928sg

Changing the duty cycle wont change the peak voltage though. The ECU will still be putting out 12v when in the "on" state.
Not that it matters because the picture of your scope readout is actually showing a 50% duty cycle 12v signal.
It says down the bottom that it's 5v per division. The waveform spans just over 2 divisions.
And it's "on" for 50% of the time and "off" for 50% of the time = 50% duty cycle.

The reason why the DC voltage reading is showing 6.27v is because 50% of the time its 12v and 50% of the time its 0v.
Which means the average reading is 6v.

I would put 1.8ms right across the 14V row and 1.6 across the 15V row, I doubt they will need any more than that for an NA engine and these coils draw a heap of current as you increase dwell.  Only add more if you dont have enough ign energy.  
You dont really need a 8K column unless you want to change dwell between 7 & 8000.  But it you wanted it then click on the table then hit the X key.

Looks much happier now.  Set priority to trig 1 but it shouldnt make any difference.  If still no signs of life I would try changing the trigger offset by 360deg (so make it 302).

Does the 928 have a cam sync? If it only has the flywheel sensor then it won't have a trigger two.
The polarity on your trigger 1 sensor is incorrect, the falling edge should be almost vertical and the rising edge should have the gentler slope. Swap your trigger 1 wires around to fix this.

Your triggerscope shows AC voltage on trigger 2 which would usually only happen if the trigger 2 was set to reluctor.  Are you sure it is currently set to hall with the pull-up on?  Might pay to update firmware too, just in case this AC voltage capture was an old firmware thing.  

Adamw,
Thanks for your answer, good advice.
You are very correct about the worn flywheel teeth, a old problem i am fighting with for 30+ years.
I have my own Porsche 944 / 60-2 Flywheel kits, a Pulley mount 60 - 2 Trigger Wheel and a 60-2 Flywheel,
same as the Porsche 968 / 60-2 Flywheel but for use with the larger dia. Porsche 944 Turbo Clutch.
Reason for asking is that i was looking to use the stock Flywheel for a cheapo Customer who don´t want to buy my one of my Trigger Kits.

 

The two with the 960 ohm resistance between them are your ground and signal.  The ground connects to the white wire and the signal to the black.  If you dont have any documentation to show which is +/- then sometimes it can be determined with a basic multimeter test - I will explain that in more detail below.
The third pin is the shield for the sensor pigtail, connect this to the bare drain wire in the link loom.
Multimeter test to determine VR sensor polarity:
Set multimeter to DC mV.  Connect the positive MM lead to one of the pins and the negative to the other.  Hold a piece of metal touching the sensing end of the sensor - something like a steel rule or spanner works well.  Quickly pull the metal object away from the sensor while watching the multimeter.   If the multimeter shows negative voltage while you move the metal away then the multimeter leads are indicating the correct wiring polarity (i.e the pin that the red lead is connected to is your + signal wire).  If it shows positive voltage then wire the sensor opposite to how the multimeter was connected.
 

For the main power/ground I have used 18AWG tefzel, but as I said above Im only running them at 8A peak.  If you are a high boost turbo you may want to go to 16AWG.
If using Tefzel wire, 18AWG is good for about 9A, 16AWG about 12A.  Low temp PVC insulated wire would need to be bigger.

That's a solid sensor. There are 15-20 cars local to me running the same one. 

have a look on mouser or digikey for honeywell PX2 or PX3 sensors. They come in various fittings including 1/8-27npt and pressure ranges up to 10bar. One of them is brass body and the other stainless but are otherwise very similar. Try to get the ones with Nitrile o-rings in them. Nitrile handles contact with fuel better. The spec sheet for these tells you which letter of the product code identifies the o-ring type. 
Dont buy the chinese copies of these from aliexpress/ebay/etc. Even if they are accurate on day 1, they very quickly (a few weeks) become bascially random number generators. The genuine ones are reliable howver, and provide good data sheets that are easy to set up in the link calibrations