New PnP Install (Evo 5)

[Tim M]

Greetings!

Swapping the PnP Evo 8 ECU into our OEM+ Evo 5 today and have two questions:

 

1) The Link ECU 'frame' is longer than the OEM ECU...it appears we should 'break' off the frangible portion of the frame to fully install into the OEM plastic box/holder, correct?  Otherwise is sticks out a similar portion when fully installed.

2) Link includes a new end plate it appears to snap in and hold the ECU within the OEM box/holder.  But the hole for the connectors is too small.  Doesn't appear we should remove the 4 connections to install the end plate...more likely we have a 3 connector end plate for a 3 connector ECU rather than the correct 4 connector model, correct?

 

[Tim M]

Well, further research on the length of the board - we do in fact snap off the extension as Link describes in the Help section:

"4.If fitting to a short case, CAREFULLY snap the PCB extension off. It may be necessary to use a sharp knife to first score the break off points. Place the factory ECU in the packaging your Link ECU came in for its protection. After inserting the Link ECU into the OEM case, carefully fit the supplied aluminium end plate to the enclosure. Make sure the end plate is fitted to allow any cables to exit on the left side of the header."
 

[Tim M]

Well, nothing a Dremel can't make work...

 

ECU installed and reconnected power, then USB to laptop, and finally key on - everything came on including the cooling fans!

Likely this is expected...but not expected was the ECU Unlock Code requirement.  So back to the vendor to inquire about the code...why it wasn't sent months ago when we purchased this unit...

 

Good news is it seems to be tentatively installed correctly!  Hurrah!

 

[Adamw]

Sorry about the front plate, I agree it looks like it is the wrong one.  What country are you in? - I better get the sales guys to check other stock in case it is a widespread issue.  Can you give me the serial number as well.  If you want the proper one you can contact [email protected] and they can will arrange to get one out to you.  

For the fans, I do remember the Evo5 has something a bit odd with how the fans dual windings are wired.  From memory it just requires a specific combination of "active state" settings in the fan settings.  Try swapping the Active state on engine fan 1 & 3 one at a time in the >Auxiliary Outputs>Engine Fan menu to see if that solves it.

[Tim M]

Adamw:  Appreciate the reply and offer.  Our ECU number is 602033.  No requirement for a replacement - believe our modified plate will work. 

Our vendor responded promptly (on a Sunday night) and provided the ECU Unlock - which appeared to be successful!

We are located in Stuttgart, Germany...car is a JDM model.

We selected the Evo 4-6 7Bar PCB V1.5+ G4X Extreme Plug-In program to begin.

We did adjust the Active States on Fan 1 and 3 separately.  Fan 1 Low to High change - no difference.  Fan 3 High to Low - fan(s) turn off which is where we left it.

Completed a MAP Sensor Calibration - Success.  96.8 KPA with key on.

Completed a TPS Sensor Calibration - Success.

Fuel pump pressurizes for ~3 seconds.

Attempted a start, plenty of starter rotation, but no firing.  Went from 12 Master Fuel to 25 and adjusted the accelerator - 0 to WOT to in between.  Only got one combustion event and barely.  Pulled the plugs and they are dry.  We surely engaged the starter enough to see some fuel in the combustion chamber.

Car ran very well Saturday on the OEM ECU until we parked it and did the ECU swap.

Any assistance is much appreciated!  Exciting...

 

Edited November 1, 2022 by Tim M
Delete Image - too big!

[Confused]

You should check base timing and trigger offset - it's probably close from the basemap, but every car does vary.

 

Then all the other tests - check that it's sparking on all 4, injectors are pulsing on all 4 etc.

[Adamw]

That seems odd, sounds like you have all the basics there.  If you are sure there is no fuel then I would next try the injector test function to confirm you hear all injectors click. 

