gtihk

I don't think it is a wideband. I would change to a Bosch unit.

it is equivalent to 1.6 bar. It is not low boost, if it is pump fuel. I can imagine that the power on this engine must be something. I do not suppose you need to rev it high at all. May be around 6000 rpm tops?

I think you could do that if you have enough inputs, like in a piggyback type install. But, do you know the linearization curve of the sensor?

What is the maximum boost you are planning to run? I would not use a table much bigger than it is needed. I usually use MGP for fuel map and MAP for igntion. Just a habit.

Run it on dyno and listen to knock, if any.

You can lock timing to whatever you like. You need a timing light to tell you if accurate or not. Yesterday, I had a offset of -110 on a SR20DET.

I would use something closer to 30 Hz. Try that and see it runs better. Be sure to tune the wastegate normal duty after change.

A Mercedes part number may be A 004 153 90 28 64. It may be cheaper in some areas.

I usually run idle in open loop first to set the idle positions(solenoid). The warmup fuel will be set at the same time. Idle ignition then turned on and set. Finally, Idle will be set to close loop to test. Before you tackle the blipping, make sure that you have Fuel table tuned for load sites you would be visiting.

Are you using close loop control? What is control frequency set for the wastegate solenoid?

To be absolutely sure of the knock frequency, you will need to use Frequency analysis program like Wavepad. Guessing is a bit hazardous with Turbo engines. My feeling is that your present setting is not right.

One of my friends has developed a CAN interface box for the MY2008 Subaru Impreza STI. I have tried it on several cars and it works perfectly.I used Link Fury mostly. Please PM me if anyone is interested.

I have never opened up one!

Just press X and you can change there.

Good to hear that!

Chinese clones are not always bad but do expect a shorter life out of them.

Check if voltage drop is too much while cranking. You could also try to remove spark plugs to see if it helps with ECU shutting off.

I see no problem with that. I suppose you only want lambda sensor to be running only when the engine is running?

Would it be a 2 wire Ford idle valve? If you need some throttle before it can start, it might mean that you are injecting too much fuel. Try to use less and see how it goes. When the engine does not start, did it kick back at all?

You can use an external 1K resister pulled up to 5v.

500Hz? I have never used that low. I would suggest you start with at least 3K.

What frequency are you using now and with Haltech? Why did you change ECU if Haltech was doing its job better? Just curious.

PICO sells such an extension for COP applications to check timing. http://www.saelig.com/product/ta037.htm

Do you now have one fan or two? Which ECU do you have?

Is it a DI engine? Does Link support this engine?