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N/A Subaru EJ22


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Hey all,

I've recently had a chance to do a bit of work to my 1992 Subaru Liberty (N/A unfortunately) and have been chasing my tail a fair bit lately. The previous owner gave me no information as to what had been done and didn't even know about the G4 plug-in ECU. I'm still unsure as to why this motor was used and what the plans were let alone what has actually been tampered with but any help would be great!
 I've had to run over most of the loom and found its been spliced, and checked over the pinouts. Still unsure of the sensor pinouts as some sensors have been chopped/changed. The car has been running before with quite some grunt to it, but after it was stolen earlier this year and the battery was discharged it had a few fault codes and issues that were intermittent with the sensors/electrical system. Could this have internally damaged the ECU or the electronics in general?

The main thing I want to know is if anyone has a base map for this motor? If not would it be best to start with the V1-V2 base map then go though and change the parameters to suit the N/A EJ22, or would it be best to start fresh or even with a different base map? I'm looking to just get the thing on the road to get around until I have enough money to put the proper setup in it. Thanks in advance.















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Having the battery go flat should not effect the ECU.

Only if reverse polarity was applied would ECU damage occur.

If its been up and running the MAP will be ok to start from.


Edited by Simon
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Hey Simon, thanks for the reply.

So use the V1-V2 base map and adjust it for the EJ22? I forgot to mention there's no MAF sensor and it has an external Link 2.5bar MAP sensor which is reading high. Is it fine to run this MAP being a N/A motor? The sensor is wired in through the expansion connector. Should I wire it to run through the correct ECU pins? There's also still wires in the ECU MAF pins that have been cut where the sensor was, should I remove them from the ECU or does it not really matter either way?




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I think Simon is saying that if the existing base-map was tuned for the engine and it ran well then it is the best base-map to start from. The Link ECU will not be using the MAF sensor, so you could remove the MAF wiring if you want to, the other option is just to make sure the MAF wires are well insulated so they can not short out.

The Link ECU will be using the MAP sensor, and it is important that it is reading accurately. With they key on and then engine off the MAP reading should be about 101 kPa. If is it out from this slightly (within 5 kPa) you should do a MAP sensor calibration, you can do this from the options menu in PCLink. There is no problem with the MAP sensor being wired to the expansion connector so long as it is reading correctly.

Edited by Scott
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