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E36 M3 Turbo First Installation and setup


ron ben david

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hello guys i'm Ron Building my project car for the first time in my life I am spouse to receive my link G4X Plug and play E36  in few days and honestly i feel a bit stressed about it =)
so i actually came here today to ask for any tips or advice on my build:
E36 M3 Manual 5 speed -(attached photos)

Forged S50B30 Motor
(pistons[86.5mm], rods, rod bearing, cometic Headgasket, 284Deg' Camshaft, valve springs)
with 1:9 compression ratio Pistons,
Turbo is Garrett T3T04E Stage 3 (4661595004S),
Aem 340 lph pump
Siemens Deka Injectors 875cc(@40psi)

Frount mount intercooler,
3 port Mac Solonoide (As wastegate actuator)

i'm looking to make about 500 - 600 Whp.

I have seen the for Trigger Set up there are preset Modes some of them called BMW M52\S52\M3 (CRK116),
how can i know for sure that i can use it is change the compression ratio have change the timing?


i have watched this video and honestly i could not clearly understand how im spouse to tune the ignition trigger?
is there a flash on the program while i'm watching the timing light? while of that im reducing or increasing the angle number?
 

 



 

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This is pretty simple. 

If the timing light says 10deg and your link sees 12deg.. you will need to offset that in your software, so link sees 10 deg. 

 

Are you going to be tuning your car ?

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I understand my mistake i have never used a timing light and didn't realize they show the angle,
yes im going to tune it my self i have a guy that have tuned alot of turbo cars before he will be assisting me but my idea is to try to do it alone, i have spent a very long time learning about this, i used to work as a diagnostic tech in toyota lexus previously .

so you think i may be able to set the trigger as "BMW S52" ?
any other advices about this tune ?

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Note our E36 plug-in is only designed for the M50TU, it wont be plug and play for your car.  Assuming it is a euro S50 I think I remember most of the pinout is not too different but there will be a fair bit of wire shuffling required to add the extra cam sensor and the two vanos solenoids.  

The euro S50B30 doesnt need a special trigger mode, just the generic multitooth/missing mode set up like below.  Try the offset around 265.  

Capture.PNG.0d3b0ed2664892bba3d250ab4bad

 

23 hours ago, ron ben david said:

any other advices about this tune ?

Assuming it still has the ITB's, you will probably want to set it up with alpha-N + MAP type fuel calculation like our GTR base map.  

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11 hours ago, Adamw said:

Note our E36 plug-in is only designed for the M50TU, it wont be plug and play for your car.  Assuming it is a euro S50 I think I remember most of the pinout is not too different but there will be a fair bit of wire shuffling required to add the extra cam sensor and the two vanos solenoids.  

The euro S50B30 doesnt need a special trigger mode, just the generic multitooth/missing mode set up like below.  Try the offset around 265.  

Capture.PNG.0d3b0ed2664892bba3d250ab4bad

 

Assuming it still has the ITB's, you will probably want to set it up with alpha-N + MAP type fuel calculation like our GTR base map.  

 



thank you for the comment Adam,
i think you might be confusing the s50b30 with the other S engines(s52,s50b32 - which dual vanos)
my S50b30 have only intake Vanos, which make me wonder now what sensors or actuators should be already ready when plugged in, the M50 had single intake vanos such as mine, is it in the same pins ?
maybe it will work like any other M50?
so how can i find out more about the pinout difference and what else should i expect?

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9 hours ago, ron ben david said:

i think you might be confusing the s50b30 with the other S engines(s52,s50b32 - which dual vanos)
my S50b30 have only intake Vanos, which make me wonder now what sensors or actuators should be already ready when plugged in, the M50 had single intake vanos such as mine, is it in the same pins ?

To make sure we are talking about the same engine, Im referring to the European S50B30, not the USA model that had a similar code S50B30US.  The euro S50B30 has high pressure intake vanos, which uses two solenoids to control the intake cam.  The vanos system on this engine is originally controlled by a separate "vanos ecu" which gets commands from the engine ecu via CAN or possibly some other type of communication network. There are also two extra cam position sensors connected to the vanos ecu.  For the link to control vanos you would need to wire the vanos solenoids and the rear cam sensor to the Link ecu. 

I only have some brief notes on the pinout differences from the last time I looked at it for someone else, the other main differences I have noted are Injectors and coils are wired in a different firing order, there is a 3rd knock sensor, and possibly the crank sensor is wired in opposite polarity to the M50.  

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9 hours ago, Adamw said:

To make sure we are talking about the same engine, Im referring to the European S50B30, not the USA model that had a similar code S50B30US.  The euro S50B30 has high pressure intake vanos, which uses two solenoids to control the intake cam.  The vanos system on this engine is originally controlled by a separate "vanos ecu" which gets commands from the engine ecu via CAN or possibly some other type of communication network. There are also two extra cam position sensors connected to the vanos ecu.  For the link to control vanos you would need to wire the vanos solenoids and the rear cam sensor to the Link ecu. 

I only have some brief notes on the pinout differences from the last time I looked at it for someone else, the other main differences I have noted are Injectors and coils are wired in a different firing order, there is a 3rd knock sensor, and possibly the crank sensor is wired in opposite polarity to the M50.  

Good Morning , i will start with sorry because i'm misunderstood you when you said Dual soloniod, I  you meant tought Dual Vanos for some reason  (exhaust and intake)

so we agree its the same motor with 2 solonoides for intake only,


so regarding the coils and injectors i will just check them and rewire properly,

and the 3rd knock sensor i will wire it to aux probably 
now what can i do with the polarity of the crank sensor?(maybe the ecu will fix it alone?)

so the ecu will work almost as an plug and plug(apart from above of course) for me since the rest are the same pinout and readings ?

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2 hours ago, ron ben david said:

and the 3rd knock sensor i will wire it to aux probably 

The Link ecu only has 2 knock sensor inputs, you cant use the 3rd.

2 hours ago, ron ben david said:

now what can i do with the polarity of the crank sensor?(maybe the ecu will fix it alone?)

Leave as is for now, use the trigger scope to confirm if the waveform is correct or upside down.  If upside down then swap the +/- wires. 

2 hours ago, ron ben david said:

so the ecu will work almost as an plug and plug(apart from above of course) for me since the rest are the same pinout and readings ?

Plug and play would be a bit of a stretch, you have 12 injectors and ign wires to move, you need to free up an appropriate aux and DI for the vanos by moving some existing stuff to the expansion loom, you have to disconnect the vanos ECU and then reroute the vanos solenoid and sensor wires to the ECU. 

I dont like to repin these as everyone I have seen that has been repinned has had the internal barbs damaged inside the connector housing so the terminals are no longer secure.   There is a better version of the same plug used by Cosworth and Life racing that is not so fragile but they have been obsolete for a few years so they getting expensive and it is a big job to replace if you do damage it.  

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