Brad Burnett

Yes additional sensors and data help. You do not need the MAF unless you really just want to monitor it. Car will run just fine with the IAT and MAP. Sensors that I like to feed to the ecu for better control and protection are: Oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, ethanol content, and fuel temperature. An ethanol content sensor will do both content and pressure. There are pressure sensors that will do pressure and temp also.

what was the issue with the triggers?

You will need to use a trigger pattern(both crank and cam) that is supported by the ecu for vvti operation. For the vvti to work, it will have to be a trigger pattern that is already decoded in the software.

Sounds like the sensor is faulty

Theres an awful lot of noise on trigger 2. Maybe try raising the filter on trig2 from level 1 to level 2? Is this a custom built harness or is it the factory unit? If it is still the factory original unit, you may want to rerun the trigger wires with new shielded cables that aren't 20 years old.

Could you maybe post a copy of the calibration that the car is running, and maybe a log?

I'm about to glance through the calibration. Is there any chance of you uploading a log of the issues occurring? Edit: Based on what i see in the calibration, there is still a tremendous amount of work needed to get this moving in the right direction. Fuel is not anywhere near functional. This is your key issue here. Try dropping the injector scalar incrementally. Doing so should richen the engine up and I believe will help with your running conditions. Also your fuel table needs a ton of work and smoothing. There is too much dwell in the operational area of the table. At 14v the dwell is 3 ms. Needs to be more like 1.8.

I 100% recommend adding a relay to the system. You will also need to use a switched 12v feed to the coil on the relay.

Pretty sure it has a lot to do with the OS. I have an old dell latitude d320 with XP and that unit doesn't show as many of the symptoms as any of my windows 10 machines do.

Just to add to what @Adamw posted.... If the idle solenoid is a bit buzzy and you want to quiet it down, you can increase the frequency of the solenoid. This is going to have to be a feel thing, as going to far in the positive direction can cause unstable idle conditions in my experiences.

Please post a copy of your calibration and a log of the errors. Also after every change you will need to store the calibration to the ecu. If the store is not done, once you key the car off and then back on the settings will revert to their previous state.

for further assistance you will need to post your .pclr file.

I'm in the same boat as the guys experiencing the lag. Whether it is upon first connection or when making large block changes. Only work around that i have found is knowing that the fault is there and being patient. I have mentioned this in several facets ever since they rolled out G4+. With G4 none of these issues were present. Pretty sure it is the software itself not the PC, as i can do the same process in G4 and G4+ on the same machine and on the G4+ software shows the lag.

The start up map is just that, a start up map. It will still greatly benefit from a proper calibration on a chassis dyno.

Please post a current copy of the calibration the car is running for further indepth answers. But yes cam angle test should be set to off. Only needs to be turned on when initially setting the VVT offset angle. The last VVT 2j i did wound up with a VVT offset of 169.5, based on the screen grab you posted, yours would be 170. Hope this will point you in the right direction.

please post a copy of your cal file.

Pull the number one coil out and put a HT lead between the coil and the plug.

Just to update this. Since the original post: New FPR fitted.... fuel pressure is back to stable at factory setting with no further pressure drop. New coils have been fitted with zero change to running condition. New spark plugs have also been fitted. Yesterday we removed and cleaned the injectors. Once fitted, will report back with status update.

As per the help file. May be better to use the bosch sensor.

ecu has two CAN buses. Might want to move the O2s to the second bus and trouble shoot from there.

Returnless or not will not make a much of a difference once tuned appropriately. Although i typically opt for a return system.

Ecu should be able to control the pump via a solid state relay capable of PWM. There are a few 3rd party devices to link egt to the ecu. diyautotune, tf electronics, ecu master, motec, etc.

Sorry, Yeah i thought you were talking about the lambda xseries unit, as Aem refers to their CAN network as AEMNet. Sorry for the confusion

works perfect. there is documentation in the help file.

move inlet left hand to trig 2 and change the active edge on trigger 2 from rising to falling move inlet right to a digital input