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mjb214

G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2

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Yea I did the same.  I had 12.5 when I checked but I don't think I checked while it was trying to calibrate.  I am 95% sure I got it wired with the correct + as I had the throttle open all the way before I added the relay.  I believe it moved from about 5% to about 10% maybe not even 10 then failed.  It happened in about 2-5 seconds from starting the config so I didn't have a lot of time to investigate and it was just me working on the car.  This weekend we have the hurricane coming (which canceled my lemons race) so I won't be working.  Next weekend I"ll be back up at the car to run any tests you think will help.  

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I was able to get a new battery and I think that was part of the problem.  From what I can tell when the key is on Accessory power is to the relay but the relay isn't switching on and says there is a error on Aux 9/10 for power input.  I took a video hoping to give a better description of what I am seeing in case I missed something.  I did verify it has sufficient volts even when the TB is activated.  The battery is brand new and had a charger on it during the whole process.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DRx1rvGfosTN0tBkcKLK4ZM5nA5ulATZ

Another question if I am not using all of the sensor grounds on the ECU do they have to be grounded?  I had originally had all of them grounded but I disconnected one of them wondering if it was getting back signal.  I also moved some power grounds to their own spot on the engine to better isolate grounds.

 

Thanks for the help.  

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The Aux9/10 error was caused from when you initially had the E-throttle in "on" mode.  In this condition, if the ECU sees any throttle errors (such as TPS not calibrated) then it will activate all throttle safety strategies such as applying the limiter and shutting off power to the E-throttle relay.  That will cause the Aux9/10 error and these errors can only be cleared by first clearing the fault codes, then power cycling the ECU.  So you should leave it in setup mode while you are tinkering.  

Your TP calibration failure looks like you possibly have the motor connected backwards - have you tried swapping the aux9/10 pins?

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This weekend I'll double check the wires.  It's possible they are swapped but I was pretty sure I checked everything twice before hooking up the battery.  The diagram I have shows Pin 1 of the TB connector to be V- and Pin 2 to be V+ for the motor.  This appears to be correct from the manual I bought.  So I will verify I didn't swap them.

 

Good to know about the error being about not being calibrated, thanks.

 

 

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Do the test below with a couple of jumper wires or something.  Im pretty sure Toyota use a different convention from everyone else in that 12V on the +ve pin closes the throttle.  

26PG4z4.png

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So you were right.  The Toyota runs it backwards.  It calibrated and appears to be working perfectly!!

Here is my latest map.  Any advice for preparing to crank it?  I still have to put in the correct injector information (attached) and correct the sensors as they appear off.  I finished my fuel lines as well.

I still have to make my exhaust and intake so the turbo just has the oil lines hooked up and is hanging in place for now.  I was thinking about trying to start it straight headers no turbo first just to verify everything works.  It would be nice to be able to start it to get it onto the trailer for when I take it to the tuner.

 

2GR-FE Test 9-28-18.pclr

Screenshot_20180805-115720_Chrome.jpg

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Heres one ive made a few change to. Changes are:

changed fuelling from multi-point group to sequential

change engine cc rating from 3500 to 3456 (as per 2grfe spec)

 changed fuel pressure calculation to use actual FP sensor instead of MAP reference as it looks like you will be wiring up an FP sensor

disable IAT correction - modelled fuel mode handles this anyway. WIth the turbo setup you may end up turning this back on later once you have boost + high IAT's to deal with.

set your fuel table to the one from the monsoon base MAP as a good starting point for modelled mode, previously you had what looked like a traditional fuel table that wouldnt have worked well.

changed trigger2 edge to falling as per link 2grfe help guidelines. There is nothing in the help files about trigger2 pullup on/off so if you have starting issues, try changing this and get a trigger scope to confirm what the voltage is doing.

changed base timing trigger offset to 0 as per link guide - you should run the base timing procedure with a timing light & fuel+ign disabled to confirm this before starting however.

Changed your tacho multiplier to 0.75 - this is the correction for if you still have a factory 4 cylinder tacho but a 6 cylinder engine, and assumes that if its a pre-beams dash you've done the resistor swap on the tacho itself so it will work with an ECU based tacho signal otherwise your tacho wont work at all.

removed the +4% park/neutral throttle trim. Note that in ethrottle configs all percentage trims are added to the requested throttle opening percentage - ie 2.5% from target table + 4% trim = 6.5%, NOT 2.5% + 4% of 2.5 = 2.6%.

