G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2

[mjb214]

After reviewing the wiring yet again the diagram I paid for is wrong.  Pin 1 needed to go to 6 and 2 to 5 3 and 4 were correct.  After re pinning it the wideband now works.

I am sure this is a stupid question but I could not find reference for as to how to start the cam test  so after googling and doing a bunch of other random things to the car I gave up for the day.  I'll be back working on it next week.  

Where is the test itself?  I checked all the settings and they appear to be all the degrees and settings straight from the 2gr-fe help file.  

 

I was also unable to figure out how to get the idle down.  I set it to target 700-800 rpm but it stays up at 1100.  It is running better than before and I was able to lean it out a little as you can see in the log.

 

I did not mess with any pedal settings.  I plan to schedule some dyno time once I make sure the car drives down the street without issue.  I believe he has a 4 week backlog.

 

thanks again for the help.

11-17-19 wideband working.pclrwideband working.llg

 

[cj]

Cam angle test is under VVT control > VVT Setup > Cam Angle Test.

Set this to each cam, 1 at a time, set the number of pulses (which will show up when you pick a test cam) to what you think you have (doesnt matter if you are wrong), run the engine at idle and press f12. Scroll the f12 window to the right with the green arrows until you find VVT. in the middle is a table of Cam angle pulse positions. These should be pretty much stable, and the smallest value is what you should have for that cam's offset. If the numbers are jumping around everywhere then you have the pulse count wrong so move it up or down until the cam angle numbers stabilise.

When you are finished, set the cam angle test to "off" again.

The idle target only does anything if you have one of the systems set up to adjust things to make you hit target. To start with you (sensibly) have everything in open loop mode. The 2 that have a big impact here are closed loop idle (throttle control) and ignition idle (adjusts ignition timing to push idle up/down to meet target. For now, just edit your "Idle Base Position table" down a few points until you get the idle you want. Closed loop control essentially does this for you dynamically once you turn it on, but you need the base numbers pretty close to start with anyway. A lot of the time I will leave idle control on open loop anyway and only use ignition idle for "closed loop" correction.

[mjb214]

Thanks for the explanation.  Perfect.  I'll run that next weekend when I am back at the car.  

[Adamw]

The correct test pulse count to use for a cam angle test for the 2GR is 3.

FYI, the help file explains the cam angle test process pretty well.  G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test

[mjb214]

Thanks, I was able to get 3 of them reading however one would not read.  I ran out of time to check for wiring issues.    I also forgot to download the ECU map before I left the car.  Does the log show anything that might reveal why the one cam still isn't responding?

 

1 cam not working.llg

[cj]

Nothing too helpful in the log. I can see Inlet RH is reporting "no signal", and VVT control status for this cam is "OFF, CAM Signal error". Looking at your old map this was DI2.

All system voltages etc look ok so I can only assume its a wiring issue to this cam sensor.

Was the cam test running during this log? you dont command any VVT movement on any cam.

[mjb214]

The cam test was not running during this log.  I had tried turning it on but nothing happened that I could see.  The angles were all 0 and it had the signal error.  You are correct it's the DI2 which is going to Inlet RH.  At this time I left the graphs at zero so they aren't doing anything I just want them working for the tuner so there are no setbacks in actually getting the car on the dyno.  

They are all wired the same and have the appropriate pull up resister.  I'll take the intake plenum off and check the wiring when I have a chance.  I only had a short time to get this done and 3/4 worked but I was in a rush and forgot to grab the tune map.  It's Holiday this week so I am not sure I will be up to the car in the next week.  But I will pull the wiring and check voltages and continuity as soon as I can.

[Adamw]

As a quick test you could unplug the wire off the RH Inlet cam and plug it onto the RH exhaust cam.  If DI 2 still shows no signal then you can suspect your DI 2 wiring.  If DI2 then does show a signal you can suspect the RH Inlet sensor is dead. 

[mjb214]

I was finally able to work on the car again.

 

I wasn't able to swap the wiring to another cam so I took the cam sensor out and swapped them twice.  Both times it remained at the same Cam.  I pulled open the wiring and found the wire broken, I fixed this but the error did not go away.  I checked voltage to the main wire and it was 5V.  Voltage through the signal wire was 2.74V and the ground had continuity to the grounds with the other sensors going to Pin A-24.

Is there anything else I could be missing?  My next guess was to run jumper signal ground directly to just that sensor, and see if that helped.

 

Also the car first start has trouble, I have to give it gas for ~5 seconds to keep it running and then it's fine to idle.  Only happens on cold starts.  What is a good change to the cold start enrichment.

 

Thanks again, hope you all had a great Christmas!

 

12-29-19 cam issue.pclr1 cam not working 12-29-19.llg

[cj]

Your post start enrichment table is all -20's which would explain the ~5 seconds of bad fuelling as that's about how long that lasts. Someone else had exactly the same thing a couple days ago so I wonder if one of the base maps is like this, or maybe there's a bug in a firmware update somewhere.

