Matek0012 Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 Ran when parkedLink g1 ecu with hand controller Taken off spark leads there is sparkTaken off fuel hose tonnes of fuelPump primes And keeps priming Does Not shut off!!!!!!!!!!When cranking Fuel pump turns off.Injectors cycling.Start ya bastard doesn't workWas making putt putt sounds will post video soon. https://youtu.be/FBx2F9p3lEUThroughout the video itll fire once or twice. if i kept cranking away it wouldn't do it again and i would hold it cranking for 20-30 seconds.Now nothing cranks over just fine. Voltage at a steady 11.9 or there abouts. have drained 2-3 batteries trying charging them up now. Have looked for any grounding issues. Couldn't find any. Please help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 Have checked all vacuum hoses as well.I have found some dogey wiring under the steering column and i think i will redo it all tomorrow properly. the two videos just posted have the battery at 11.1 v so barely turning over but the temp gauge comes up after a few cranks and the tacho goes nuts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tdzfzs44iL4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 Hi in your earlier video, where the tacho needle would jump up, this indicates that some sort of trigger error could be occurring. This is because when a trigger error occurs the ECU is unsure about the current engine speed and position.Does the hand controller show any engine speed when you are cranking?Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 Yep cranks at 200 rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B787 Posted October 9, 2016 Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 Hi, I believe ECU will prime the fuel system for 4-5 seconds and fuel pump will cut out. At least you have 200 rpm showing during crank.Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted October 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 So I have found some terrible wiring. I have since pulled dash out fixed a bit of wiring but will be doing it all by wed arvo I hope. The think that keeps getting me is that when the fuel pressure gets to 40psi ish the fuel pump doesnt stop priming. The thing continuously keeps running Is there a sensor where the pressure of the fuel turns off the pump. Im in the process of checking continuity within this twist and tape goodness im working with. Will update if I find something. Also something on the side. I want to put the electronic ecu from this car into another one. Does the link need an input /output for an electronic speedo. And then I could run a mechanical speedo on this particular car.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 On the G1 the pump should prime for 3 seconds and then stop if there is no trigger input from a cranking engine. If it continues to run without the engine cranking then this would indicate there are false triggers on the crank sensor wires.Do you have a hand control to check ECU with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted October 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) I have a hand controller. Shows 200rpm when cranking Why under any circumstance would there be issues with the crank sensor when its showing the rpm when cranking. I will be looking into the wiring for it and hopefully i have a spare one i can test out when i get home. i have watched the link ecu video on the issue.My question is when the ecu is showing cranks why would there be an error considering theres only 2 wires going to the sensor? Edited October 10, 2016 by Matek0012 stupid phone was crap to write in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 I'm not suggesting an issue with the sensor. It could be that there is a relay causing noise on the trigger wires and this is keeping the pump running.The other option could be the pump has been rewired to run all the time. Did it use to do this before? One common issue on the old Subarus is that the earths can fail sometimes it is often worth running fresh wires through to the ECU. Also on the hand control scroll to another screen other than RPM and then crank the engine. If the hand control resets to RPM then this indicates the ECU is seeing low voltage at crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B787 Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 I had the rpm pointer flickering before while driving and engine behaves normal. Drives me nut to see the rpm pointer flickering from time to time. I did my DIY earth mod, ie adding extra earth wires from battery negative terminal to any electrical harness grounding points at the engine or chassis including one to ECU grounding point near to ECU and I was glad it fix the rpm pointer going nuts. 2 years ago, it happened again and I realise some of the grounding points were coated with paint due I had the car resprayed. Cleaned up the grounding points, all ok but it still didn't fix my starting problem in the morning. Most morning start, ok and there will be a few morning, it just refuse to fire up. Few hours later, starts perfectly. I just replaced the battery and for the first time, I was able to see 100 rpm in the controller during crank. I have replaced cam sensor, crank sensor, coolant sensor, spark plugs, ignition coil. Next probably looking at Ebay for original ECU for sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 We can give the ECU an overhaul as it will be getting on in years and solder joints can fail over time.There is also a sub-board on those ECUs that if the contacts get dirty you could get intermittent issues.If you want for $150+gst we can do a full service on the unit to at least rule it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted December 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 SOOOOOOI have rewired the ecu where it was crimped and taped or soldered and electrical taped.I have also re wired all the starter key wiring on the steering column AND i have checked all my sensors if they work I have come to a conclusion that the issue must be in the ecu This is when i found a burnt resistor and a shifty connection that seems to be soldered on by a 3 year old child.I am in need of finding out what number 48 resistor is on a wrx v3-4 link g1 ecu.Hopefully this will be the finish of all the troubles i have had. i have just measured i am getting a reading of 28.4 Mega Ohms but im unsure if that burnt resistor is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil brown Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 (edited) R48 is a 1ohm 1 watt resistorI should also point out that IC4 is also damaged this is a TPIC2071 Edited December 13, 2016 by Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted December 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 TPIC2071 or TPIC2107?Google comes up with nothing with TPIC2071 Also is there a schematic diagram for the whole circuit for this ecu that i can refer to at a later stage if need be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 woops TPIC2701Sorry no schematic that would still be classed as IP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted December 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Ok so will it be a swich over from part to part procedure for the ic or does it need to undergo a software procedure. looking at details of the component it just changes the arrangement of the array within the data sheet so therefore it doesnt contain any information that the ecu would be missing. please confirm. These array solvers seem to be in all the cas calculators (graphic calculators if you may). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 No programing just a straight swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 I picked up a 1w resistor I dont believe thats correct I think it would be a. 25 or. 5 w resistor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 They are a special package most 1Watts are much bigger. It's a PRO1F package. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Ok well unfortunately I will b having to make bigger holes for the resistir to slide in Is there any benefit to that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Only negative is the potential to damage the tracks / pads when drilling out the holes and it looks a bit ugly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Ok ill b drilling and risking it.Let you fellas know I go. Cheers for all your help with all these matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil brown Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 thats what i took out of my car as now running a g4 storm unit now basically got 2 off these boards both complete with hand controller and laptop interface Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matek0012 Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Are you wanting to sell the one with laptop interface? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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