Changed you idle base % table to sensible numbers for the above reason - 30% that was in there would have given you 5000rpm idle or something. This table is also where you do the majority of your tweaking of idle being a few hundred too high or low at certain temps.

 

I havent touched the fuel injector settings as it sounds like you have the info for the already. Check if the manufacturer has a short pulse width adder table as well which can really help with idle/low load fuelling in modelled mode.

Also note that your VVT target tables are both blank so VVT will appear to not work. I dont have example numbers for a 2GR but typically you'd start with what's in the OEM map if you have nothing else to use.

your 2 exhaust cams (digital input 1&3) have copied the 170 VVT offset from the intake cam. This is likely wrong but wont stop it from running. once you have it running, run the CAM angle test to find correct values for these.

Not a "start" problem, but is DI6 a speedo input? you need to set this to LR or RR wheel speed rather than GP speed. If you leave it on GP you can see speed in the logs if you look at this input, but it wont pass through to  the other functions in the ECU (speed lockouts on idle etc)

As previously mentioned, your CAL1 table for your oil and fuel sensor is incorrect and these 2 sensors wont read correctly. Correct numbers should be roughly 0.5 to 4.5 volts input, and the KPA output going from probably 0kpa up to the max limit of the sensor.

You need to set driven wheel speed source to match the wheel you set DI6 to be, then set acceleration source to be driven wheel speed. (under chassis > speed sources)

1544485703_2GR-FETest9-28-18-modified.pclr

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That is awesome you rock!  I had changed the Speed sensor before I must have been an idiot and not saved it, glad you caught that.  I should be up next weekend to upload this and start finalizing my radiator lines.  I am practicing my TIG welding the next two weeks so I can start exhaust fab and get the turbo actually installed. Once I do that I'll likely run no I/C and 5 psi for my first tune.  Then decide if I go Water/Air or Air/Air and weld up the intake piping to match which way I decide.  I am leaning towards water/air so I don't need to add a tank and pump and lines all the way to the front.  

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Unfortunately we have a bit of conflicting info about the 2GR trigger.  Our internal trigger documentation says trigg 2 should be rising, the eng specific info in the PC Link help file says falling.  Im not sure which is right but Ill try to test it on the bench in the next couple of days.  Also the same documents give conflicting trigger offset, the internal document says 145deg, the help file says 0.  At least this can be checked with a timing light.

I believe the cam sensors on these are quite fussy and need a well-matched pull-up resistor added into the wiring.  The pull-ups in the ECU should be turned off.  Info below:

S7ce0y3.png

 

 

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On 9/30/2018 at 9:14 PM, Adamw said:

Im not sure which is right but Ill try to test it on the bench in the next couple of days.

 

44 minutes ago, CDNMR2V6 said:

For what it's worth, I have Trigger2 edge set to falling

I can confirm falling is the correct setting.  The engine will actually run with either rising or falling, but the VVT control was not happy when set to rising.

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I was finally able to get back to the car.  I have not been able to get the coil's to fire.  They have full voltage and ground but when I put them to test I don't hear it firing.  Also the coils were heating up quite a bit, I would guess like 110F degrees to the touch which seems too high to me.  Is it pulling too much power?  I was trying to do some research but couldn't figure it out.

 

I attempted to take a log while the car was cranking.  Hope I did it correctly

2GR-FETest10-18-18.pclrLog 2018-10-18 test.pm.llg

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under ignotion main, change spark edge from falling to rising. Typically only honda coils and a couple other weird ones run falling edge coil trigger. The majority of coils work with rising edge.

This should fix the coil temp and the failing to fire.

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They have power to pin 1, ground to pin 4, and trigger to pin 3.  Pin 2 is empty but I believe that is just a error pin for the stock ecu.  I checked and the power and ground are both working, I did run the grounds all 6 coils to one ground on the chassis. The coils are the stock 2GR-FE coils.  

