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G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2


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Can you review what I put in.  This is my first time wiring a car, and first engine swap so any help would be awesome.  I already found out I wired some ground wrong and will re-do the sensor grounds to the ECU ground rather than to the block which I currently have.


I was getting aerror 76 and 77 saying not enough Voltage when trying to get the DBW to work.

For Reference

2GR-FE out of a 2016 Avalon w/ 16k miles

Drive By wire pedal out of a 2016 Avalon to match the E-Throttle body on the 2gr.

92MR2 non turbo body

Turbo E153 Transmission, Axles, Brakes, Hubs

Larger radiator

255lph AEM fuel pump

525CC injectors

Borg Warner 6758 Turbo


Sensors added.  Wide Band O2.  4Bar MAP, IAT, Oil Pressure, CTS, Fuel Pressure Sensor, Boost controller integrated on BW 6758 Turbo.


If you need more information just let me know. Thanks again.


2gr-fe-turbo base.pclr

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The calibration of your APS (pedal) and TPS doesnt look right.  Did you run the TP and AP calibrations?  If so does it fail with an error?

Battery voltage is also only showing 6.9V when you saved that file so something is wrong there too.

I had a quick look over other basic settings, the only other thing I noticed which doesnt look right is you have injection mode is set to multigroup, it would normally be sequential unless you have wired the injectors in groups.

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Your calibration for CAL1 for fuel pressure and oil pressure doesnt look to be set up. 

Not exactly required but having done a similar swap into an sw20 recently there are a couple things you might want to add.

1) the power steer pump controller has an input it takes from the ECU to cut steering assistance. This replicates the mechanical pump steering "doesnt work when engine off". Drive any GP output low to disable steering assist

2) If you havent already done it, you need to replace a certain resistor in the tacho to get it to accept a signal from the ECU. Out of the box it will just make the occasional flicker up to about 100rpm

DI6 GP speed wont actually register as vehicle speed. DI6 logging will show speed, but it wont register as driven/vehicle speed. You need to set this to LR or RR wheel speed with the same calibration, also set your speed source to the same wheel under chassis>speed sources.


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Yes I had an error when doing the APS and TPS.  both said low voltage.  I charged the battery afterwards for my next attempt next weekend.  The first thing I'll do is hook it up and check to make sure it's getting 12-14 volts in, otherwise I'll try and find out where I went wrong there.




I didn't put the calibration for anything yet, just doing baby steps since I have never tuned or wired a car.  I did look up the Voltage and ms adjustments for the injectors I bought but it only gave 5 data points where as the Links required 10 or 12 so I'll graph it and extrapolate the in between numbers.

1) I am not sure I follow here. why do I want to cut the assist? I do think the power steering pump is not working right as it runs for like 3 minutes then slowly dies out and stays off unless you move the wheel.   Then you get 3 more minutes of annoying whining.

2) thanks.  I haven't touched the tach yet, but I changed to a digital Speedometer pickup and bought a 95 NA Tach to put it.  When I saw the connectors didn't match and I was going to have to re-pin the whole thing I left that project for after I get it running.


I'll swap the speed to one of the wheels, thanks for the advice.

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That steering pump behaviour sounds about normal. I think there is some sort of pressure/steering angle change sensor in there that backs off the pump after a while as you describe. I set mine up so that it cuts the pump assist when engine RPM is under 400RPM (ie so it doesnt put battery drain on while starting or flatten it really quickly if the key is left on. 80A breaker on that circuit so I assume it can draw a lot of power...), and that it cuts the assist when speed is over 30kph (effectively making it a manual rack at anything above carpark speeds) - gives it a more direct go-kart like steering feel.

Was 95 one of the beams engines? If the engine that came with the dash had a distributor you will need to do the resistor swap on the tacho. If it had coil packs, you are good to go (its actually the same tacho, just has the smaller resistor installed already). I did a similar dash swap in mine - 91 to 93 or 94 I think as I needed an electric speedo drive. As long as you get the plugs from the donor car wiring, you can follow the traces on the back of the cluster as its only 1 layer thick, and just pull out all the bulbs and hold it up to the light to see what lights are where. From there its a pretty simple task of matching up which wires go where and attaching the new dash to your old wiring. If I can find the diagram I drew up i'll send it your way.[edit - dash wiring spreadsheet attached below]


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Awesome thanks that will help a lot, I do have the pig tails from the new gauge, just didn't know which wire was which yet.  


Also I'll switch the injectors to sequential, the guide I was reading was a little dated and confusing.

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The electro-hydraulic power steering in the MR2 is independent of the engine control system, I didn't bother hooking it up to the Link in my installation. The PS system has it's own control logic system and will taper out with increased speed. Also, I did change one of the resistors on the tach for my 2gr swap, but if you do an output from the Link to the tach, I assume that would work fine, but can't confirm.

