Trigger Error After Cranking

[Ben.C]

Hi,

 

I'm having a hard time getting my car to start. It's a Honda Civic with a B18C running on a Link Atom and K-series COP. I'm running the car in wasted spark and multi-port group injection. The ignition is wired as IGN output 1 to coil 1&4 and IGN output 2 to coil 2&3. Injection is wired as INJ output 1 to injector 1, INJ output 2 to injector 2, INJ output 3 to injector 3, INJ output 4 wired to injector 4. I can run both an injector test and an ignition test and both work as expected. 

For triggering, I'm running a 24-1 trigger wheel in place of the factory 12-0. I drew a 24-1 trigger wheel in Fusion360 making sure the outer diameter is the same as factory, tooth width is the same as factory, and thickness is also within a few tenths of a mm. see attached photos. I machined off the factory trigger wheel and pressed/welded the new wheel in place. I'm running the factory crank fluctuation sensor (OE replacement Hella unit) in the factory location. As you can see I'm getting a trigger signal, I'm getting engine speed, and no errors while cranking however I get an error right when I stop cranking and the voltage comes back up. I read a few posts on here about setting arming threshold however they require a trigger scope and my little Atom can't do that.

So my questions are; do you think my trigger setup is ok? How would I set the arming threshold without a trigger scope and is that why I'm getting an error after cranking?

 

Log file attached as well as my calibration file, it's not tuned yet...just trying to get it to start.

Trigger Error.llg Silver Car V0.1.pclr

[Adamw]

Looks fine to me.  It is not unusual to get a trigger error or 2 with the crankshaft stops turning as the next tooth that the ecu is expecting never arrives.  

The main problems I see in your log:

1. Your MAP sensor is reading wrong, only 6kpa so you are only getting 6% of the injctor PW you should be.  AN Volt 2 is only showing 0.28V so it is either wired wrong, failed or possibly swapped with TPS or something. 
2. FP speed has a min and max clamp of 0% so you have 0% fuel pump speed. 

Also a little weird that driven wheel speed comes up to 1.8kmh when cranking?

[Ben.C]

Thanks Adam!

I got the car too fire up. It ripped to life and held a perfect idle. I had the signal and sensor ground backwards for the map sensor (I fallowed Haltec's info page for the sensor and they have it backwards). Fuel pump speed control is up and running perfect now that my SSR arrived. The wheel speed is also correct, the cars on jack stands with no wheels or brakes so the bit of drag through the trans makes sense.

I have a new issue I'm working through but am all out of ideas. I have a Link CAN-Lambda sensor and also a GaugeArt panel mount display. I've fallowed the setup procedure for both the CAN-Lambda and the display but can't get them to work. For the CAN-Lambda, everything seems 'fine'. I don't have any errors on the CAN bus, I have 12V at the plug, ground is solid, ~3.5v on CAN high, and ~1.9v on CAN low. I can find the CAN Lambda gauge under ECU Controls>CAN Setup>CAN Devices. I can't find the gauge there however. The runtime values for Lambda 1 has the status as: Disabled/Diagnostics? The gauge is channel 1 Transmit generic dash, and the CAN Lambda is Channel 2: Link CAN-Lambda. Attached below are some screen caps, diagram, log file, and tune file.

Silver Car V0.2.pclr CAN issues 2023-04-25 9;25;02 am.llg

[koracing]

With two devices on the bus you should reinstall the display resistor or add one near the CAN Lambda if it is further from the ecu than the display.  The rest of your settings in your tune look correct to me.

The wheel you made - I would have made sure the center of mass was still dead center on the center of your circle - either by adding some material across your open missing tooth space, or by putting a series of small holes opposite the the missing tooth until the balance was restored.  Probably not a lot of an isssue, but at high rpm those sort of imbalances can lead to premature bearing wear.

[Ben.C]

I tried it with booth the resistor in the display and without. With the resistor installed I'm getting a "Stuff Error". The thing I'm confused with is the "Disabled/Diagnostics" and the sensor not heating or really doing anything. The length of the dash run (to the display) is much longer than the run to the CAN-Lambda so I agree it should have the resistor in place to 'terminate' the trunk.

[Adamw]

What problem are you trying to solve?  The find devices tool is only for programming Link CAN devices, it wont find 3rd party devices.  

Lambda 1 status = disabled is because it is waiting for the engine to start.  

[Ben.C]

Hi Adam,

Sorry, I should have been more specific, but you answered my question anyway. My question was, with the ignition on, why was I not getting anything from the CAN-Lambda; temp, ect? As you said, it only works once the engine is running which was correct.

I fired the car up, it started heating, then I got an error 16, heated too long. This then switched to error 33 open circuit APE-IPE, then back to error 16, back and forth for a bit, then error code 34 open circuit RE/IPE.

I found this thread:

 I seem to be having the same issue as the OP. I also have a very early version of the CAN-Lambda like the OP. Should I try the 22uF capacitor, or is there another fix? That thread is from 2017....

[Ben.C]

Sorry, forgot to attach the log fileo2 Errors 2023-04-27 5;28;39 pm.llg

[Adamw]

Error 16 & 34 are usually power supply related.  Preferably connect it to its own relay direct to battery, or the cap usually works.