 

Coil.PNG

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7 hours ago, mjb214 said:

They have power to pin 1, ground to pin 4, and trigger to pin 3.  Pin 2 is empty but I believe that is just a error pin for the stock ecu.  I checked and the power and ground are both working, I did run the grounds all 6 coils to one ground on the chassis. The coils are the stock 2GR-FE coils.  

 

Coil.PNG

Can you confirm in that photo, pin 1 is the right hand end and pin 4 is the left hand end.

The correct spark edge is falling for these coils, if you’re coils are getting hot when the engine isn’t running then you most likely have the pinout wrong.

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I have the red wire (pin 1) in the right most part of that connector when looking at it as shown in the photo.  attached is the wiring diagrams from the 2016 Toyota Avalon (donor car)  B36 is coil 1 for reference.  As I understand this matches how I have it wired, hope I didn't misinterpret it !

 

Coil wiring 2.PNG

Coil wiring 1.PNG

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pin one is the left-most in the pics above, there's some more visual representations on this page: www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide

 

Looking from the wiring-side of the plug, from left to right it's - Ground, Trigger, Ignition Confirmation (not required), Ignition switched 12V, which matches the factory diagram snip you have there but doesn't match what you've typed about having +B red to the "right most part" of the connector

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You're Right.  I pulled my stock 2GR harness out and it's backwards.  That is incredibly annoying since I didn't do the connectors I paid a bunch of money to have the connectors and the wiring diagram made since this was my first time wiring a standalone.  And now I will have to check every connector.  

Thanks for helping me figure this out so far the two major issues were the TB wired backwards and the Coils wired backwards both of which I paid someone else to do.  I'll go through and compare all the other connectors to the stock harness for correctness and hope there are no other issues. 

coil wiring stock.jpg

Coil wired as is.PNG

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would pay to check the critical stuff like Crank and Cam sensors once you get it running with the build in scope, sounds like whoever made your loom isn't familiar with Toyota wiring diagrams and may have got everything backwards...

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Yea, I'll be rechecking everything now.  It's a good learning experience I guess even though it's wasted about 3 months since I can only work on the car every so often.

You guys have certainly saved the day so thanks a ton.

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I rechecked most things.  I put a camera wire down to check the Crank sensor but the wires are wrapped so I couldn't check.  The coils all work now, but the timing is off.  I didn't have a good way I could think of to hook up my timing light as I have only used it with spark plug wires.  Do you pull out the # one and put a jumper wire in between the coil and the spark plug?

Here is the log (let me know if the log works this time).  I noted that the Trigger2 for the 1 Cam Sensor was set to Falling and the help file says rising.  So I changed that but it still was firing way off.  It could even be 180 off, next time up i'll pull off the AC compressor so I can get to the Crank Angle sensor and check to see if the wires are correct there.  

Any other ideas I should look for?

 

Log 2018-10-18 test.pm.llg

2GR-FETest10-18-18.pclr

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6 minutes ago, mjb214 said:

I didn't have a good way I could think of to hook up my timing light as I have only used it with spark plug wires.  Do you pull out the # one and put a jumper wire in between the coil and the spark plug?

Yes, thats how you do it - a old plug lead poked into the coil and connected to the spark plug.  It doesnot need to be a great connection or anything as the spark will jump a decent gap, just poke one end up the coil and rest the other end on the plug.

 

8 minutes ago, mjb214 said:

I noted that the Trigger2 for the 1 Cam Sensor was set to Falling and the help file says rising. 

I think the help file is wrong in this case, CDMR2 above said his is set to falling and falling works the best when I tested here on my simulator.

 

10 minutes ago, mjb214 said:

So I changed that but it still was firing way off.  It could even be 180 off,

Your trigger offset is currently set at 0deg.  Try 45 and 145, those would be the other most likely values.

 

14 minutes ago, mjb214 said:

next time up i'll pull off the AC compressor so I can get to the Crank Angle sensor and check to see if the wires are correct there.  

You dont need to verify the crank sensor wires as we can use the triggerscope to confirm the polarity is correct on those.

 

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Great thanks.  I'll change it back to falling and try changing the offset a few times.  Glad I don't have to manually check the Crank angle, it's a pain to get the AC compressor off.

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