It should look more like this

 

As for your cam problem... its still showing no signal present on RH inlet cam.

You could run the same checks on another cam sensor wire that is working, make sure you see the same voltages etc, ideally one that also goes to a DI so you know the pullup on the ECU is the same on the signal wire. Specifically that 5v power wire... I thought these ran on 12v?

Its less likely on a low current circuit like this, but you can have really bad wiring that will show voltage etc on a multimeter but will not pass useful current. To test for this you need to put some load through the circuit and check for voltage drop or use a 1/2 amp test light (make one out of a 5w dash bulb, some wire and some electrical tape if you dont have one). Unplug both the ecu connector & the sensor, connect the ground wire to battery, the "other" wire to 12v+, then put a test light across the pins at the other end of the circuit (doesnt matter if you put the voltage at the ecu end or the sensor end but id probably put it at the sensor end to ensure you have the right pins). Then move the 12v input and the test light to the second pin to be tested. Both should light up brightly (same as if you put the test light directly to battery). If its really dim, you have marginal wiring.

The other thing you could try (assuming you dont have a scope) is de-pinning the trigger2 wire and DI2 signal wires at the ECU connector, swap them over, disable fuelling, then try running a trigger scope while cranking. This will let us see what if any signal is being received from the RH cam sensor by the ECU. Might give us a direction to look at. Remember to swap the wires back after doing this too...

[mjb214]

Thanks.  I didn't put anything into the post start, it was just whatever default.  I chose the motor 2gr-fe so maybe by choosing that it has some defaults that are off?  Or it could be I did something wrong since this is my first time.  Either way I will update the enrichment and that should solve that problem.

These are on 5 volts, and the one in question is DI2 I think.  DI1 and 3 are also Cam sensors but they are working fine.  The 5v power comes in one wire and splites to the sensors on it but is maybe 8 ways.  Only one thing has an error.  The signal ground is joined between the 4 cam sensors and I think a few other sensors and brought to pin A-24 Gnd Out.  Nothing has issues except DI2.  DI2 has continuity in GND to the other sensors and also the pin.  

I should be able to get up there this weekend and try to mess with the wires.  I don't have a scope so I may swap wires and try running them as you suggested first and then check for voltage drop.

I was playing with it on my PC since the car is an hour away.  When I change it from 3D to 2D the defaults all appear correct.  So likely I changed it to 3-D and that is what messed up the table.  

[mjb214]

The car started much better without any throttle added.  Still a little slow to crank, maybe 2-3 seconds before it bits but I am sure the tuner can adjust that when I get it finished.

I swapped the wires to have the trigger on the bad signal wire and ran the scope.  Attached.  

Does this help at all discover if it's a bad wire?  When I took the trigger scope it showed the wave form and I saved it.  When I open it now and hit play it says no data.  I hope it's there and I am just doing something wrong.

Trigger Scope Log 2020-01-4 9_49_58 am.llg Trigger Scope Log 2020-01-4 9_52_27 am.llg

[Adamw]

Your cam signal only drops down to 1V, the threshold is right on 1V so it won't be happy unless it drops further (ground is 0V so it should get near zero if wiring is correct).  I would say most likely either the ground is bad or the pull-up resistor is the wrong value.

[mjb214]

Thanks.    Is the A-24 pin the corrent pin for Sensor ground and how many sensors can be on that ground at once?

 

I'll pull the rest of the harness apart next weekend and search further.  I am positive it's the same resistor as the others and the correct resistance.

[Adamw]

A24, A7, B17, B22 are all suitable as sensor grounds.  The Link looms have trigger grounds connected to A7. 

Most sensors are very low current so there is not usually any practical electrical limitation to how many can be connected to 1 pin.  The limitation is usually more the logistics of how many wires you can splice together, I typically don’t like splicing more than about 5 wires with the automotive thickness wire or about 7 if using mil/tefzel. 

[mjb214]

I pulled the wiring apart to check my splices on the grounds and 5v source, all the wires were very tight with good conductivity everywhere.  So I cut the shrink wrap off my resistors to check them.  I know I got the correct resistances but the error was that I put the Trigger resistor on Cam 3 (the one that wasn't working).  Just as you suggested it was the resistor. Thank you for the excellent support in finding another gremlin.  

The car is reading all 4 cams now properly.  The only thing left to do is check to see if the boost solenoid actuates and then set up my tune session.  Along with a million small items to get it totally finished but that isn't related to the ECU.

Here is my latest log, if you notice anything else I can improve on.  It still is a little slow to start on cold start and doesn't start super smooth.  After a second of running it clears up and slowly lowers rpm as it warms up as intended.  

Is there an easy way to test the boost solenoid other than building boost?  I want it set at 5psi until I get to the tuner and then I will target 8-9psi for now and late raise it to 15ish.

