mjb214 Posted July 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 The blue light is blinking, with no key in. The fuel pump charges for about 2 seconds when I plug the ECU in. So that is at least one of the issues, hopefully the only one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 You must find out to what Aux output you are still feeding +12V when the key ist off Ignition ones should be immune to that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted August 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 I was able to get the boost down by zeroing out the WG duty cycle. It appears to be holding 6-7psi which is good for now. The car under acceleration hits a wall at ~3k rpm and just barely goes up after that. when we did it in 5th is pulled fine. I put every parameter I could think of and I don't see any limiting issues. For example at time stamp 20s it just hits 3rd and with it floored for 5 seconds it goes from 3k rpm to 4.3k rpm. The dyno came in at 339whp @ 5psi. Since then I cut the intercooler apart and deleted the plastic intake manifold and made the intercooler into the manifold. Second issue is at idle there sounds like a misfire every few seconds along with a high idle and bouncing revs sometimes. I plan to set up another dyno now that I am done changing things in the engine bay but I want to sort out everything possible before since it's a 3 month backlog on the dyno. I could stream data and do a teams call if that would help. Below is the link to the log and the map file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p7iw39-WjZm8o3QX28_wnYuQHohxu01a/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q7fpgL3YanhOk71HkajuQMilG2whIIhf/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 It is rich as hell in those areas, like for example at the 20 sec mark your lambda target is 0.78 (even that is very rich), but you actual lambda is pegged at 0.67 (the richest the lambda can read - so it is off the scale rich. So possibly just the intake changes that have messed that up but the other thing I notice that is not right is your intake VVT target table, the MAP axis only goes from 0-10? I would also suggest you update the firmware before the next tune as you are on very old firmware and there have been many improvements since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted August 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 Yea I could smell the richness and saw the AFR but was more worried about wasting the day at the tuner if something is wrong that i could address now. I'll get it updated, thanks on that. and I'll ticker around and see what I can deduce happened to the VVT, I didn't change anything on purpose since the first tune and I thought it was working then. I saved the MAP right after he tuned so I might just backdate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 I suspect the VVT table was probably always wrong and just never noticed. VVT will still work but you will be always operating in the bottom row since map will always be above 10kpa. So effectively it is acting as an RPM based 2D table only at present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted September 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 Ah ok, Yea Cause I watched it operate in the log. How would you set the axis up, the one he has by TP and the other by MAP. Wouldn't they both want to have the same criteria. Or does it operate fine in 2D by RPM. I always thought they were just controlled by RPM only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 Typically both would be set up the same. TP or MAP works but I find better control at cruise conditions with TP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted September 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 My dyno session is scheduled for Nov 11th. I did about 10 iterations of taking it for a drive and looking at the logs and leaning out the fuel in small steps. How does this look? Still rich but it drives without falling on it's face when floored. Anything you would change in the fuel map or timing? During the log I kept pulling over and making small changes, so the last time on the throttle was the most refined. I made some more tweaks but haven't tested it yet. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TX3LKYMq8NiQ4xqQ_t6kOP48UqmMyxBn/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jlKziHcrKNVSZWtQzzqvUqUSqBxWjlOV/view?usp=sharing I was expecting way more fuel required as boost kicked in, but it didn't seem to follow that trend. Is there something I am missing or doing wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted October 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2021 I have been doing some more road tuning prior to my dyno session to be sure everything is working properly. I am seeing the car hitting the MAP limit before the actual set value. In the attached log file at 4:47 timestamp the MAP limit activates but it shows a pressure of 24.2psia and the limit is at 27.0psia. I was looking to see if IAT or ECT would effect the MAP limit but when I graph it that also holds at 27.0. What is causing it to activate before the actual targeted value? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1blAtDJ_xAE1zpMkli7h2hnG9eOPvrYnq/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BB6TGB-5U1HiRzlRnEvL_KpeXdYY3Iyq/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted October 4, 2021 Report Share Posted October 4, 2021 You won't be able to see the setting if you have advanced mode off but it still applies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted October 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2021 Yea I was searching and some post I found said it starts to control ign at .2bar under the limit. That seems reasonable, I just was confused if I was missing some other limit. My next issue is I have the OBDII wired up to the Can 2h/2l and have a blue tooth dongle plugged in. I can't get any data to stream to my android head unit running real dash. I have it set to bluetooth in the realdash settings and thought I had it set up correct in the link. Next week I am going to borrow a friends reader and see if it's my blue tooth dongle or if I am doing something wrong in the can settings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 4, 2021 Report Share Posted October 4, 2021 2 hours ago, mjb214 said: Yea I was searching and some post I found said it starts to control ign at .2bar under the limit. That seems reasonable, I just was confused if I was missing some other limit. The default control range for the MAP limit with advanced mode off is 10Kpa. Attach your tune and I will take a quick look at your CAN settings. How is the connection set up in Realdash - baud and OBD2 protocol etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 (edited) Thanks, I will raise the map limit slightly and do some more testing. Here is the tune. I have the RealDash as setup for OBDII (i had it as link but saw some other post you did saying it should be OBDII). I'll check what the settings are and add them to this later today. Here is the latest tune I am using, I was trying to change the baud rate and various settings but couldn't get any to work. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BB6TGB-5U1HiRzlRnEvL_KpeXdYY3Iyq/view?usp=sharing Edit... The Realdash was set to automatic. Let me know if you can take a look and what it should be set to. Thanks! Edited October 26, 2021 by mjb214 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted November 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2021 Just got the car dyno tuned. I gave it another shot to get realdash to communicate but still couldn't get anything. Latest attempt attached if you could let me know if I am doing something wrong. The OBDII is wired and a bluetooth dongle attached. The bluetooth piece came with the android head unit I bought, it shows up as connected on the tablet. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sx2QtgtnbvrPJ46J5qdjyZrknfixaDy6/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 15, 2021 Report Share Posted November 15, 2021 So your OBD2 socket is wired to the round 6 pin CAN1 port? And do you have some other device that is using the generic dash stream connected? Can you give us a photo of the wiring inside the CANF plug and at the back of the OBD2 socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted November 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 The OBDII is wired to the CanH and CanL on the ECU main connectors. The OBDII is wired per the diagram with two signal grounds, Bat + and the two Can wires from the ECU. I was just trying everything and left off on making that generic dash stream to try that. So that is not in use in any way My USB is connected to the round port currently so I can plug in for logging/tuning. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gKmQ3nrHSkXphSYu50FkUm8DccCeZF5-/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gJgXASEv3rNaVHh4exIujzUPyIlVEqLU/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 17, 2021 Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 You have OBD2 assigned to CAN1. CAN1 is the 6 pin round plug below the USB port. If your OBD2 socket is wired to the B plug then that is CAN 2. So, you need to turn off CAN1, set CAN 2 to user defined, 500K, and set OBD to CAN 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted November 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2021 Ok I'll try that in the next day or two. I had tried both of them before without any success. I thought I had gone through both Can 1 and 2 at several bit rates and then started messing with the channels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb214 Posted November 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 It didn't work still, so I went and borrowed my neighbors Blue tooth Dongle and his worked on my phone and with torque pro on the tablet but not with realdash. I was able to get realdash working on my phone but the android head unit just wouldn't get anything. So something in the app on the android head unit is having issue with talking the the dongle that came with it. Go figure. Either way I am figuring it out, so thanks for the help. I might need to give in and not use realdash or buy a different dongle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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