Adamw Posted January 12, 2023 Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 We dont have G35's over here but assuming it is similar to the 350Z, there were originally four O2 sensors, 2 in front on the cats and 2 behind the cats. It sounds like your turbo kit only allows for 3. Can you confirm if the CAN lambdas are in the manifolds before the turbo/s and not after? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TranzerZ Posted January 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2023 I have a single turbo setup. I recalled seeing the two CAN-Lambda O2 sensors connected right after the manifolds, one on each side, before the turbo, but I'll double check when I have time. The 3rd O2 sensor was connected after the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TranzerZ Posted January 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2023 It's been a long rainy weekend again but the O2 sensors are placed at the locations I mentioned above. Ok, so couple more things I need help on. First, I could not get my boost solenoid to respond with Link. I could not hear it clicking when doing the test so instead, I just went ahead and bought one expansion loom and the Link IAT sensor and will just wire them directly. I have not opened up the ECU but I'm assuming there are 2 ports to connect the loom? Expansion 1-8 or 9-16? So for the boost solenoid, assuming I will use the 9-16, I can just wire one to 12V ignition in my fuse box and the other wired to Aux 8 or Aux 9? And would I need to solder any resistors into the wire? And for the IAT sensor, one wire go to the Ground and the other to Temp 4? Lastly, I noticed my "Knock" is not enabled in my ECU. Since my car has a stock knock sensor, how do I go about enabling that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted January 19, 2023 Report Share Posted January 19, 2023 To enable knock go to the knock setup and change it from off to one of the trim or normalized knock options. The parameters that show up will require tuning to dial in correctly and there are some suggestions in the help menus for this. Personally I'm still usually using fuel and ignition trims and adjusting the knock threshold and gain level based on datalogging data and dyno tuning. There's a lot to cover in there from a tuning stand point and I don't know that there is one single resource that distills it down, but a competent tuner should be able to help get it dialed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TranzerZ Posted January 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2023 I need help again. I installed a few things. New bigger radiator with fans, 5/8 plenum spacer, 75mm throttle body with adapters (from a 70mm), Link IAT-8, and an AEM boost solenoid. When I first started up my car yesterday, everything seemed fine. It was actually even idling good. I let it run for 10 minutes then shut it off. Then I enabled the boost solenoid and tested it and it was clicking fine. I started my car back up and the idle started going cuckoo, bouncy, so I shut it off for a bit. I started back up and it was idling around 2000 rpm and very lean. Tried a couple times, same thing. I shut it off for the night and unplug everything so the ECU can power cycle down. Today, I plugged everything back up, started the car and same thing, idling at 2000 rpm but at least it wasn't running as lean. Does it has something to do with the new throttle body? Maybe have to readjust the TPS and AP? Was it possible that my boost solenoid wiring may have had a back feed to the ECU because I connect one wire directly to 12V ACC from the fuse box? I'm thinking that I should have connected a relay in between. One of the performance shop here even recommend it to connect the 5V instead. See link below for my log today. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A-crpn7BF3L_vR9EyOTox6NE9Hr9cKOs/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 24, 2023 Report Share Posted January 24, 2023 You should do a tps cal if you have changed the throttle. I would say the idle is just your idle settings not tuned. Reduce the dashpot offset and the idle base position table. The boost solenoid 12V should come from an ignition switched source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TranzerZ Posted January 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2023 I did the TPS and APS calibration and gradually reduced the dashpot offset. Idles good now. Thanks! Now to work on the boost solenoid lol. I wired it to the cigarette lighter fuse using the add-a-fuse adapter. Works fine but I think it's back feeding. Maybe i'll add a relay to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TranzerZ Posted January 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2023 Another question. My AUX 6 & 7 is for the O2 Heater RF & LF, respectively. I'm using CAN-Lambda so not sure why it always say Active on PCLink. Can I use AUX 6 & 7 for something else, or even disable them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 26, 2023 Report Share Posted January 26, 2023 Yes you can un-assign them from the GP outputs or use them for something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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