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iceman_n

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Everything posted by iceman_n

  1. you maxed out your fuel pump... do you use trandional or modelled equation ?? if its trandional your master fuel needs a lower value but thats not your problem here i just mention it
  2. hmmm something is wrong with the timing
  3. its 100 kpa because he change the axis setup just to suit in his application, so it was tps in the original map with itbs... i disagree with you, with itbs you cant hook up map sensor with corrent readings of vacuum, tps is a must for both fuel and ignition with itbs in my experience i have seen some applications with vacuum box on itbs but doesnt work right sometimes, the wave pulses make odd readings on the map sensor
  4. ok thats fine but the problem here is that its a totaly different thing to map an engine with TPS and different with map sensor....the alpha N method its totaly different than density method its not as simple just to switch from TPS to map sensor just changing the axis setup on the map, thats why the second map goes until 100 and first at 105, the second map 100 is the percentage of throttle the first 105 is the kilo pascal of air entering inside the engine
  5. there is no answer if it would be safe or not, you need to tune your engine and find out where is the knock limit, a map from another engine setup its just a base map for starting your engine nothing more also you said it runs ITB's how its possible to run ITB's and he uses map sensor for load ?? instead of TPS...
  6. maybe noise from somewhere interference the crank sensor
  7. iceman_n

    Blown engine!

    does the piston have ignition marks on it or a bent rod ??
  8. iceman_n

    Blown engine!

    if it sprays before IAT sensor....but he said he doesnt use methanos spray also what d you mean " Almost looks like electrical noise "
  9. iceman_n

    Blown engine!

    really i dont know, also it was under full boost, it start from around 50 degrees IAT and drop to 11 degrees really suddenly and i think it was the last full boost attempt as after that tps is at really low values propably it was the point the blew the engine that why you ask about methanol spray...its a reasonable reason for low IAT so suddenly
  10. iceman_n

    Blown engine!

    only at 7.31 has that temperature drop on intake and really suddenly
  11. iceman_n

    Blown engine!

    according to the log file IAT at 220kpa 7600 rpm is around 30 degrees quite ok in my opinion so i think advance timing blew the engine as the ignition degrees in my experience are high for turbo engine.... and obviously there is a problem with alternator and battery charging
  12. why on main fuel setup on active injectors is set to 1-4 ? since its a 6 cylinder engine...
  13. i have the the dead times for 3 bar fuel pressure...is it possible to calculate somehow for 3.5 bar fuel pressure ?? or should i use the 3 bar fuel pressure data ?
  14. iceman_n

    Poor idle

    it not the same as the vw 1.8 20vt, vw has vvt only enabled on cold start for emission and some models without vvt this thread here is for audi s3...its different from vw engine but in general is the same engine....s3 has the same engine as seat ibiza cupra with 220hp and not 150 or 180 hp as vw this came up from a little research i made but still not 100% sure, just saying....
  15. iceman_n

    Poor idle

    i believe that the wrong vvt setup has major responsibility in idle because full advance on intake makes huge camshaft overlap...but cj has right too about the 6% open throttle is too much... my opinion is : kill the vvt totaly..setup the car with nice smooth idle and goos cold start...then enable vvt again an try to fix it...it needs to be mapped well without the vvt as a good starting point some things must be FIXED to allow you to move on more proffesional things as vvt... also as the vvt still remains on aux output it will not work properly...it needs to be moved on vvt output with camshaft sensor along side with crank sensor or to kill it permantly...thats your options
  16. iceman_n

    Poor idle

    i am not 100% familiar with AUDI engines but from a little research i made its a truly VVT and not ON/OFF if its a truly VVT then you need cam sensor in association with crank sensor to work it properly...If you try to work it as ON/OFF mode from an auxiliary port then you will have issues as you already have...also if you try to switch from 2000 rpm you will have problems because if you drive under 2000rpm then it will turned off and fully closed then if you try to drive a bit over 2000rpm it will be turned on and fully open this will make a feeling of "bouncing" and stalling because it needs some kind of hysteresis to work propery that aux output dont have...Hysteresis prevents outputs from switching rapidly on-off-on-off as the control signal hovers around the switching point thats why your mapper as far i can see from your map it enables it at 1200rpm so its ON all the time from lets say idle until 5200rpm...as i already said you need to work it properly with cam sensor and vvt functions or just totaly KILL it and try to make a proper timing on your camshaft
  17. iceman_n

    Poor idle

    i far i can see from your map file the VVT control is OFF....so your mapper has wired in vvt solenoid in auxiliary output 6 without using cam trigger...i guess the vvt now works as an ON/OFF mode and not as constantly variable timing as it sould be and it just change position from fully open to fully closed and vise versa...it can not get middle pisition as it sould be The old bmw VANOS systems was ON/OFF... in your case probable the problem here is that the vvt changes the camshaft timing too much degrees as i said it only gets 2 postions fully open or fully closed...maybe it changes 20 or more degrees and that cause your problems... my advice is to use proper vvt configuration with camshaft postion sensor or KILL the vvt totaly and find a correct timing for your camshaft specs...i prefer the second method as its more simple and you can achive higher dynamic compression and great pulse tuning on the intake as the camshaft timing will be stable and always the same (as far the timings it make changes the pulse inside the intake will not be never be cordinate)
  18. except filtering you should use very good quality screened wire on this kind of sensor also Trigger Arming Threshold has major fact on magnetic interference
  19. thanks for the quick answer...just check the manual about differential trigger on kurofune...ok thats an option...or i can go totally standalone with just link ecu wired up...and i will use aftermarket rpm gauge but now the problem is that subaru 1-6 trigger pattern cant work without cam signal....so i need to wire up cam trigger too, i think its the same too with subaru cam trigger...i need to check
  20. Hello i am new to link ecu's, i am experienced but on another ecu brand...i have a couple of question about trigger type and trigger signal i am building a Fiat engine that trigger pattern on crank and cam is the same as subaru old models...thats why i am thinking to go for a link ecu i post a crankshaft image from the fiat 1) is it possible to run subaru 1-6 trigger setup but without the cam signal ? (i just want to keep it simple with wasted spark and batch on injectors) 2) is it possible to share the signal from fiats reluctor crank sensor to both fiat ecu and the link ecu as i want to keep fiat ecu to run the dashboard with the canbus etc ?
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