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They are *mostly* independent and will work fine with no connectivity, but you can get some additional control of them via the ECU if you chose to do so. Factory inputs to the SW20 EHPS controller (that matter) are vehicle speed, and PSCT (PS cutout signal), as well as a PS pressure feedback switch that functions like an idle up request. The PSCT signal you can use to cut steering assist fully in certain situations (defaults to on, so obviously you can leave it disconnected if you dont care), and the speed signal you could modify if you wanted - the factory wiring on both the mechanical and electric speedo models runs the speed out from the gearbox straight to the dash, then a separate "speed output" from the dash goes out to EHPS, cruise control, etc. This is still a square wave output so if you wanted to "lie" to the EHPS unit about your speed, or you have changed the wheel size/gearbox sensor/swapped to an aftermarket dash, you could change this wiring so the gearbox feeds the ECU, and the ECU feeds a corrected signal to the EHPS unit + other control units directly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got back up.  I am pretty sure the voltage issue is just a bad battery.  I had the charger hooked up and it seemed all good, I'll change it out next time.

I was getting a relay error when trying to calibrate the throttle body.  I believe the AP is now calibrated and appears to be working correctly but it isn't controlling the TB.  So not sure what I am missing here, the tutorial on the software is certainly more geared towards an expert so I am struggling to find direction.  I had really wanted to get the car idling on my own before bringing it to a tuner to finish so I am not paying them double or more for tuning.  

If someone knows a good shop that works with Link ECU's in the Richmond, VA area let me know.  

Other than that I am redoing a few grounds and one last fuel line and hopefully figuring out the TB this weekend.  

In terms of how I wired the motor can someone verify the below is correct.

Transmission side - 1   3   5  - Cam  side - Bank 1

Transmission side - 2   4   6  - Cam  side - Bank 2

The cams are designated per the below:

Cam 1 = Bank 1 Intake cam

Cam 2 = Bank 1 Exhaust cam

Cam 3 = Bank 2 Intake cam

Cam 4 = Bank 2 Exhaust cam

This was the firing order I found online and how I understood was standard for labeling the cams.  


If anyone has any links to videos for first time tuning, I haven't found much online but am still looking to make sure I didn't miss anything.


Thanks for the help,



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Heres a diagram. Transmission would be on the end next to 5+6.

Bank 1 is the bank with 1,3,5 in it. In the link help files this will be the Right Hand bank. Other cams will be referred to as intakeRH, exhaustLH, exhaustRH. Left and right are based on if you rotated the engine to sit in a rear wheel drive (gearbox at the back)

Image result for 2grfe firing order


Have a read through the link help files for trigger wiring and config for these engines. You will need to wire+configure exhaust position and control solenoid if you want to control the exhaust vvt. The help files only mention intake cams so you'll have to figure out the exhaust side which should be similar. Remember only DI1-4 and aux 1-4 can handle VVT so you'll need to assign almost all of these pins to cam sensors+control (intake LH position will be on trigger 2 but you'll use up all the aux outputs for control circuits.) 


Regarding you AP/TP calibration, if you press f12 to see runtime values, do the AP main and AP sub values now match to within 0.2ish % and follow each other nicely from 0 to 99+%? If so then AP is OK. When you try to do TPS calibration do you get any errors? Usually if you have the TP motor wired backwards or incorrectly you will get a fault about throttle control not responding as expected, you then try pushing it manually and seeing if your inputs change as expected, then check your TP motor wiring + config.

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Awesome thanks.  That sucks that I have the inj and coil in reverse, I believe I did the cams correctly but I will double check everything this weekend.

Crank sensor - T1

Cam 1 - T2

Cam 2 - Dig 1

Cam 3 - Dig 2

Cam 4 - Dig 3

Exhaust RH VVTi - Aux 4

Exhaust LH VVTi - Aux 3

Intake RH VVTi - Aux 2

Intake LH VVTi - Aux 1

APP signal 1 - AIN 4

APP signal 2 - AIN 5

DBW TB motor 1+ - Aux 9

DBW TB motor 1-  - Aux 10

DBW TB motor signal 1 - AIN 3

DBW TB motor signal 2 - AIN 2



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For the E-throttle, in your map that was attached to the original post, you dont have an E-throttle relay assigned in aux outputs.  The E-throttle system will not work without this as its a safety feature.  Do you have a E-throttle relay wired as per the help diagram?  


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No I didn't have a relay, so I can add that in I paid for a partial wiring kit with instructions and assistance.  The instructions were mediocre the assistance was sub par and there was a few vital things missing like a relay for a E throttle.  Still glad I tackled it thus far and I want to finish it myself then get a professional tune. 

