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Everything posted by ClintBHP

  1. Excellent read, perfect use of data getting applied
  2. 1) Any Aux out can be used for Fuel Pump Relay. 2) All Temp inputs can be set for pretty much anything, I personally always set Temp1 to Water, Temp 2 to Inlet Air All inputs and outputs of a given type can be changed to what ever you want, Link are not fixed like many brands of ECU. One thing I would highly recommend is setting up the ECU first and planning what pin does what, a crib sheet comes inside the ECU box for this purpose. You can set all the settings up inside the MAP and then terminate the loom.
  3. The output looks good, You can see the cam trigger isn't dead centre of the two crank triggers, although I doubt this will be a problem in your case its best practice to get this set correctly, so I would move the distributor like Adam mentioned so the cam event happens dead centre of the crank event while you are checking the timing with a light.
  4. Glad you have sussed that CAN issue, these things can be tricky and testing at times, have a great weekend
  5. You could try the Link 5 Bar calibration ? Failing that as it is a linear sensor you can use one of the simple calibration tables like Cal4 and set the units to Kpa Input Value1 = 0.5v Output Value1 = 0 kpa Input Value2 = 4.5v Output Value2 = 517.1kpa
  6. I never mess about with marks on pulleys, find your TDC with a dial gauge, mark the crank pulley and the engine cover with white pen, in trigger calibrate set the 'ref timing' to zero degrees and adjust the Offset until the lines you marks are aligned. As Adam mentioned your fuel is all over the place the Master fuel is way too low, I would put 16 in the master fuel and divide the fuel table by 4 as a start. Your modelled fuel map will never work as the fuel map would be a result of engine VE and the table values would be vastly different, so stay with the traditional MAP for now. If after the above things are still the same, humour me a put 15 degrees in the entire ignition map and try again.
  7. Yes I have seen twice where we have start issues with CAN that they were ok with a roll/bump start. - It narrows the search down
  8. Did you try bumping it or is it auto? 55 ohms is perfect, is it terminated near the dash end or near the Link end.
  9. Are you sure the error 22 its not also accompanied with error 56 ? Error 56 is MAP sensor at 5v Error 22 on the other hand is the AnVolt input has been above the error voltage, so if you are only getting error 22 then check the 'AnV5 error high' setting has not somehow been changed.
  10. Press F12 goto the trigger tab and see if there are any errors.
  11. ClintBHP

    Ghibli Setup

    Ignition Main, Dwell Mode, Mark, I tested it today works perfect.
  12. ClintBHP

    F20c trigger setup

    I am sure either will work you just need to make sure you set the static timing with a light, I have had engines (not Honda) with failed sensors one side before and just used the other cam and reset the timing.
  13. Then I would imagine the CAN bus is experiencing magnet interference from possibly something like the starter motor. Does it do it if bumped ? The CAN Bus is normally protected against this by its design, which includes twisted wire and termination on each end. Have you twisted the wire at about a rate of a turn an inch ? Does it run by the starter motor ? To test it is terminated properly using a multimeter across the CAN bus in resistance mode, you should see approximately 60 ohms, if you see 120 ohms then the Dash needs a terminating resistor.
  14. I would try changing the Transmit Format, the 'Form Error' shows packets are being received but without some of the building blocks of the CAN packet.
  15. Sounds like something is wrong on the car's wiring. The Link ECU requires that the Main relay's positive side of the coil is ignition switched, your Audi should be ignition switched, so either its been rewired or the alternator's diode in the sense circuit is missing or shorted. The reason for this is that the Link ECU pin 3??? is connected directly to ground so with the ECU present the main relay will be switched on, however the OE ECU will not.
  16. ClintBHP

    Ghibli Setup

    Glad the old fluffy stuff between the ears is still working. So the ignition amps will need changing as I mentioned above. PF10 is fine SEN8D is VR type, again no problem I stock modern injectors should you want to upgrade in either 550 or 1000cc I would change to a Link Boost valve again we stock these, they will provide perfect closed loop control. I dont know on the idle valve but again you can check with diode test on a multimeter. 01474 850666 if you want to chat www.shopbhp.com
  17. ClintBHP

    Ghibli Setup

    Firstly I am sure I have worked with this car many years ago if I remember this is the rough layout, excuse me for rambling if I am wrong. You have 2 Marelli ECU's 1 on each bank (the ECU can only handle max 4 cylinder each) each reading from their own 60 degree offset crank sensors, if this is the case, a higher resolution sensor may be better but not essential, the link will be quite ok on 3 and 1 cam/sync pulse. You may be able to put a disk on the back of your crank pulley with some screws, which you could also remove and the holes would be invisible. You use BLK3 Ignition Amps that have internal Dwell control, We use an adaptor loom for these that will take 3 inputs into a Link 3 Way Ignition Amplifier, so only 2 amps need to be fitted to the car. The Air (Weber ATS04) and Water Temp (Weber ATS05) sensors are all standard Bosch NTC calibrations. The TPS is PF09 standard 0-5v sensor The Turbos have AMAL valves 20Hz operation The Idle valve is from a Fiat, you need to make sure it is the type with a diode inside and if not fit one across it to stop flyback again we use 20Hz. The fuel pump relay is triggered from ECU1 I am sure the injectors are Weber and High impedance but check this with a multimeter set to ohms. I am right by the Circuit so your always welcome to pop in and see us for help
  18. ClintBHP

    Ghibli Setup

    Nick the best thing to do is use the sheet than come with the ECU and assign inputs and outputs to jobs , i am not sure what trigger the car uses but wire up trig 1 to crakshart & trig 2 to cam and use the triggerscooe to identify the mode.
  19. How many wires come out of your sensor ?
  20. Digital Input - Wheel Speed
  21. No need to connect anything on a B loom if you are not using the functions on that loom.
  22. How big is the fuel tank, how hot is the fuel getting ?
  23. I saw a similar thing this week, someone has been supplying CAN Cables for plugins but they clearly haven't realised the LINK CAN bus uses the opposite colour coding to ISO standards so got the green and white the wrong way around, well worth checking that first if using a non genuine Link cable.
  24. You can adjust the trigger in software through 720°, so it does not really matter about where you put it in relation to the crank sensor, the cam sensor just tells the ECU where the crank sensor is within the 720 degree cycle. So your first 3 teeth are around 30, 90, 150°'s. You should make sure the tooth is centralised between two of the 6 crank teeth, I would simply place it dead centre of two cam teeth at 90° and 150°................... so 120° crank. This keeps the trigger away from each other and also puts any sync events outside of normal ignition events.
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