the_mechanic Posted April 7, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2023 Ok I am going to try my best to explain the situation....the car had been parked since late 2017 in 2020 I decided it was time to bring the car back on the streets so I removed the gas tank draining out the gas added fresh gas my clutch was bad I replaced it so then I tried starting the car it didn't start up i assumed it was because the car was parked for a long time so I dumped gas and tranny fuild into the intake the car still didn't start so I removed the plugs,that was when I saw the car was flooded in got brand new spark plugs the car still won't start so I dumped fuel in the in take then it started but I noticed it wouldn't idle..so at that time I removed the injector And sent them out to be cleaned it got them back the car still wouldn't start unless I added fuel to the intake is replace the fuel pump it chaged all my fuses and relays with genuine relays from mazda the car still wont start so that was when I went and got the link gx4 ecu I was told from link that the ecu was plug and play but that was not the case when I pluged up the ecu the car would not start so that is how I ended up here on this forum and with the help of adamw I was able to get the car started by changing the master fuel value...the master fuel value was set it 20 Ms by link I changed it to 3ms and changed a few other things and the car started up but now the car is starting but isn't running right I haven't began doing any tuning I am just trying to get the base map sorted out and got the car running fine before I begin tuning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 7, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2023 Ok I am going to try my best to explain the situation....the car had been parked since late 2017 in 2020 I decided it was time to bring the car back on the streets so I removed the gas tank draining out the gas added fresh gas my clutch was bad I replaced it so then I tried starting the car it didn't start up i assumed it was because the car was parked for a long time so I dumped gas and tranny fuild into the intake the car still didn't start so I removed the plugs,that was when I saw the car was flooded in got brand new spark plugs the car still won't start so I dumped fuel in the in take then it started but I noticed it wouldn't idle..so at that time I removed the injector And sent them out to be cleaned it got them back the car still wouldn't start unless I added fuel to the intake is replace the fuel pump it chaged all my fuses and relays with genuine relays from mazda the car still wont start so that was when I went and got the link gx4 ecu I was told from link that the ecu was plug and play but that was not the case when I pluged up the ecu the car would not start so that is how I ended up here on this forum and with the help of adamw I was able to get the car started by changing the master fuel value...the master fuel value was set it 20 Ms by link I changed it to 3ms and changed a few other things and the car started up but now the car is starting but isn't running right I haven't began doing any tuning I am just trying to get the base map sorted out and got the car running fine before I begin tuning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 8, 2023 Report Share Posted April 8, 2023 On 4/5/2023 at 5:36 PM, koracing said: Can you post a copy of your tune? The trigger scope looks clean, but I have no idea about some of the stuff I'm seeing in your log. Your idle control is not activating due to MAP threshold. Your coolant temp is pegged at full cold and never changes (like it's not connected). Your hitting a rev limiter at 4000ish rpm. You have no lambda signal. Your fuel pressure is off or seems to be off - but that would depend on the fuel model/strategy you're using whether or not that's really an issue. On 4/6/2023 at 8:20 AM, koracing said: Attaching the tune or posting a link to the tune on dropbox, google drive, etc. is the best bet. I would love to help you get this sorted out, but you're not really responding or acting on the information that has already been provided. I do not undertand why you appear to not want to post your tune file. That's not really a big deal if it's just a 3ms master fuel change on the RX7 S7 base tune provided by Link. All that being said: you or anyone you get to help you aren't going to be doing any tuning without the wideband connected to the ecu. You have a coolant temp sensor issue which does affect enrichment and thus can throw off fueling so making any changes while that is reading incorrectly is an issue that can cause you to end up chasing your tail while tuning. Please do the following: Test the coolant temp sensor and wiring - repair the wiring or the sensor. Connect the wideband analog output to your ecu. Take a datalog with those things functioning in the log. Once those are working correctly post the tune and a datalog of startup/idle here. Adamw 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2023 I haven't gotten the tune file sent to me as yet because I am just the mechanic in am not the guy foing the actual tuning so when i get the tune file sent to me I will send it on here Mazda RX7 S7-8 G4X Xtreme Daryl 3 Starting Map.pclx Here is the tune file in just got it via email Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 8, 2023 Report Share Posted April 8, 2023 Is the car not with you currently? How are you taking datalogs if you don't have access to the ecu via a laptop and thus the tune file (File -> Save As)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 9, 2023 Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 Your coolant temp sensor is at 5V so that means it is open circuit - the ecu is not seeing any resistance. So either a wire is broken/bad connection somewhere or the sensor is unplugged or has failed. Start by checking the resistance of the sensor with a multimeter, it should be 2000-4000ohms at room temp. If that looks ok, beep out the wiring back to the ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 Koracing you told me to post a copy of my tune on here and you didnt help me at all it's you are more interested it the where abouts of the car this isn't a car group I came on here too get help so if you are not going to help them get outta here....becaus what did you do with the copy of the tune you didnt tell me nothing about it Here I am sending it again Mazda RX7 S7-8 G4X Xtreme Daryl 3 Starting Map.