5S-GTE COP setup issues on a ST205 Celica

[Island_Racer]

Hey all,

 Can anyone run me thru their wiring for the coils? I am having a crazy issue where when i turn to key on (engine off) the coils hum like crazy and if there is a plug in the coil, it rapidly fires sometimes.

For the Sensors (racer x fabrication):

i wired the crank multi toothed wheel and cam single tooth wheel grounds together and ran them to sensor ground

the power lines for the sensors are wired to battery (through a relay) these are 12V cherry sensors right?? Can anyone confirm that red-power / black-ground / green-signal with the pull up between power and signal.

the crank signal i put to the NE pin (4th from the right on top row of ecu left connector)

the cam signal i put to the G1 pin (5th from the right on bottom row of the ecu left connector)

What do i do with the G- and the G2 lines?

As for the coils:

Im using 1zzfe coils where the grounds are all tied together and bolted to the cylinder head

 

the powers are all tied together and i use the original ignition coil power to run a relay that switches power from the battery to the coil.

the coil #1 and #4 2nd pin from the left (please confirm that one is the trigger) and tied together and run to the original igt pin (7th from the left on bottom row of left connector)

the coil #2 and #3 tied together and run to the pin directly above the igt pin (7th from the left on the top row of the left connector) there was a pink (w/black stripe) wire already in it but dont know what its for.

 

lastly the 3rd pin from the left (confirm that that is the feedback line) i did not tie or run to anywhere (is that correct)

 

can anyone confirm that all that wiring is what you also have done?? Or what i may be missing.

[Adamw]

Mostly sounds ok.  On the coils, which pin to you have connected to ground and which one to 12v?  

Can you give us a photo of the crank sensor - those colors dont sound like cherry colors - they usually have brown, black, blue. 

 

[Island_Racer]

For the coils (looking at the coil from left to right)

1. Ground

2. Trigger

3. Feedback

4. Power

 

as for the sensor, racer x fab sent me this as the reference for it. Ur right the cherrys are usually black brown and blue

i wonder if the rapid sparking/coilpack hum is because of the software setup.

 

 

[Adamw]

So yes it sounds like your wiring is correct.  The coil pin 3 is not needed.

I cant really think of anyway a software setting could cause that.  In the ignition settings is the spark edge set to falling?  

Can you disconnect the Ign1/2 wires either at the coil end or ECU end to see if that changes things?

[Island_Racer]

Adam, when i disconnect the ign 1 and ign 2 wires (igt and pin above igt) the humming/sparking on the coilpack stop. I also read the voltage from each pin to ground.

When the car is turned to key on and i get the loud humming/sparkin on the coilpack, the voltage from ign 1 and ign 2 are 1.9V

Other times when the key is turned on and the humming/sparking is low the voltage from ign 1 and ign 2 are 1.3V

What voltage should be there when the car is just sitting there key on and not cranking or anything?

[Adamw]

The ignition outputs should be close to ground most of the time.  I would want them below say 0.5V.  Can you measure between the same ground point and ecu pin 1 to confirm what voltage you have there when the ign outputs are showing ~1.3V

Can you attach a copy of the tune also.

[Island_Racer]

Adam,

1. pin 1 (E01) to the same ground as earlier

- resistance key off - 3.6 ohms

- resistance key on - OL

-voltage key off - 0 V

-voltage key on - 1.5V

2. I also did the following pins just because i was there

-pin 14 (E02)

-pin 26 (E1)

- pin 46 (E2)

They all came to the same readings as the pin 1 (E01)

I also checked the:

- pin 61 (battery) and got voltage of 12.4V regardless of key position

- pin 76 (b+) and got voltage 12.1V when key on and 0.1V when key off

 

I've added my tune file for your viewing. any thoughts?

5S-GTE COP issues tune.pclx

[Adamw]

So it appears you have a broken/disconnected or high resistance main ground.  Pin 1 should be very near 0V at all times.  

[Island_Racer]

Adam,

 So is it that i should just run a new groundline for (pin1) E01, (pin 14)E02 and (pin26) E1? 

Should i run them to different points or can i connect all three and run them to a clean new spot?

 

or better, where does the other end of E01 tend to end at? i could rerun that exact line if necessary.

 

any thoughts on the tune file i attached?

[Adamw]

I would try to trace the original wiring first rather than just replacing with new ground wires.  The reason for this suggestion is say for example the poor ground is due to something like a corroded ground strap on the engine, then just replacing the wires to the ecu isnt going to solve the problem - and the bad engine ground is likely going to other problems.  So in my opinion it would be best to try to determine where the issue is first, if that becomes difficult to diagnose only then try running new grounds.  

[koracing]

Primary ECU ground on the 3sgte is to a M6 bolt on the bottom of the #2 intake manifold runner originally.  From there there are three grounds on the motor - one from the head to the chassis, one from the transmission to engine bolt to the chassis (both of the aforementioned grounds are small gauge - 14-16gage-ish), and a heavy primary ground from the transmission case to the chassis (6 or 8 ga).  Pull all of these connection points at both ends, clean the contacts on the wires thoroughly with scotchbrite or sand paper or wire wheel or similar, also clean the spots they make contact to the chassis and engine similarly and remove any paint/grease/dirt/grime etc. that may be on those contact points.  In my experience on these motors that resolves 99.9% of the grounding issues.

Aftermarket intake manifolds or other parts can sometimes make people compromise where they put their grounds, but they need to be addressed and installed well and correctly to clean bare metal contact points.

[Island_Racer]

 so....i tucked away the groundline that belonged on the intake manifold and forgot about it when re-installing everything. SO yes, the car fired up right away. Thank for the assistance. This was a solid back and forth.