Identify what can be done using OLD Link ECU

[MatB]

I am interested if there is a way to interface to an old Link ECU with the following details, It has come up for sale but I am unsure if its just throwing money away if I buy it.

The details on the sticker of the cover are

Honda d42v4 090404

I assume it has a serial interface that is needed to communicate with a PC if that is actually possible at all too?

Any guidance would be appreciated

Thanks

 

Forgot to mention planned on running a H22a in an EG civic off this if possible, all Naturally aspirated and minor mods.

Cheers

 

[Simon]

Better to get an Atom or Monsoon if its a fresh install putting money and time in to a unit that old would be far better spent on a modern unit. The end result is so much better.

Assuming the ECU is unchanged from when it left Link it would do the H22a application.

[MatB]

What is needed  to  communicate with this  G1 link Ecu then and is there any  way  to find  out  if it has been altered? 

Actually  a clean  install  is the  plan but maybe initially  while car is being  built  for  the  track I could  Jimmy  this up to get car semi mobile was the  thought. Doesn't have any serial cable adapter  with it either. ..

[Adamw]

To connect a pc to it you will need a "Serial Link": http://dealers.linkecu.com/SER  they are still available new and cost about $120 in NZ.

Note however these old G1's didnt have configurable trigger inputs - to allow them to work on different engines they needed a different "sub board" fitted.  It was quite common to change these over time, hence Simon's comment above "Assuming the ECU is unchanged from when it left Link".  So to confirm this you should open up the case and give us the numbers off the sub board or post a photo etc.  The sub board is the smaller PCB that sits above the main board, about 40mm square I guess.

So my suggestion is dont buy a serial link yet, confirm the sub-board is correct for your engine first.

[MatB]

Took a bit but I  have the photo of the  daughter board . I'd be  interested  if this is designed for the  h22a  vtec or not  .

Thanks 

[MatB]

To connect a pc to it you will need a "Serial Link": http://dealers.linkecu.com/SER  they are still available new and cost about $120 in NZ.

Note however these old G1's didnt have configurable trigger inputs - to allow them to work on different engines they needed a different "sub board" fitted.  It was quite common to change these over time, hence Simon's comment above "Assuming the ECU is unchanged from when it left Link".  So to confirm this you should open up the case and give us the numbers off the sub board or post a photo etc.  The sub board is the smaller PCB that sits above the main board, about 40mm square I guess.

So my suggestion is dont buy a serial link yet, confirm the sub-board is correct for your engine first.

does these numbers mean anything 2004/02 s/n 005829 off the  daughter board? 

 

[Simon]

Yes that Sub-board will suit the H22a. You will need to wire trigger 1 to the 4 tooth pickup in the distributor trigger 2 to the single tooth.

 

[MatB]

Ok thanks 

Much appreciated.  So what pc software  will  communicate  with  it. I understand  that  I need a serial link  too. Is there Anything  else  needed? Great resource  this forum  especially with your timely  and  expert responses. 

 

[Adamw]

You will need a serial link and assuming your laptop doesn't have a genuine old school 9pin serial port you will also need a USB to serial adapter (computer store).

you will need pclink v2.5 available right down the bottom of the downloads page: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

[MatB]

Cheers 

[MatB]

You will need a serial link and assuming your laptop doesn't have a genuine old school 9pin serial port you will also need a USB to serial adapter (computer store).

you will need pclink v2.5 available right down the bottom of the downloads page: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

whwhere can I find a wiring  diagram  for the  engine loom too please  

[Adamw]

In this G1 forum, at the top is a pinned topic "G1 manuals".  There is a LEMV4 manual in there.

[MatB]

Thankyou Adamw, the LEMv4 one was almost the only manual I hadn't downloaded , I suppose I was a little mislead/confused by naming conventions of the various versions and what applied to what.( somehow I thought LEMV4 was a later model) All sorted now, onwards and upwards. Thanks for your efforts with this slightly concussed and confused old fella...

 

 

[MatB]

So who can tell me  what series  Link ecu this is? 

[Simon]

G1 HondaLink to suit 92-95Civic / Integra

[MatB]

G1  Oh well I guess it will  be  quite  limited  in functionality too. 

I am always on the  look out for a G4 at a G1 price

Edited June 25, 2017 by MatB

[pablo]

hey guys my name is josh and i have a 1985 s10 chev blazer with a link ecu in it and would like to know what series it is and if theres a wiring diagram for it. any help would be great thanks

[Simon]

Looks to be a very early G1, Hard to say for sure as the Micro sticker is missing. But given age of PCB is likely to be closest to D42V3 for wiring and set up info.

http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2550

 

[pablo]

cheers simon thanks for the quick reply and info was also wondering what is the best way to test if my link igniter is working properly as im having trouble getting spark 

[Simon]

An LED test light on the input to the igniter will be handy when the ECU is turning on the coil the light should be on (voltage supplied to igniter) and then off for coil not charging. 

To test igniter if you put 5~12V on the input (disconnected from ECU) then release and you should get a spark. Only hold the voltage on for a very short time as too long and damage to the coil and or igniter can occur. 

[pablo]

thanks again will give this a try today