asking about, overly rich start up (lambda reading around 0.76, moves up to 0.96 around 75-80 ECT). So onto the process of getting it to work safely enough to drive to a tuner! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 Also I suspected my base timing hadn't quite been set right, so I just re-did that now. For anyone else with a 350z, I'd say its worth using a spare HT lead from the spark plug to the coilpack, and read from the HT lead rather than the tiny little wires from the back of the coilpack. Looks like my trigger offset is the same as the base map but will need to test this out at higher RPM's on the weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted May 18, 2022 Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 There are spark testers that work great for a go between the coil packs and plug for this purpose. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-20610?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwspKUBhCvARIsAB2IYuubY5BMnLaTSMPSIGbTxDrAi7mZArUMIpoiCzsl8UYXEhQR2nZ96iQaAk8KEALw_wcB RobPhoboS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 Yep, I wish I had bought one of those, I just had another style one that is adjustable but doesn't connect to the spark plug. I think I was initially getting a reading offset of -20 when I looked last, and thought, na that's got to be wrong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2022 Just a quick question today: How do I reduce the rev flare upon initial start up ? (obviously my map is a work-in-progress!) Cheers for any pointers Nissan 350Z Manual trans twin VVT G4+_v021.pclr Log 2022-05-20 6;44;45 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 20, 2022 Report Share Posted May 20, 2022 Reduce the startup step. >Idle speed control>Idle up tables>Start up step table. RobPhoboS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted June 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2022 Just wondering if this is basically ok as a starting point with idle/gentle blips (will hopefully log a test drive this eve) ? Cheers for any pointers ! Log 2022-06-8 1;37;14 pm.llg Nissan 350Z Manual trans twin VVT G4+_v034.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted June 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2022 This is the first drive, there are a couple of seemingly high AFR spikes but not sure what's happening there (I was off the gas iirc and coming to junctions): I was really happy how this initially felt, no stalling ! Hopefully this link works?https://drive.google.com/file/d/19wjXT86scNmyDbR4eDUMffngU7vPNzJV/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 9, 2022 Report Share Posted June 9, 2022 Yeah looks ok as a starting point. The spikes in lambda are overrun fuel cut. RobPhoboS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted June 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2022 21 minutes ago, Adamw said: Yeah looks ok as a starting point. The spikes in lambda are overrun fuel cut. Thank you for taking time to have a peak at it, I'm really enjoying the platform and getting a glimpse at this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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