Chris Young Posted November 27, 2011 Report Share Posted November 27, 2011 hi, I am having problems getting spark to my engine and thought I'd ask if the cas voltage figure would have anything to do with it, there's a picture of my readings, please let me know. Its a 4agze with a CAS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen Biggelaar Posted November 27, 2011 Report Share Posted November 27, 2011 Hi Chris. That voltage looks OK for a cranking speed, it is more likely to do with the arming thresholds for the triggers if anything along those lines. I want to get more to the bottom of the problem however, as it has no spark you say. It could be part and parcel of the triggers, but there could be a couple other things there too. Can you maybe send us the .PCL file so we can have a quick look for anything obvious that stands out. Is it running the standard triggering, are you running Link ignitors, are you confident in the wiring, what version firware are you using, and is this the first time the engine has run? These are a few things to get through first, and we'll go from there. Jurgen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 Thanks Jurgen, I sent an email to teck AT linkecu attn to you. i'm sure of the wiring and the CAS set up and i know for sure that the CAS sends a signal. I do get trigger errors in the 'runtime values: triggers/limits' under 'trig1 err counter' when cranking. To confirm my hypothesis about the coil packs and ignitors being the problem [i'm unsure how to test them] i will be converting my ignition to 1zzfe coil on plugs over the weekend. Also this car has been running before many times, i have rebuilt the engine and swapped to a different gear box, new GT3076r turbo and that is it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 I attached my tune above for a 4agte running wasted spark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 I have cas signal now. But I only have spark when I put it on test mode, when I crank its got no spark. I get no errors no when cranking? Just tested continuity [pain in ass when these only one person] Remembering that electricity is lazy Must be something in the setting? Can anyone help or point out why it wont spark when i crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen Biggelaar Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 It sounds like it might be missing the sync pulse. Are you getting a sensible reading of RPM when cranking? Jurgen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 yeah i am getting the right readings, is there something i have missed? anything else that may be it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Coils have power while cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 yes they do, however i believe the problem was that the battery had dropped a cell. i put a new one in and it started straight up. Thank you for your help, but it was a simple fix that i overlooked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 Okay i have a new Problem: I did notice, if I turn it on straight after key on it will start (very easily too, like 1.5 turns), if I don't turn it on and let the fuel pump prime [or simply wait 5-10 seconds] it won't start,it will just keep turning over. Bit the rpm and trig pulse say they're okay. I did notice it idles around 2200rpm while its on, and I've got the cold idle set to 1000 at 40*C Tests i have done: >Setting Axillary output that controls the fuel pump to:'Test (On)' >Hard wiring fuel pump & making a new FOC relay >Updated from 4.8.8 to 4.8.82 to fix firmware It's as if the injectors stop working, however it will start straight away from the if you go from off to start straight away. Any more advise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemmy01 Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 Do you have a fuel-pressure sensor or gauge? Whats the pressure if you start straight after key on? Whats the pressure after prime time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemmy01 Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 You have set Pre-Crank-Prime to Key-On. Have you tried Ign-Start-Position instead? Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 Didn't change a thing, what are the chances that the ecu has an internal fault, it is coming up for three years old? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 The only reason i ask is because the wiring is the same, the components are the same, the triggers are the same, sensors are the same. The only things that have changed are the engine internals, turbo size, exhaust & a new gearbox, it doesn't make sense to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen Biggelaar Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Hi Chris. Sounds like your IAT might be getting heat soaked after a while sitting, meaning before it gets enough flow through the pipes to cool it down a bit to a sensible reading, IAT corrections will be pulling fuel out thinking the air is hot as. Have a look at your IAT's when it starts well, and then doesn't start... The difference will be like 25 degrees vs. like 50 degrees or something. Let me know if that's on the money or not. Jurgen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 I'll check that but I'm sure i looked over that a month ago when it wouldn't start, I'll let you know tomorrow after i test it tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Nope, reading is fine, 35 degrees and constant. [for 4 seconds anyway] Still same problem, i have 5 -7 seconds of car running time/ starting time once i put power to the ecu. After that time it doesn't shut off, but it wont let the car start, the starter motor will keep turning the engine and i have both fuel and spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 This is my latest pcl config Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 this is what happens when you turn the car on straight. done multiple times to see whats wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted December 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 this is the cranking after you wait 10 seconds or so after key on Let me know your thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hi Chris, Just to confirm what we talked about on the phone today. If you go to the ECU settings menu in PcLink, then Analog inputs > fault settings. Scroll through the list till you find AnV5 Error high, this needs to be changed to 4.95. Next AnV5 Error low needs to be changed to 0.05. The AnV5 Error value depends on a few things, but something like 100kPa should work well. Also needing changes in the fault settings are the High and Low error voltages for AnTemp 1 and AnTemp 2, set them to 4.95 and 0.05 (as with AnV5). For the ECT fault value put 100 degrees, and for IAT somewhere around 20 degrees should work. Hopefully this will get things running a lot better for you. Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 It lives!!! Thanks heaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Awesome! Glad you got it sorted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Young Posted February 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 makes 130KW on 8PSI out of a 1.6 with very conservative timing. Thanks Link Team, you Rock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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