Can you do a short PC log of it cranking and attach a copy of your map.  How to do a PC Log if you dont know:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

 

[Tim M]

Confused:  I did not check the timing...we've got a COP system which means we will have to order/modify leads.  I'd assume we are close enough to start.  The lack of fuel seems to be the issue.  Thanks.

Adamw:  We will try the injector test - they are plugged in, etc. and OEM 560 cc's that have been cleaned and flowed.  Will do the log tomorrow - very helpful.  One comment is the IAT...the base program shows a Delphi AC IAT.  We have not quite transitioned from the OEM MAF IAT...not sure if that matters right now.

Thanks!

[Adamw]

I would not expect IAT to prevent it from starting.  In our base map the IAT error value is set to 100°C so with no sensor connected the ecu will be using that value, you can temporarily set the error value to say 40°C to make it more realistic.

The Evo trigger offset should be very close to zero in my experience.  I have only seen them significantly out if someone puts the trigger disc on back to front - but I doubt it would run on the stock ecu if that was the case.  

[Tim M]

Adamw:  Appreciate the response.  No issue on the IAT.  We do have a Link IAT installed...just waiting a bit before we cut the original wiring harness.  :-)

We did two logs tonight - one started after we hit the key and the other prior to key start (if that matters).  Also the program, which is Link provided other than the fan change and adding Fuel Pump status.  Please see attached.

Admittedly, we had more combustion events, but not running yet.  Adjusted the master fuel again - no change.  At this point we added Fuel Pump status to the visible engine protection and confirmed it still ran initially for 3 seconds and again during starting.  Pulled the plugs again - dry.  We have not performed the injector test.  Possibly Thursday evening.

 

[Vaughan]

You're losing triggers, looks like there was a fix in for the EVO1-6 trigger pattern in a newer firmware version than you have, please download the latest PCLink from https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ and then update your ECU to the latest firmware.

[Tim M]

Vaughan:  Thanks for the reply!  I was indeed running 6.21 Firmware...now upgraded to 6.23.6.  Reattempted a start - no luck.  I pulled the plugs and no fuel.  I did note the fuel pump is activated and used 12 and 24 master fuel numbers.  Took another log - attached.  

I also attempted to add the Link Can Lambda...not sure if there is indications I've done it correctly until the motor starts??

Thanks for any assistance!

 

[Vaughan]

You're still losing triggers, can you take a trigger scope while the engine is cranking please

Lambda 1 isn't doing anything, if you attach your basemap I can check your settings for it

[Tim M]

Vaughan:  Appreciate the response.  We aren't sure what triggers are, but we attempted a Trigger Scope as requested.  Please see attached along with the current program.

Offer a few other points:  we have gotten a few combustion events, but not enough to run.  Even a slight backfire.  The car is equipped with a COP system vice the OEM dual coils - would that make a difference (ran fine with OEM ECU).  Could I have damage the ECU during install (I wore the wrist ground strap)? 

I note after the firmware upgrade, the ECU info shows: 

MainCode Firmware Version:  6.23.6

BootCode Firmware Version:  6.21.12 

Is this correct?

Also, we have a battery charger connected and starter provides good rotation.

Note:  the wideband could not be showing currently as we connected it to the cigarette lighter...so may be 'dead' until the car runs.

Thanks for the assistance!

TriggerScopeLog 2.llgx

22 11 03 PC Datalog Starting Attemp Begun While Turning Over (Updated Firmware).llgx

[Adamw]

It appears your engine has a Evo 7+ cam trigger wheel fitted, it does not match the evo 1-6 expected pattern.

So, change your trigger mode to Evo 7-9, after that check trig 1 & 2 edge are still both set to all, do a store and give it another try.  

Set the master fuel to about 18ms if stock injectors, should be close enough to start.

[Tim M]

Adamw:  Success!  That apparently did it as it came to life...rev'd to 1600 rpm after leaning it to 8 ms Master Fuel.  Target Idle is 800 rpm...would this point toward a idle stepper motor discrepancy?

Also, the lambda did not activate - needle points to .70 always.

