Ducie54

Your TP main valve is not always going below your TP threshold. So not all conditions are being met. [/IMG]

Try doing the calibration in psi. Output Units PSI Output Value A 0Psi Output valve B 150 psi

Your engine speed ROC moves around a fair amount.

I would look at the earth connection between the battery and chassis. If u have a set of jumper leads connect from negative terminal to a 2nd chassis spot.

Can you test each ignition out put now using the test function, then by cranking the engine.

So using the test function on each cylinder there is no problems?

When you use the test function on cylinder 3 do you get spikes on the scope?

Use the test function. You may have a trigger issue as there are 4 small spikes on that last image.

Are you using the test function to check or cranking engine?

Have you checked to see if the is any damage to the ecu plug. Or best to power the ecu out of the car and join straight on ECU pins. The repair service has been good finding the issues ive had.

I would be testing the signal out of the ECU not at the injector plug. You would need to find a power source near the ECU tho. Then you can work out if it's a wiring issue.

Try just the last 6 numbers.

What HZ are you loging that parameter at.

If you have any luck PWM this can you let me know. I tried using a 100amp jaycar PWM relay but kept braking the drive pin and flogging out the pin locator. Current In rush from memory is 150 amp so wire it accordingly. On my sr20 when it cut in at 100% It droped rev's which could not be dialed out. In the end I used a soft starter PWM module to run it.

Things like this on the G4+ I can't see being added. I run a T1 race pulse dampner on my Emap sensor. Works like a charm. Cheaper way is to run different size line restrictors untill your happy with the trend.

Injector wiring should be ignition switched 12v, so NOT constant 12v. Best to take power from same location that power the ECU.

If it has an external wastegate is the valve seat fitted?

Could a blocked exhaust/ cat cause this issue?

Is it firing 360 Deg out? Add or subtract 360 from current offset. Did u lock timing when using timing light? Has motor been apart before?

Have you tried pulling fuel out. If your plugs are wet. Try a large adjustment.

Doubt it. What coils are you using as the ECU can not drive all coils and needs an igniter. Plug will show spark but will be very small voltage and spark. How do you have them wired?

I haven't played with one of those motors. If you pull a plug is it wet? Try adding more fuel if required. Are you using a wire in ECU. Reason I ask is ive seen guys wire in the cylinders in firing order instead of 1 to cylinder 1, 2 to cylinder 2 and so on. Also make sure your fuel pump is running during cranking. Check your fuel pressure is still high when cranking.

Check each injector and spark plugs is firing using the LINK test function. Start at the basic things first.

Things ive found. Where did you get this map from? 4d fuel table is on. Turn this off Start with a 2d idle base table. Change this. Add timing back in at cranking and set all cells around idle to 15 as a start point. Having cranking at 15 deg will not stop it from starting. Do a injector and coil function test to make sure each cylinder is getting the right fuel/spark when needed. To me it looks like its not getting spark.

Since they don't update there firmware close too or after the next model certain LINK dealers or tech guys should be allowed to purchase the rights to update firmware/software for themself or anyone else. Not everyone can afford to update to the newest model each time.