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 10, 2023 Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 As I stated previously - not posting the tune isn't a big deal since it wasn't very modified as you stated. There is *nothing* in your tune that is causing the primary problems you are currently having. Personally, it doesn't matter to me where the car is. I feel like I have pretty clearly stated the issues the car currently has and have re-emphasized the reason those issues are problems for me or anyone trying to help you. I come here to help free of charge on my own time, I don't work for Link. Unfortunately, I didn't have the free time to review your tune yesterday - it is a holiday weekend this weekend and I had some family obligations. As an act of good faith and in the spirit of benevolent giving, I'd love to help you get this sorted out with a remote tuning session to rectify any tuning related issues that are preventing the car from idling. To do that, I would need for the coolant temp sensor to be working and the lambda signal to be working, however. If you require assistance in rectifying those signals, please post any questions I or someone else may be able to help with, and I'm sure we would be happy to do so. Peace be with you, my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 Ok so you are saying that the main cause of my problem is the coolant temperature sensor and I need to get the lambda signal sorted out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 10, 2023 Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 Yes, that is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 The lambda signal how so I get it checked out also for the remote tuning session I need some more details on that because in my country there are not tuners and I have been looking for a remote tuner because like I said I am only a mechanic I just did some research and found out that your call airfuel lambda.......the thing with the lambda is that it isn't hooked up to the ecu as yet because Idk how to get it hooked up so if you could assists me with getting that hooked up that would be greatly appreciated So by any chance did you take a look at the tune file in sent you?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 10, 2023 Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 Yes I did take a look. I would rework a good portion of the tune and use modelled fuel tuning, but none of that is feasible until the wideband/lambda/afr sensor is connected and the water temp sensor issue is repaired. I'm certain once those things are set up properly that getting any running or idling issues resolved would be very easy to resolve. For your AFR/Wideband/Lambda sensor setup - what type of wideband controller are you using, specifically do you have the part number or model number of the device you are using? Most wideband controllers have an Analog 0-5v signal output that can be input to the ecu to use and read either through expansion connections or by tapping into the factory harness on certain wires/pins (Pin 3D on your ecu is AN Volt 1 for the OEM o2 sensor signal - this can be repurposed to use for AFR/Wideband/lambda sensor 0-5v input to the ecu). You also have lots of expansion connector options if you have the expansion harness. Some widebands also have CAN output over the CAN bus via one of your CAN expansion 4 or 5 pin connections (depending on your board version) - this would be the preferred option to avoid any analog signal calibration issues if your AFR/Wideband/Lambda controller has CAN output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2023 Ok thanks the wideband controller I haven't gotten it as yet I had to order it from America and its takes two weeks to get to my country but once I get the temperature and the lambda issues sorted out I I will get back to you with a few more logs if thats ok thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 12, 2023 Report Share Posted April 12, 2023 Sounds good. What country are you in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2023 I am in Dominica thats a country in the Caribbean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2023 Getting a AEM X-Series Wideband Gauge/ AFR Controller # 30-0300 thats the wideband gauge I am getting will it work fine for my set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 17, 2023 Report Share Posted April 17, 2023 Yes. I recommend connecting via CAN if you have the proper cable to do so. Otherwise connect both the brown and white wires to the expansion on the ecu or via an unused Analog input and sensor ground on the main ecu connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted August 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2023 On 4/6/2023 at 6:16 AM, the_mechanic said: Hello I hope everyone is doing alright. So I Got the Link Water Temp sensor but it's much smaller than the one on my RX-7, I want to know if you know what part number I can order to fit an FD3S- RX-7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekAE86 Posted August 30, 2023 Report Share Posted August 30, 2023 I assume you're talking about the thread size? Good chance the sensor threads are M12x1.5mm. If you bought the Link NTC1-8 sensor that won't fit. You could get the NTC12 sensor, or find a low profile M12x1.5mm to NPT 1/8 reducer. I would confirm the thread size yourself before buying something else though. If you have a specialized hydraulic fittings store in your area you can take the sensors to them and they'll be able to tell you exactly what the threads are and might even have an adapter fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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