ZipTieTECH

Thank you!
 

Hey guys, i have been using a Link NS15+ mated with an AIM PDM32 for a while now and wanted to start getting into CAN settings. I'm redoing some wiring soon but the car is still functional so I can make these new changes.

I want to have my ECU tell the PDM to turn my fans on and fuel pump on Via CAN to the PDM. How do I set this up. Thank you

 

I personally used 18 awg (tefzel) make sure you wire it up on its own relay from Battery + not ignition, there’s quite a few noted issues in the forum about this. 

Obviously length plays a part as well, but for the 2 heater wires I would use 20AWG, 22 or 24 will be fine for the other 4.

You can connect both 5v and 12v sensors (and VR sensors etc that have varying voltage output) all to the same sensor ground. 
The reason to chose 1 type of ground over another is not input voltage, but more:
1) how stable does the signal need to be for the engine to run well (crank trigger = really important, any of the temp sensors = not a big issue if the signal bounces around a few percent). And as part of this, will a ground offset cause an incorrect reading that still looks legit. (eg voltage offset on any analog sensor)
2) How much load is expected to go through the ground circuit. eg do not use a sensor ground as the ground side for a vtec solenoid or anything like that.
As long as everything on the sensor grounds is low *current* then adding a flex fuel sensor to sensor ground wouldnt hurt, and generally anything that is an ECU *input* you would lean towards putting on the sensor ground circuits. But if you do see issues that seem like sensor noise once you add it, you can probably move the flex sensor to use a direct ground and not see too many issues. These dont report an analog output anyway so should work just fine with slightly noisy voltage/ground.

Typically for a turbo engine you would put MGP on the fuel table axis, (MGP is MAP-BAP) this will take care of altitude changes quite well and rarely needs anything more than that.
If you want something more user configurable or want to do something a bit different with BAP compensation then just turn on a 4D fuel table, and put BAP on one axis.  The 4D tables are an overlay so act like a multiplier.  If you have a "5%" in a 4D table it will add 5% to the calculated fuel, if you put "-5%", it will remove 5% from the calculated fuel.

UPDATE!
So i have connected my Racepak IQ3 street dash finally after 3 days of tinkering around with the software. Turns out that when i installed the program from the USB Drive, I needed to download all other data for IQ3 dash configurations. It wasn't giving me the EFI channels for the Link ECU configuration. I followed the steps on Racepak's Datalink2 software to configure for link (emailed tech support) and then i configured Link with the instructions that Adamw posted above. I have only tested water temp and TPS so far. I have not checked if everything else works because I haven't finished setting up the ECU. i need a few more sensors before i start up the car.
I appreciate the help!

Basic set up instructions are in the help file > G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information . RacePak IQ3. 
If you have the old dash with the 8 pin Deutsch clug on the back then you will need a VNet module - either 230-VM-EFILINK or the universal one 230-VM-EFIUCAN.  You will find instruction documents for setting up those modules if you google the part number.
If you have the newer "street" dash which has the 34pin superseal connector on the back then you dont need the VNet module, CAN H&L can be connected directly to the ecu.  Set up in datalink is much the same as the EFIUCAN module - you still need to set the ecu type to Link, then do a "read Vnet" procedure etc.

The ECU has a dedicated baro sensor on board this is displayed as BAP in the runtimes.