I would not have figured out that Evo 7 vice 5 cam trigger issue!  

THANKS!

[Adamw]

22 minutes ago, Tim M said:

That apparently did it as it came to life...rev'd to 1600 rpm after leaning it to 8 ms Master Fuel.  Target Idle is 800 rpm...would this point toward a idle stepper motor discrepancy?

Most likely just the base position table needs tuning so you are currently sitting above the RPM lockout.  Go into the idle settings and set the "RPM lockout above target" temporarily to say 1000RPM, then closed loop should kick in and bring idle down to target.  When it is idle at target take a look what your idle position is and enter that into the relevant cell in the base position table.  

 

25 minutes ago, Tim M said:

Also, the lambda did not activate - needle points to .70 always.

Will need to see a log and your tune.  

[Tim M]

Adamw:  1000 rpm did the trick and easy idle at 800 rpm!  Awesome.  Let it warm up and the primary fan energized and brought the temps down - excellent!  Thanks!

I played with the CAN Lambda more and didn't make any headway.

After working thru the install process on Mode Tab and CAN Devices Tab and unplugging the power as directed, the ECU doesn't see the sensor the next time I check the CAN Setup.  Rechecked the wiring and seems normal.  The wideband sensor install is same as my previous UEGO X-band install, I just moved the wiring over to the Link.

Attached the latest program and short idle log.

Thanks for the assistance!

22 11 05 1998 Mitsubishi Evo 5 (Idle No WB).pclx 22 11 05 PC Datalog Starting (Idle No WB).llgx

[Adamw]

4 hours ago, Tim M said:

1000 rpm did the trick and easy idle at 800 rpm!

Note you only want the lockout at 1000 temporarily to make the closed loop work while you adjust the base position table, it will not drive nice with the lockout that high.  

For the lambda can you set lambda 1 sensor control to Link CAN then check what Lambda 1 status shows.

 

 

 

[Tim M]

Adamw:  I can confirm driving with the 1000 rpm setting is not smooth!  400 rpm works like a champ though and updating the Idle Position.  Nice 800 rpm idle.  Obviously, I was able to get a maiden voyage in and ran quite well - very impressed - thanks to the Link Team.

Furthermore, I did miss that last CAN Lambda step and once updated...walah!  We have a wideband.  I then proceeded to quick tune to get it closer...bit of fun working to get each cell 'targeted'.  Only about 50 cells updated, but it is running very well even with a bit of boost!

 

[Tim M]

The Quick Tune is most impressive!  Got ~50 cells updated while driving around with various loads.  Main reason I elected to go with this system.  Impressive!

[Tim M]

Ok - looking to get into positive manifold pressure and the original (blueprinted) 560 cc injectors may not be enough.

I'd like to install 1050 Injector Dynamic injectors - plug in setup.  I have found the Dead Time and Short Pulse Width Adder information on ID's website.

Must I also decrease the fuel map (or Master Fuel) by an associated amount?  ie 1050 is 53% larger so decrease the current overall fuel map by 53%?

And yes, I do plan to seek professional tuning assistance to minimize possible damage on my learning of tuning a turbo engine. 

Thanks!

[Confused]

If you're talking about Master Fuel, then you must still be in "Traditional" mode, so this is where you'd use the Master Fuel value to bump up/down everything in a course manner.

So if your Master Fuel is currently at 20, for example, with the new injectors, I'd try 10. This should get you in the ballpark where it's close enough to then continue again.

[Tim M]

Confused:  Appreciate the response.  Wasn't sure if there was another setting to ID the CC of the injector.  My Master Fuel is currently at 10, so pretty small number.  I can reset at 5.3.

Thanks!

Also wired my Link IAT sensor in and seems to work as advertised.  I was confused when it stated to select 'Analog Channel' in the Configuration Tree.  Analog Inputs is where it is found (yes, I'm literal!)  Also selected the Link IAT1-8 in the drop down.  Presto!