G4X ExtremeX Miata K24 swap no Trigger signals

[Rodan]

Ready to start up a K24 swap in my Miata race car.  This is my first time with LINK and with K24, but the car was previously set up on Megasquirt with a VVT swap, so not my first time with a standalone, but I am fighting the learning curve with the link software.

Problem:  I'm getting "NO" for Trigger 1 (crank position) and Trigger 2 (exh cam position) when I do a cranking test, but oddly I am getting RPM.

Physical wiring/connections have been double and triple checked for correct pinouts and continuity, and are good.

Startup map was supplied by a professional tuning shop, experienced with LINK and K24s, who was provided with the inputs/outputs for my setup.  Cranking test was done with no power to fuel pump, injectors or coils, though the fuel system was primed prior so the link would see fuel pressure.  The sensors are powered through a separate circuit when the ECU is energized.

I'm thinking there has to be something simple I'm missing in the configuration, but hours of plodding through the help file and internet searches haven't turned anything up.

Screen shot of log time plot:

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53685083833_9c2c446c6a_z.jpg[/img]

Log file and Map attached.

I would appreciate any input!

 

Miata Base shared.pclx PC Datalog - 2024-04-28 10;09;41 am.llgx

[Vaughan]

So I can see that it is syncing as you are getting a changing dwell time and the Trigger 1 State looks happy so the triggers are most likely fine, one other thing you can do to check the triggers is to go to ECU Controls -> Trigger scope and then click capture while the engine is cranking.

Have you had a timing light on it to confirm the Trigger offset value? Also I can see both Trig 1 and Trig 2 going to yes, the point at which trig 1 goes back to No is when you have stopped cranking it.

[Adamw]

The ecu all appears to be happy to me.  A triggerscope would be good to confirm it is actually the exhaust cam sensor connected to trig 2 as they wont sync reliably if the intake cam is used.

Your fuel pressure is only 190Kpa so that wont be helping but I still would have expected some signs of life even at that.  Provided that pressure is accurate you could change the Fuel system type setting to FP sensor which will compensate for the low pressure as a test.

Do you have spark?  Are the plugs getting wet?        

[Rodan]

Thanks for the quick replies.  It appears my unfamiliarity with the software is catching me out... I didn't realize I was getting signal on Trigger 1 and 2 because I wasn't able to watch the laptop screen in realtime, but with the screenshot above I can see that it is.  I haven't progressed to testing spark and fuel because I thought I wasn't getting crank signal.

I will move on to testing spark and injectors.

[Guilty Garage]

If you have moved over straight from Kpro or something, Change your trigger 1 to falling. Its cause you are using K24 crank sensor likely. 

Its also common to need to repin the crank sensor plug for harness's designed for 1st gen K20s.

[Rodan]

Thanks for all the replies!

It did have signal on both triggers, that was my bad for being unfamiliar with the software.  Once I got into testing spark, I determined the actual no-start was caused by the power wire for the coils not being fully seated in the PDM connector.

Car starts and idles, and will be off to the dyno for tuning soon.