SchuKingR

Yeah there is a bug with CLL in the current firmware in 5.6.8.  Attached below is a beta fix.
Please try it and report back.  Install this the same way as a normal firmware update, but use the browse button in the firmware update tool to select this FLM file.
Firmware 5.6.8.3670.LFM

Thank you for fixing the Cruise Light functionality, I'm hoping that should help with being able to change to a different E-Throttle Target Table to minimise speed overshoot when accelerating.
Plus I can have a light on the dash, too!

Yes, Ethanol, APS, and a whole lot of statuses from cruise/traction/antilag etc have been added on to the end of the existing generic dash stream.  This means older devices (G4 etc) are still compatible with a dash that supports the new modified stream.  The detail is in the help file.  You should pass it on to them -  I believe another user already has but I assume the more that chase them the better your chances.

 

Is now available on the Link website here: https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/
 
 Mostly bug fixes, but more complete release notes here: http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link Updates October 2020.pdf  
 

Just out of interest, what software did you use to layout the wiring diagram? 

Ok, so I'm having a crack at this now and I'm afraid to say after i've read through all the posts I can't get real dash and my G4X to play nice.  Can someone have a look at my attached settings and let me know where I'm going wrong.
pclink
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4a4g2pltsvqexra/Screenshot 2020-09-18 at 12.59.56.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/frkb559eput9qov/Screenshot 2020-09-18 at 12.59.40.png?dl=0
 
RealDash
https://www.dropbox.com/s/89klkszwey68n7g/20200918_130137.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cm08wflwosn5fe9/20200918_130128.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/16jmua8gagwy3uh/20200918_130120.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rq82l3mej8157mm/20200918_130115.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kxurp7zm28503p4/20200918_130111.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/39rtp8wxdq4jci6/20200918_130056.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/eb2uunte24l10ll/20200918_130051.jpg?dl=0

EDIT......

I've found the problem, the can USB adaptor had a really high BAUD rate that I had to adjust by downloading software for it.  I've now got the Link and RealDash talking nicely now
 

Sorry for the slow reply.
Yes, it looks like a bug.  I will pass it on to engineering.

+3
either via a "save all" button or by electing a Logs folder where they are all saved automagically.

Would this be at all possible?
Instead of having to save each individually?

Thanks Adam! The 1920x1080 one looks great on my XPS13 (3200x1800) running at 150% display scaling, just a few unused pixels at the bottom of the page.
That does mean I can drop everything down a little and expand the table areas so I hopefully won't need to scroll!
New G4+ PCLink version... ooh does that mean a few of the wishlist items & outstanding bugs might be included? I understand your primary focus is the G4X range, but please don't forget us G4+ people too quickly!

Hi All,
The default layouts in the current G4+ PC Link are pretty dated, I recently done a couple of new ones that will be included as the defaults in the next PC Link update.  But in the meantime here they are so you can use them now.
FYI, if you use both G4+ and G4X ecus and you have highly customised layouts, you can copy the same layout into both PC Link versions by just changing the file extension.  G4+ extension is .llg and G4X uses .llgx.
Feel free to add to this post if you have any layouts you want to share.
 
1366 x 768.llf 1920 x1080.llf

Ach na dann halt auf deutsch   melde dich mal auf whatsapp ‪+1 (727) 485‑6673‬

I didnt look at your .xml yet, but attached is one that realdash done for me to try.  This is for the pre-configured "Generic Dash 2" (same as Dash2pro) stream sent on ID1000.  If this works then you can compare how it is formatted compared to yours.
link_ecu_short.xml

If you had a spare Aux out you could do your analog input trick.  Connect an aux direct to a DI with a wire link.  Then set up the aux output to turn on when analog input is below say 3V.
The FD plug-in ECU has a zener diode and pull-down resistor added to bring the voltage down.
An easy option maybe to put 3 x silicon diodes in series with your DI, this will drop your voltage by about 2.1V.

The switching threshold on the digital inputs is about 1.2v, so it’s not going to work when your voltage is always above 1.2v both on and off.  I’m pretty sure the plug in ecu has a couple of diodes in series to lower the voltage.  I’ll check tomorrow and see if I can come up with a suggestion.