muzzytt

Yes, i joined all the plugs that have 14v+ so they all are powered.
Theres 3x plugs out of 4x(A, B, D) that have the 14v power and i joined them all together

I think the settings in pre crank prime would be the main focus here? 

All I've wired in signal splitters to reduce the teeth count from 48 to 12
So I've divided it down by 4.
 
I've also changed wheel diameters. 
Front 61
Rear 62.5
I need to work out the values I need to input into the software. 
Would appreciate some help here as I'm wanting to do some testing on it and maybe get it working for the nulon nationals at Bathurst this weekend. 
 
Cheers in advance 

Perhaps the definition of diameter will help?:

This is a potlical reply I expected.
"We feel we have a working and effective traction control".
"We endeavor to take all feedback onboard. But with all things tasks have to be prioritized".
The truth is the traction control is even worst then what I stated. It is only effective if you have the same road traction conditions. If you are on road with less traction your settings do not work the same. The Autronic will always give you the slip threshold no matter how the traction conditions change. If the Link/Vipec was an "effective" safety traction control it would give you consistent results. It does not. It is unsafe, and I would not rely on it.
I will make some logs to show just how "ineffective" the traction control is.

Hi muzzytt,
Thanks for the base-map. Can you also please record a quick PCLog of the problem?
Using one front wheel and one driven wheel will work fine.

Yes, you will need at least two for traction control (one on a driven wheel, another on a non-driven wheel. It looks like the device can divide down by 2, 4, or 8 (default).
If you divide down by 8 the digital input should be able to get up to 600 km or so.

Possibly. The problem with the haltech CAN devices I have seen is that they do not publish the CAN data layout, so trying to configure your vi-pec/link to suit is not easy. However if you can get the data then no reason it shouldn't work. Also other manufacturers produce units that are able to be used (Motec E888, etc)

I asked this once as well and wondering if the latest firmware updates have brought some solutions for this. When I asked before, the basic answer was sort of, not really. 
 Apparently the ecu is capable of seeing the signal and logging it, but it will only give you voltages and channel numbers. No labels, no scaling with units, and not able to use the signals for anything internal to the ecu.  There are many devices like that though on the market.  The SSI from innovate gives 4 analog inputs with a CAN pass through and there is also a 4 channel thermocouple version. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/innovate-motorsports-ssi-4-simple-sensor-interface-system-3783/#description PLX devices makes sensor modules that can be daisy chained together. This is the system that I have that I would really like to incorporate into my vipec and be able to use my oil pressure/temp and egt to trigger some failsafes in the ecu over CAN without eating up inputs I don't have. http://www.plxdevices.com/category-s/109.htm Haltech also makes an IO expander that has 4 analog, 4 digital, and 4 outputs that connects to their ecus over CAN. Megasquirt has a kit that is almost identical to this that you can customize. http://www.haltech.com/product/can-devices/haltech-io-expander-12/https://www.diyautotune.com/product/can-egt-8-channel-thermocouple-interface/https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/megasquirt-kits-components/gpio-boards/ I think all the motec datalogger stuff can do this sort of thing too that allows for usable inputs to the ecu...?      Really hoping that incorporating something like this into link or vipec is an option at some point. I need more inputs! 

Hi muzzytt,
yes you can use that switch, just remember the AUX output will switch low, negative so the positive needs to be connected to a 12 volt ignition fed source.
If the dash light is negatively switched then yes you can wire directly to that with the AUX O/P.
If any of these devices need power then use the AUX O/P to switch a relay to supply 12 volts.
If you set the Aux O/P as GP PWM you can also create a table with PWM values and create a FLASHING LED at varying frequencies, i do this with my SHIFT LIGHT SETUPS NORMALLY.
Regards
Dave.

Hi muzzytt,
as for the LAMBDA vs AFR simply press the U key for UNIT'S change, however this will also change all other values to either psi , deg f mph, etc etc,
Or you can go to the top of the screen and select the OPTIONS tab, then go down to UNITS, then select options again and change the METRIC from LAMBDA to AFR.
Regards
Dave.

Hi,
Variable valve timing really needs to be tuned on the dyno, it is the only way to truly know if you are going forwards or back wards.
When making changes to the target tables go in steps of 5 degrees at a time, once you see your torque drop off you, then decrease the value by 1 degree at a time until you hit the sweet spot.
You must make sure that your engine is also a free running motor, meaning that if you advance the cam timing too much that you have no piston / valve contact.
Regards
Dave.

The ECU would be capable of out putting out I suspect some of the information the unit would need like TPS and RPM but is also really easy to connect these without can.
Its likely easier to wire for no can as a custom CAN configuration is not easy if the required stream data is not available.