Is the Aux output any open Aux just labeled as the E throttle relay in the software?  And is the +14V Aux 9/10 going to splice into the Aux 9 and 10 wires or is it just +14v?  Everything else makes sense.


Thanks again.

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Yes, any aux can be assigned to "E-throttle relay".  The power output from that relay then just goes to the pin on the ECU B connector labelled "+14V Aux9/10".  This is done so that if there are any safety issues or loss of E-throttle control detected by the ECU it can shut off the power supply.


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Ahh, gotcha.  Excellent.  So I ran all my main power off of that pin already, just didn't realize it was also labeled as Aux9/10 power.


Will a standard normally open 12v 30amp relay work?

So should I wire the relay in for all going off of this power.  It would make sense since then it could shut off power to everything rather than just the throttle body. Is there anything in the below list that should retain power and bypass the relay?

VVTi power 1,2,3, and 4

Alternator pin 2

EB1 pin 2 (This goes through the main relay with a 15 amp fuse)

Diagnostic pin 12 (this is for the 92 MR2 old school diag connector)

O2 sensor pin 4

ECU-B pin 1 (body harness)

ECU-B pin 2 (body harness)

Wastegate pin 1 (power for boost solenoid)

I have both B pin 5 and A pin 5 together, since that is how the wiring diagram I got showed it but perhaps it makes sense to keep them separate as it would allow you to turn off only certain things.  Currently if I splice that wire and put a relay in it will shut off the main relay power as well.  But perhaps that is the point here..  Let me know what you think.


Thanks again, this has been a long process learning along the way but I feel a lot more confident after I fix these last few things.  It's been a long project and I am pumped to hear it start after so many hours of work.

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No you have it wrong.  Pin A5 is the main power supply to the ECU, this should be live any time the ignition switch is on.  Pin B5 is the power supply for the E-throttle Aux9/10, this should be controlled by the E-throttle relay, see the diagram 4 posts up.

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Well I'll run back through everything and verify it.  I'll be at the car tomorrow for a few hours.  I might be misremembering how I ran them, I'll be checking each wire when I get there since my instructions I followed appear to have some mistakes.

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I unpinned and put the inj and coils in the correct order.  The cams were already correct.

I rewired the power to include the relay but I don't have a Aux port open for the last wire to control it.

My aux ports are as follows

Aux 1-4 are VVTi 

Aux 5 - Fuel Pump Relay

Aux 6 - Waste Gate controller

Aux 7 - Tach

Aux 8 - Engine Warning light

Aux 9/10 DBW /APP


I am not sure if I can retain function of the CEL if I don't use one Aux for that, but obviously the throttle body is more important than a dummy light so I am ok cutting it out if I need to.  Wasn't sure if there was another way.


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2GR-FE Test 9-9-18.pclrthrottle error 9-9-18.llgI wired in the relay and set it up and it appeared to work but got a 80% error and wouldn't finish calibration.  I tried changing the inputs after reading some other posts but couldn't get it to run the calibration.

The AP calibration seemed to work just fine.  I believe I captured the log of it happening and also attached the latest map.  I still haven't touched any of the fuel mapping or sensors yet to calibrate them.  Just trying to get the e-throttle to work.  



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The throttle plate moved but only a few degrees.  When I hit F12 it looked like it had full power to it.  Prior to wiring in the rely the throttle plate would move fully but would fail calibration due to not having the relay.  So I feel like it should have power.


I did cheat and pull power off the relay block after the fuse rather than run a new wire since the battery is in the front and the engine is in the back.  But that should be the same since that is the power coming to the relay box as I understand.

How can I verify it is getting enough power?  

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I've got an ethrottle controlled k20z4 in an sw20 and came to the same conclusion that bridging into an existing wire near the engine was better than running a new cable from the battery. I spliced into the output from the IGN relay, so this still fed the coils but also fed into a new ethrottle relay, which then fed into the 14v ethrottle input pin on the ECU. This one has the biggest factory fuse so seemed like it would be the most forgiving to additional load, and evidently there is sufficient current coming through this wiring to drive the ethrottle correctly.

In the f12 screen you can see the aux9/10 supply voltage listed


If this drops a lot while running the tests then maybe you have a supply current problem. If this stays at 12+ volts, then you probably have something wired wrong.

disconnect the throttle connector, put a multimeter on the plugs that should be to the throttle motor, then click test again. You should see +12v or -12v depending on which way its trying to drive the throttle. 

If it only moves a tiny bit, is it moving the right way? If you have the +/- config backwards you will probably only see it close from its default 5-10% back to 0% when its trying to open up instead.

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