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Everything posted by ClintBHP

  1. I think the V88 is effectively a Link G4 Xtreme then you can do the following: 1. Download the latest version of PCLink and connect your new ECU, upload your old map file. (this does not work offline) Upgrade the firmware Check all the inputs and outputs are set correct. 2. Always worth doing but should be fine. 3. You wont be able to run the car with a locked ECU.
  2. 1. When you say play, what ECU output (pin) are you trying to control ? 3. You have a Gauge, that reads ok right? You have wired the White wire to An Volt 6 on the expansion connector. If you dont have a voltmeter you can use the ECU, set the AN volt Input to Voltage 0-5v and check the input voltage on the configuration screen. If that reads 0v then humour me and try to move it to AN Volt 5 (the next pin on the expansion connector) and see what that reads.
  3. ClintBHP

    CAN dash setup

    Try this: Select the correct CAN Bus and Enable User Defined Mode and Transmit Generic Dash at 1Mbs on CAN ID 1000
  4. Support was closed till the 8th of Jan so are probably a little backlogged.
  5. 1. Your 'Engine Fan 2' does not seem to be set up on any inputs and is set to come on at 0 degrees so will always be on ? You have Engine Fan 1 and Engine Fan 3 set to Ignition Drive 3 & 4 2. Your MAP has the default Throttle Settings, you will need to perform a calibration before the throttle will work properly. 3. Your Lambda output seems to be stuck at ground, you will need to check the wiring, and if correct measure the output of the AEM with a voltmeter. What AEM part number do you have.
  6. Its easy to get bit errors if the CAN bus does not have a 60 ohm load, the resistor although should be applied to each end of the bus they can practically be placed inbound somewhat, the resistance provides a load so the electronic bus driver that helps it drive the voltage up and down fast without skew (the angle of the rise and fall of the pulse) The faster you run the bus say 1Mbps then the skew becomes more important to control also at that speed on a transmission buss you can easily have on transmission spanning 6 Meters, and thats where the end of line resistors help and it damps out the reflected data, returns it to ground if you like. Just make sure the can bus has a termination resistor on both ends or as near as practicle. The other thing is the wires much be twisted this give the transmission line an impedance and stops a lot of mainly magnetic interference.
  7. It might not be even into your fuel table, your pre and post crank tables if you have added bigger injectors they will need trimming.
  8. Think this should work: Setup 2 Virtual Aux Virtual Aux 1 Logic = Cond(1 AND 2) OR 3 SW Cond 1 ECT | > 55 SW Cond 2 | Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 1 SW Cond 3 | ECT > | 75 Virtual Aux 2 Logic = Cond(1 AND 2) OR 3 SW Cond 1 IAT | > 35 SW Cond 2 | Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 2 SW Cond 3 | IAT > | 50 Then setup a AUX as a GP output Switch Logic Cond 1 OR 2 SW Cond 1 Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 1 SW Cond 2 Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 2
  9. ClintBHP

    Mr2link no triggers

    Press F12 and click the Trigger tab, you will see if you are getting a trigger signal, maybe one is missing if so and as you know its working on the old ECU try raising the trigger filter level, by default the ST205 plug in is set to the lowest. Have you setup the static timing with a light, they are normally fine on the base Maps 15 degrees, but worth a check. Failing this setup logging and log all parameters while trying to crank and post the log file here.
  10. ClintBHP

    ALS not working

    Add Anti Lag Status to your view and see what it is doing: It will be in one of the following states. · OFF - Anti-Lag is disarmed. · Armed:AL Active - Anti-Lag is operating. · OFF: RPM < 500 - Anti-Lag is disabled due to the RPM being below 500RPM. · Sys Armed: Cyclic OFF - Anti-Lag system armed, cyclic idle is off. · Armed: Cyclic Active - Anti-Lag system armed, cyclic idle is active. · Cyclic Cooldown Active - Cyclic idle is operating for a set time (after anti-lag transitions from active to armed). · Dis-armed: Cyclic Active - Anti-Lag is disarmed, cyclic idle is active.
  11. Yes I know but it was unnecessary, and he has now lost the ability to go back to OE system should he want to sell the car or engine at a later date without buying an ever getting rarer engine part. All the WRC Cars I am looking after nearly all have Link fitted now, and I have also helped a few other dealers configure theirs. I know I am correct and I know what your trigger decoding is doing, it is not clearing the IRQ Flag on trigger 2 until the missing tooth on trigger 1 is seen again. The trigger wheel the user fitted is from Turbosport, I have fitted a Monsoon to a customers car with the exact pulley installed. As long as there was not a manufacturing fault the missing tooth will be in exact relation to the woodruff key on the crank shaft. Where are these massive errors, the massive errors I was told was from running the RS500 Trigger in software with the 36-1 wheel fitted, His post said above "I spoke to Clint at bhp and he said just set the triggers to ford duratec as that uses a 36-1 trigger and 2 point cam ? Rather than using the rs500 triggers. I tried this and it run better. Not sure what’s best " His problems are not the pattern but more likely to still be trigger setup in software, static timing, hardware or wiring. Given 20 minutes with the car I would be able to have it running perfectly. Work I do is never luck, this is a kit I sell a lot of and it works every time perfectly, fully sequential ignition and fuel, no trigger errors.
  12. It is google drive issue, you can copy out side of a google folder I wont get the issue, what I do as its a good practice is to use revisions when you save, I add Rev1.0 to by first file and increment every save you then never get that error.
  13. Ok to state again there is no need to remove the second tooth at all, I have loads of cars running 36-1 and 2 tooth cam, spinning to 10k RPM with no errors, its exactly what all WRC Escorts ran. You can't set this up on custom trigger as it will error on the second cam pulse, but the Duratec setting seems to not reset the IRQ for the trigger 2 until the missing tooth is seen again so in effect only counts the first cam tooth after the missing tooth is seen. You are more than welcome to grab support direct with me, instead of playing guessing games with people who have probably never set up a YB engine on a LInk ECU (no disrespect to anyone trying to help) Direct email: clint@shopbhp.com - 01474 850666 Attached a picture of a car that is 280bhp without a turbo running exactly this trigger setup !
  14. There is no need to modify the cam trigger works perfectly with 2 teeth.
  15. I must have taken the wrong email down then buddy, sorry about that.
  16. Did you email or ring, we quote same day normally, drop me a mail, clint@shopbhp.com and Ill reply same day.
  17. I do at least 1 Cosworth YB a week and have ready made adaptors for e-throttle, you can see some in action on our facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/brandshatchperformance/ www.shopbhp.com
  18. Same (ish) question just been asked here: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6288-obd2-bluetooth-reader-and-torque-app/#comment-50403
  19. ClintBHP

    E30 rev counter..

    ECU, we just did a M20 6cylinder conversion in an E30 4 cylinder car, we re-terminated the old ECU wire and rand the output at 66% to get the revs right.
  20. ClintBHP

    G4 fault codes??

    Hi you can find all the error codes here: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/ecu-fault-codes/ 11 =An V1 at Ground 46 = An T2 at 5V
  21. I would check your termination, the stuff error is often seen when synchronisation is lost and the main cause of this is improper termination.
  22. Is the sensor set to the correct max kpa? does it read within 5kpa of the internal barometric sensor, if so all good as most sensors are linear.
  23. Not seen one, just need to do it the hard way with 2 timers and 2 virtuals and dual tables. Would be a nice addition though, I do actually get asked this a lot from the cruise and show guys and gals who want flames and pops at the weekend.
  24. First thing I would do is remove it from the car, power the ECU with a good bench supply (battery is best) and then re measure it.
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