1-12-20 working cams.pclr Log 2020-01-12.llg

[JMP]

to test boost solenoids, I just set the output to PWM test and listen for it clicking.  Depending on how you have the solenoid plumbed, if you leave the boost control table set to zero, it will run wastegate spring pressure for boost

 

[mjb214]

Thanks.  I'll try that to see if it is responding correctly.  Right now if the solenoid is charged it should show manifold pressure to the spring, so it still won't open until it overcomes the spring which I believe is the normal way to operate it.

The test you mentioned will tell me what I need to know.  The turbo is brand new so I am confident the spring mechanism will work.  The last question is finding out what spring is in the actuator and adjusting the preload on it.  Possibly ordering a new spring if needed but hopefully it shipped with a 5psi spring like I think it did.  

[cj]

Getting into the more picky things now as its looking ok for a "about to go to the tuner soon anyway" state.

1) your igntion table is quite conservative especially at lighter loads and just off idle. This will make it feel a bit flat and may make it run a bit hotter. I dont think what you've got is dangerous at all though but it could be better.

2) your ethrottle response is still a bit slow. It is recording target match errors some of the time but only in low quantities so again, you could make it feel a lot better to drive than it currently is by making the PID settings for ethrottle more aggressive, but its not dangerous. There are a few posts on these forums on how to tune this better.

3) you're about 250rpm high on your idle rpm vs target. your igntion timing is only at 14* which is factory-ish, or possibly a couple * lower than factory so if it were mine I wouldnt drop idle rpm via lower ign angles, and there isnt much wiggle room in your base idle target table as its all small numbers. I'd drop the ethrottle target by 0.5 in that top row, then bump up all your base idle numbers by 0.5 to compensate, then look at reducing the numbers in the base idle table by 0.2 to 0.3 at temperatures where neccessary to get down to the ~800 rpm target it looks like you want. Best way to do this is from dead cold, fire it up, touch nothing in the car, and as your temp hits the middle of each cell in teh base idle table, bump it up/down until your idle rpm is what you want, then wait until it warms up 10 deg more & repeat.

4) hard to tell from your log, but there are still RH inlet cam errors being counted. The value doesnt go up at all in the log, but it is 200+ right from the start. Your VVT target tables are both all zero's so we cant see cam performance when advancing away from 0. Put somethign like factory numbers in the target tables, or just say 10* above 2krpm on inlet, and -10 on exhaust from the same point, then run another log while revving it up and down a bit so we can see the cams move.

[mjb214]

Thanks.  I'll be back up sunday and I am starting to secure hoses and such to test drive line while in the air and maybe drive it slowly.  Before that I'll run it and walk through the things you mentioned trying to work on.

 

I'll log it with some cam movement as well.  I think the errors were left over from the times I was trying to resolve it until I found the resistor.  Next log will verify that.

[mjb214]

I was able to get up.  After sg hoses under the car in prep for the first drive I was able to run it.  As you stated I slowly edited it each 10 degrees to adjust idle.  I kept the idle around 750-800 at the end and I think i'll keep it here.

I put in 10 degrees either way for the intake and exhaust and believe it was working as intended.  The log was too big to post so a link to my google drive is below.  The Map was mall enough to attach.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-_DDuXrp7QX0QR5OgXlGV8oUfoOPTwAU

Any other thoughts?

2-1-20 includes cam movement.pclr

Next weekend I will be going through the gears with it on the lift to check the tranny and for anything rubbing underneath.  Then hopefully drive it down the road.

[cj]

that link goes to just another copy of your pclr file. can you please fix it up to point at the log file?

[mjb214]

sorry,

Try this one

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UvFXrHWviQozSUGRUXWELnU_ruJHPats

[cj]

Yep all vvt cams look to be working correctly now. Keep an eye on how quickly it responds and if it start oscillating on fast target changes. It showing a bit of target overshoot but you cant really tell at low RPM whether its a real problem or just not enough oil pressure for accurate control due to the low rpms. Might be oil too thick/thin or it may need slightly more or less aggressive VVT PID settings, might also be nothing. 

Its looking pretty reasonable though. 

I notice at one point your idle drops a bit low because your TP is about 0.2% low. It looks like your TP control is pretty reasonable most of the time in that log so you are probably better off fixing idle another way, and not tweaking throttle PID much more. Turn on idle ignition control and set it up something like this. Should keep idle a bit more stable.

[mjb214]

Thanks.  I've made all those changes and will test it next weekend.  My dad was in the car while I was watching the computer, the TP drop was after he revved it and let off it almost stalled out and then recovered.  Hopefully your updates here will help with that.

We found a leak right where the heat core pipe comes out of the front fire wall.  If I can get that leak fixed I will be putting the seats/seatbelts in then putting it on the lift to test each gear and look for anything amiss under the car while it's in gear.  After which I'll drive it.

I don't want to buy a new heater core, my plan is to cut the pipe, flare it further back and put a new hose in.  (it's copper) Not relevant to this discussion but this might stop me from testing it as the coolant leaks right above the battery.